Electrical Upgrade/Adjust Fuel Sending Unit
TSB8C
Old Time Jeeper
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- 1984 CJ7, 420 HP "ZZ6 EFI" Crate engine, 700R4, D300, Dana30 front, Dana489 rear, 4.56 gears, 4" lift
So I started noticing my fuel gauge acting weird. I have a Dakota Digital gauge setup, so I knew it wasn't the gauge. Attention turned to the fuel level sending unit in the tank. I put in a new Crown unit about 4 years ago when I started this build, including an electric in-tank pump for my fuel injected engine. So a bit disappointing to start having issues with the sending unit after only 4 years. Thankfully I had made a cutout panel in the floor to access the tank opening without dropping the tank. So an easy-peasy work effort at least.
Once I removed the fuel level/pump assembly from the tank, I immediately saw the issue. The cheap Crown plastic float had gas inside it. There is a small pin hole or hairline crack somewhere that is letting fuel seep in. Strange however that squeezing the float wouldn't force any gas back out so I could see the hole or crack. Nevertheless, it has to go.
So I ordered a brass float, Scott Drake Part # C0AZ-9202-B off Amazon for about $8. This is an exact size and shape replacement that clips right into the float arm loop on the Crown assembly.
And while I had it out, I double checked the resistance readings using my multimeter to ensure that the adjusting tabs on the assembly were set correctly so that full and empty (the full travel of the float arm) gave the proper readings. These stop tabs are easily bent slightly left or right with some pliers to allow or restrict how far the float arm can travel at both extremes (empty and full).
With the new float clipped in and the tabs adjusted and the readings verified, all ready to go back in.
For anyone interested, that's a Walbro GSS342-400-791 electric pump supplying the 58psi for the engine. It comes with the rubber isolator (for sound) and the intake filter on the bottom. Just remove the stock sock filter and cut the pickup tube to length, put some rubber fuel line and clamps rated for fuel injection using a length that lets the new filter sit 1/4 inch or so off the tank bottom.

Once I removed the fuel level/pump assembly from the tank, I immediately saw the issue. The cheap Crown plastic float had gas inside it. There is a small pin hole or hairline crack somewhere that is letting fuel seep in. Strange however that squeezing the float wouldn't force any gas back out so I could see the hole or crack. Nevertheless, it has to go.

So I ordered a brass float, Scott Drake Part # C0AZ-9202-B off Amazon for about $8. This is an exact size and shape replacement that clips right into the float arm loop on the Crown assembly.

And while I had it out, I double checked the resistance readings using my multimeter to ensure that the adjusting tabs on the assembly were set correctly so that full and empty (the full travel of the float arm) gave the proper readings. These stop tabs are easily bent slightly left or right with some pliers to allow or restrict how far the float arm can travel at both extremes (empty and full).



With the new float clipped in and the tabs adjusted and the readings verified, all ready to go back in.
