Trac-lok vs. newer offerings

[Flex BT]

I'm almost ready to get my AMC20 regeared from 2.72 to 4.10. My mechanic says he talked to his parts guy and was told that he has an original unused Trac-Lok that he can put in for $480. Is this a good deal or am I better off going with something else? I'm already stretching my budget as-is but I need a new carrier anyhow for the jump I'm making and I figured this would be a low(ish)-cost way to get some traction if / when I need it.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

TL is almost 1 step above open--
Look hard at true-trac or power-lock for your LSD.
Hope you are put'n in Moser 1 piece axles!
LG

 

[Torxhead]

I would think a Trac Loc would fine on the highway or light duty off road driving. When it comes to getting tires in the air and climbing over boulders, something stronger is required. I have seen quite a few guys having the lunchbox lockers hold up quite well in the rougher terrain.

 

[73CJ]

Years ago I put a new TL in and by noon the first day at a jeep event it was toast running 36 Swampers

Lunch box both ends for less than $480.

 

[Flex BT]

How have the luchboxes affected your daily driving? I'm a little worried about them engaging on exit / entrance ramps.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

LB's are lockers just like the Detroit Locker is-Just much weaker in design is all.
You still need a new carrier for'em.
Look into the LSD's I spoke of. AGAIN-Hope you are put'n in Moser 1 piece axles.
Do it once-Do it 'rite'--
LG

 

[Flex BT]

Yeah after some research I'm liking the TruTrac option although it's another hundred bucks. Seems like it would be worth it with the clutchless design + strength. I've got 1 pieces - don't know if they're mosers or not they came with the Jeep.

Edit: Only thing I'm a little worried about is how much it's going to bother me during routine driving, engaging when you don't want them to, etc.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

You won't even know the TT is in, when on the street.
Look at put'n one in the front also.
LG

 

[derekcj5]

Like he said above, you will never notice the lunchbox engaging/disengaging when driving on the street. Maybe in snow or extreme traction loss of one tire, but by design they don't engage unless you have major traction loss and torque applied during this loss. It can be fairly violent "sounding" but that's all I've noticed with a lunchbox.

 

[Old Dog]

As lumpy said you won't know the true track is in there. I ran one for years it's a great LS. and acts like a good locker as long as you have both tires on the ground.

 

[TeamRush]

You won't even know the TT is in, when on the street.
Look at put'n one in the front also.
LG

I'll second that, I've tried about every Limited Slip, and 'Locker' you can think of, but the True Trac is without doubt the best manners,
Especially in the rear, even on snow or gravel roads.

NOTHING works on ice or snow re-freeze, but the True Trac is as close to an 'Open' on ice you can run and still have traction without switching ends, involuntary lane changes, locking & unlocking when you don't expect it, ect.

I have one that is about 10 years old and it's never given me the first minute of trouble. I can highly recommend them, but the sticker shock never gets any better...

 

[Flex BT]

Well I dropped off the rear axle yesterday (have to do one at a time to space out the expenditure). I went with the Detroit True Trac and Moser 1 pieces along with some American made badass yaddayadda 4.10 R+P. My wallet hurts.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Well I dropped off the rear axle yesterday (have to do one at a time to space out the expenditure). I went with the Detroit True Trac and Moser 1 pieces along with some American made badass yaddayadda 4.10 R+P. My wallet hurts.

You did good!
Now-when you do the front. Use a TT there also.
LG

 

[Flex BT]

You did good!
Now-when you do the front. Use a TT there also.
LG

I might end up doing a full locker on the front, I haven't decided yet. My decision might also be swayed by finances but I plan on at least getting a TT.

 

[Torxhead]

Not sure about the type of terrain you wheel in Flex, but when cruising over solid rock for a distance, a full on locker can make for some pretty stiff steering. This gives an advantage to the guys with a switchable front locker. Here they can unlock the hubs or just deal with it.

