Unresolved build questions - Engine Compartment

[mdeluca]

Happy New Year...!!!

Trying to resolve some issues in the engine compartment and wondering if you guys can help.

1. I'm picking up a new fuel filter and it looks like the fuel filter to tank line is hooked up to the evap. canister. The line looks like it parallels the fuel tank vent line back under the tub. Can I just move this line over to the new fuel filter?
2. Can I have just the fuel vent line hooked to the canister leaving the other ports unused? It looks like the port off the diaphragm has broken off.

3. The EGR (I think that is what this is) has a blank off plate between it and the manifold. Can I simply remove the EGR using some shorter bolts?
4. I believe Sensor 1 is the O2 sensor. Can I just install a plug in its place? I believe it is a M18 X 1.5.

5. Not sure what this is; looks like a sensor. Can it be removed or just left alone?

6. This is a photo of the engine compartment for reference. Anything I need to change here?

Thanks for any help you can give.
Mike

 

[Peanut Butter]

Let's see if I can help some? The emissions canister / charcoal canister runs from a vacuum line connected to the intake manifold. Any open lines will effect that. Here is what the canister should look like:



The extra line from fuel filter is a return fuel line. It must go directly to the fuel tank. There is also a vent line (green one) that runs from the fuel tank to the charcoal canister. This is different from the return line. I would suggest that you replace the charcoal canister (about $35). There are threads about what one to look for on this forum.


If the EGR valve truly has a plate behind it then yes you can just use shorter bolts. There are different opinions are keeping or blocking off the EGR valve. A forum search will yield those results.

O2 sensor, make sure that is what this is. It's hard to tell from the picture, but there are vacuum switches that are a part of the emission control system under the manifolds. There are screwed into the block. An O2 sensor screws into the exhaust. Yes these can be plugged.

The third picture looks like the Oil Pressure sensor, but it's hard to make out in the picture. These are usually located between the Distributor and the bell housing on the engine block.

Last picture, no. The PVC valve needs to vent to the bottom of the carburetor. The rear hose is a vent hose. These usually go to the air cleaner, but some people use a filtered Vent cap instead.

Hope this helps some.

 

[mdeluca]

Let's see if I can help some? The emissions canister / charcoal canister runs from a vacuum line connected to the intake manifold. Any open lines will effect that. Here is what the canister should look like:



The extra line from fuel filter is a return fuel line. It must go directly to the fuel tank. There is also a vent line (green one) that runs from the fuel tank to the charcoal canister. This is different from the return line. I would suggest that you replace the charcoal canister (about $35). There are threads about what one to look for on this forum.


If the EGR valve truly has a plate behind it then yes you can just use shorter bolts. There are different opinions are keeping or blocking off the EGR valve. A forum search will yield those results.

O2 sensor, make sure that is what this is. It's hard to tell from the picture, but there are vacuum switches that are a part of the emission control system under the manifolds. There are screwed into the block. An O2 sensor screws into the exhaust. Yes these can be plugged.

The third picture looks like the Oil Pressure sensor, but it's hard to make out in the picture. These are usually located between the Distributor and the bell housing on the engine block.

Last picture, no. The PVC valve needs to vent to the bottom of the carburetor. The rear hose is a vent hose. These usually go to the air cleaner, but some people use a filtered Vent cap instead.

Hope this helps some.

Thanks... yes it helps a lot.

I'll get some better pictures of the passenger side on that sensor.

The EGR does have a plate, so I'll remove it... have to get some bolts.

The O2 sensor is definitely on the exhaust manifold... so I'll remove it. Ordered a plug.

I picked up the fuel filter, fuel line (5/16" and 1/4") and will get that hooked up today.

I also ordered a crankcase breather for the valve cover... will have to plug the hole in the air cleaner.

**********************

So the big question is the evap. canister. I've reviewed all the threads I can find on it (here and elsewhere) and they all refer to a replacement that is also no longer available.

