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Under Engine Cross Frame Support

Under Engine Cross Frame Support

Hedgehog

Always Off-Roading Jeeper
Posts
9,370
Thanks
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Location
Tucson/Marana Arizona
Vehicle(s)
-1975 Jeep CJ5, 360 V8, Headers, Duel Exhaust,T15 transmission, D-20 Transfer case, Twin Stick Conversion, Warn 8274 Winch
-1951 Willys Wagon, 4 cylinder, "F" head, little rust, very close to stock
Jeeps are odd creatures. Regardless of model it seems to be for no rhyme or reason some CJ's have parts that others don't. The example I'm dealing with is a 3/4" bar that is under the engine in front of the engine running from one frame side engine mount to the other. Some CJ's have them some don't. At first Rob thought that it was only on inline 6's. Then we looked at a few V8's he had in the yard. Some had the brace others didn't. So, since he had a bunch of them in a pile I figure, with any big heavy V8, why not, What harm could it do. Besides it would prevent frame spread under the engine.

Last night, well after dark, It's hot here, concrete is cooler at mid-night, I installed the bar. As I feared the frame had spread a little less that 1/2". My bolts are fairly long so the bar went on ... most of the way, I believe One of the nuts just might be starting to strip. At that point I quit. Would it be a bad thing to set up a farm jack across the frame, very close to the engine mounts to pull the frame together. Then replace the stripped bolt. With everything all nice and tight, remove the jack.

Other than bringing the front of the frame back unto the factory intended width and placing the front reinforcing "bar" under tremendous strain, at least until things settle. Is there possibly anything really negative that might happen?
 
I have never personally seen this bar, but I can offer a possible explanation. I know that back in the days these Jeeps were made, manufacturers had kind of odd ways of correcting problems that were discovered well after the vehicles had hit the market. A friend of my parents had a 1966 Chevy Impala. In the early 70s it was discovered that there was a problem with the motor mounts. Instead of replacing the mounts like they would do today if this problem were to occur, GM's solution was to issue a recall and install a chain that ran from the engine block to the frame to limit the amount of stress placed on the motor mount. It fixed the problem, sort of, and only took a few minutes to perform, and only cost a couple of bolts and a few inches of chain. Maybe this bar was a cheap fix designed to remedy a problem.
Pictures??
I myself have been trying to figure out what appears to be a pan hard bar on the front axle of a 59 CJ5 ! :rolleyes:
 
On some CJ's, no matter what model these things would randomly appear. Why? Nobody seems to know. It makes sense to me, especially with the heavy engines. I'll get out today and take some pictures od it in place.

You didn't hit on my real reason for posting though. Can you see any reason why using something like a jack to draw the frame slightly together while replacing the stripped bolt. I really think the frame and bar are tight ... I was under the CJ at midnight doing this in the dark, it will be another HOT weekend.

:) - Never heard about the Chevy "factory" fix. Can you imagine a company trying to get away with that today. "Sir, we have found a problem with your Widget, our solution is to chain it to the frame.", your welcome Chevy. :)
 
Sorry, sometimes I just don't comprehend what I am reading! :rolleyes:
I don't see any problem doing what you plan to do. I had to do the same thing to get the frame cross member in after boxing the frame on a 59 CJ5 . I used a hydraulic pull back ram with a couple of chains wrapped around the frame rails to pull the rails together a bit prior to welding the cross member in, so I can't see why a farm jack wouldn't work the same way.
 
I have used a hi-lift jack for the same purpose you are asking about.
Work'd very well.
LG
 
Since you think you overtorqued that bolt i'm sure you are going to replace it. Looking at my cross brace it came with grade 8 bolts, so I would suggest making sure you are using at least those. That high lift jack plan does sound like a good idea if you have one, otherwise use what you have around the house. If your CJ did not come with one one, it does sound like a good upgrade. Where I live it is at 102 degrees, I am sure its more in Tucson though.
 
To pull the frame rails in some. I have used chain and a turn-buckle.
LG
 
Yes, of course I' going to replace the bolt, no matter what. Grade 8 bolts are a bit of a norm for me, when the engine was installed I used grade 8 bolts. I knew it was a long shot whether or not the bolt would be able to draw the frame back together. The bummer is, it was so darned close to being perfect. I think it actually might be right where it needed to be. I'm glad to see that at least one other person has done exactly what I was considering doing. I was afraid that I might be risking putting a kink in the frame. Yes, I know that over doing it could easily do damage, but it sounds like a reasonable squeeze is acceptable. So, squeeze, remove the bolt, replace it with a nice fresh grade 8 bolt and a couple very strong washers to spread the load out.

Farm Jack, well yes, there are two in the garage. I haven't even needed to pee on either one to get it to work. :) Of course it rarely freezes here. My grandfathers old farm jack got peed on and thrown in the river more than once. After melting the mud off, how ever it was done, that thing always got the job done.

Edit: it's 110* 5% humidity ...... I find this to be a bit amazing. Drove the CJ a lot today with an open top. That isn't what I found to be amazing. It was the number of CJ's on the street. I bet I saw 10 CJ's all top off. I haven't seen 10 CJ's in ages.
 
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Both my '83 CJ5 and my '84 CJ7 had that bar, it my be something the added later on.
 
If the cross bar was installed, it is my understanding that it came that way from the factory.
 

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