 

[Flex BT]

I meant to clarify locker vs. LSD, I would def. get some kind of locker I could engage / disengage.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

The TT works very well in the front. I know several who run'em and they are very pleased.
Plus, you don't need the special oil additive for a TT, like you do for a clutch type LSD.
Remember KISS-
BTW-I have run my dual DL'd Jeep, over allot of 'slick-rock'(Utah)and never an issue.
LG

 

[TeamRush]

Well I dropped off the rear axle yesterday (have to do one at a time to space out the expenditure). I went with the Detroit True Trac and Moser 1 pieces along with some American made badass yaddayadda 4.10 R+P. My wallet hurts.

I don't agree with Lump Grits in this case, unless you are running a Q-track Transfer Case (which I can't remember what/if you posted that).

Since the front is UNLOCKED at the Transfer Case ,
And the front is UNLOCKED at the lockouts on the hubs,
A simple Aussie Lunch box in the front works quite well on highway, since it's UNLOCKED & DISCONNECTED,
And when you need some good traction, the 'Lunch Box',
With the engien weight on the front, will add LOADS of traction on the front,

BUT,
Get a steering box brace, and learn to use the 'Skinny Pedal' sparingly when you have the wheels turned to full lock.

Axle U joints in the Dana 30 don't much like to be hammered on with the 'Skinny Pedal' at full steering lock...
Big tires and full traction from a full on locker REALLY increases the torque applied to the steering box, which can usually handle it,
But the FRAME that steering box is bolted to doesn't take the added stress very well...

Remember, Jeep didn't use the strongest frames...
And big tires/lots of traction will often times break the steering box loose from the flexing frame.

In my experience,
Those big, ugly and expensive frame brackets don't do any better than a BAND CLAMP around the output of the steering box, (down to the pitman arm) and use a simple strut over over to the passenger side frame rail.

Easy to make and install,
And keep the leverage the bigger tires take to move from deflecting the snout of the steering box.
Just a simple bar strut that attaches at the point of deflection...
(Instead of trying to spread that deflection out over a larger portion of the frame like the brackets do, you are just reinforcing the frame, not addressing the deflection with a frame bracket)

 

[TeamRush]

The other thing I would address with a M-20/AMC20 in the rear is getting the tubes welded to the center section housing...

With 4.10:1 gears, if you 'HOP' the rear end, you can break the tubes loose from the center section (and it's common),
Then the pinion climbs the ring gear, and you wind up with the center section pointing 'Up' until the U joint fails...

The factory AMC20 housing only has one or two little 'Plug Welds' holding the tubes to the center section, and they sheer off, the housing rotates and you are screwed...

Some guys use a 'Truss',
They *Think* they are keeping the thin walled, welded steel tubes from 'Bending', and that might be some of it,
But what they are usually doing is keeping the tubes attached to the center section.

This can also be achieved with 'Stitch' welding the cast (gray steel) housing to the (white) steel tubes.

Stitch welding the tubes to the housing keeps a crack from running AROUND the welded area,
While preheating the housing, and controlling the cooling with a torch after welding will also keep cracks to a minimum.

A high nickel content/low hydrogen rod will also keep welding defects to a minimum welding high carbon to low carbon steel.

--------------------

When guys come in wanting an AMC20 'Built' to my shop, I punch the tubes out, install thick walled DOM tubing (no welded seams, thicker walls),
And weld the tubes to the housing...
Weld the bearing flairs/pockets onto the new tubing and they are off to the races without a truss.

An old lathe bed address getting everything lined up correctly and allowing for 360° welding, or any axle Jig should do the same.
Even a good size straight bar that doesn't sag should work to line all the parts/pieces up to weld.
This is fairly easy to do if you can cut the tubes/bearing pockets off the old tubes SQUARELY, or have the capacity to square up the ends after you cut the tube stock/bearing pockets off.

The only time I recommend a truss is with a Q-track or other offset differential housing,
And if you replace the tubes with something a little more substantial that's usually not an issue.

 

[Flex BT]

Awesome information all around, thank you!!