I don't need to run the purge valve to the Weber carb. so it looks like I don't need one with the diaphragm.

Question: are the other three ports passive, i.e., no valving; just a port to the charcoal media? If so, then I can hook up the other three and be done with it according to your diagram.

 

[Torxhead]

Have you looked at this site yet?:Jeep Adventures Under the Hood
The later CJs are a real mess under the hood with all the emissions stuff. I would also suggest the M.R. 252 factory service manual.

 

[mdeluca]

Have you looked at this site yet?:Jeep Adventures Under the Hood
The later CJs are a real mess under the hood with all the emissions stuff. I would also suggest the M.R. 252 factory service manual.

Yes, thanks. Doesn't really help with the discontinued canister. Great site though.

 

[Torxhead]

Cannisters can be rebuilt or this is the common replacement:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DC9ZA0/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There is a webpage somewhere on just how to set it up in a CJ.
Edit: found it-http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=106051

 

[mdeluca]

Cannisters can be rebuilt or this is the common replacement:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DC9ZA0/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There is a webpage somewhere on just how to set it up in a CJ.
Edit: found it-http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=106051

Thanks... I've read that thread. Unfortunately, that canister is no longer available.

I have a broken port on mine, so I need to find a replacement.

 

[Peanut Butter]

Thanks... I've read that thread. Unfortunately, that canister is no longer available.

I have a broken port on mine, so I need to find a replacement.

Use the web link on the article. The NAPA part number is good at $41.99 on line. If that one is discontinued, I'm sure NAPA has a replacement number. Here is another one I found on line for $95 ACDelco Fuel Vapor Canister, DEL215-57

 

[Lumpy Grits]

If just the plastic hose nipple on the canister has broken off. You can drill the fitting out for a section of metal tubing, and glue that in place.
LG

 

[yellow85cj]

In pic 5, the bell shaped piece is the oil pressure gauge sender.

The two pronged part the arrow is pointing to is a pressure controlled relay. Circuit closes as soon as oil pressure is up. It controls the manifold heater relay and choke.

BTW, is that your engine bay? Does the CJ ever leave the garage? It sure is purdy.

 

[yellow85cj]

If you ever have trouble with your heater or overheating, you may want to replace that hose to the manifold. It looks as though it may be higher than the radiator and cause air to be trapped in the system and poor circulation.

I couldn't find the proper hose for a CJ (90 degree bends at each end) but there is a Ford IIRC hater hose tha I cut off after the bend and worked and looked as OEM. Will have to look for the part number.

 

[yellow85cj]

On the EGR valve, all have a very thin piece of metal between the valve and manifold. It will have a small hole in it where an arm moves in and out to control the flow of gas. If what you have is this thin piece, plan on making a plate. Can't remember if there is a gasket. I used a piece of 3/16 or 1/4 plate.

 

[mdeluca]

Use the web link on the article. The NAPA part number is good at $41.99 on line. If that one is discontinued, I'm sure NAPA has a replacement number. Here is another one I found on line for $95 ACDelco Fuel Vapor Canister, DEL215-57

Discontinued... Don't want to experiment with $95 until I know how the internals work.

If just the plastic hose nipple on the canister has broken off. You can drill the fitting out for a section of metal tubing, and glue that in place.
LG

Excellent...! I may just end up rebuilding mine for a few bucks. I think I'll just run the fuel tank vent to the canister and then vent the canister back to the motor somewhere. The other two ports will be plugged.

Hell, I may just remove the whole damned thing and buy a vented gas cap.

In pic 5, the bell shaped piece is the oil pressure gauge sender.

The two pronged part the arrow is pointing to is a pressure controlled relay. Circuit closes as soon as oil pressure is up. It controls the manifold heater relay and choke.

BTW, is that your engine bay? Does the CJ ever leave the garage? It sure is purdy.

That engine bay has 10 miles on it. The 10 miles I drove home from the paint shop a couple of weeks ago. Sure is nice to work on right now... lol

I don't know about a manifold heater, obviously not hooked up.

My electric choke is functioning on the Weber, but is hooked to a wire coming off the loom on the firewall (obviously not hooked up to the pressure switch). I guess that wire could be coming from the relay which is not getting a signal from the pressure switch. Not sure why the choke is working then.

If you ever have trouble with your heater or overheating, you may want to replace that hose to the manifold. It looks as though it may be higher than the radiator and cause air to be trapped in the system and poor circulation.

I couldn't find the proper hose for a CJ (90 degree bends at each end) but there is a Ford IIRC hater hose tha I cut off after the bend and worked and looked as OEM. Will have to look for the part number.

Thanks for pointing that out. I've done research and it seems this hose doesn't exist, as you mention. I did find the following on another forum and will probably try it. Looks like I might have to splice two together to get the bend at each end or, if the manifold is threaded, install a 90 degree hard bend. May buy two hoses and splice since my manifold port is straight.
****************

Gates #28467 (4" x 12") 5/8" ID x 5/8" ID (Shown)
Gates #28468 (4" x 18") 5/8" ID x 5/8" ID

Another thought is to use the hose I have and install a couple of Gates Unicoils.
****************

On the EGR valve, all have a very thin piece of metal between the valve and manifold. It will have a small hole in it where an arm moves in and out to control the flow of gas. If what you have is this thin piece, plan on making a plate. Can't remember if there is a gasket. I used a piece of 3/16 or 1/4 plate.

I saw Adam make and install the blank plate. It is 1/8" to 3/16" plate by eye. There is a gasket between the manifold and the plate. Did not gasket between the plate and the EGR.

*************************************
What I was able to accomplish since last post:
• Replaced all of the worm gear fuel line clamps with fuel injection hose clamps. Didn't like the way the worm clamps tear up the rubber.
• Installed a proper Purolator fuel filter and connected it to the fuel tank return line with new hose.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Make sure you have the fuel filter return line at the 12 o'clock position.
LG

 

[yellow85cj]

Pretty sure this is the hose I used on mine. Just cut off the "U" shaped end.

Gates part number 18763.


Pic from Ken4444

Here's what it looked like installed. My "elbow" fitting on the manifold was rusted out so I replaced it with a straight one. But hose should still be fine with elbow. Thought about using brass pipe and elbow to make a new fitting but didn't think the "steam punk" look was appropriate. That and don't know if aluminium and brass get along.

 

[mdeluca]

Make sure you have the fuel filter return line at the 12 o'clock position.
LG

Done... thanks.

Pretty sure this is the hose I used on mine. Just cut off the "U" shaped end.

Gates part number 18763.

I'm going to order this one. Looks like a good fit. I've got the straight nipple, so mine will end up like yours. Thanks for all of the pics!!!

 

[yellow85cj]

BTW - you do know you are missing the coolant overflow tank.

 

[mdeluca]

BTW - you do know you are missing the coolant overflow tank.

Yeah, thanks. It isn't a recovery tank anyway so I'm thinking I'll just run a line to the ground... unless I can find a tank.

 

[Belizean]

Yeah, thanks. It isn't a recovery tank anyway so I'm thinking I'll just run a line to the ground... unless I can find a tank.

Maybe it's just me but I'm thinking you're going to need that coolant tank. I found one a few years back and it worked.

 

[Belizean]

Pretty sure this is the hose I used on mine. Just cut off the "U" shaped end.

Gates part number 18763.


Pic from Ken4444

Here's what it looked like installed. My "elbow" fitting on the manifold was rusted out so I replaced it with a straight one. But hose should still be fine with elbow. Thought about using brass pipe and elbow to make a new fitting but didn't think the "steam punk" look was appropriate. That and don't know if aluminium and brass get along.

Thanks Yellow 85 for the gates number