V8 install tips.

[Deerejeep]

Dropping in the 360 tomorrow.

Hardware is loose.
Mount engine brackets on block first.
Keep a big strap on the rear of engine to help position.
Hardware torqued to 45 ft lbs.
loc time bolts
tools set out.
Buddy to help (newbie too)
Mounts in front mounting holes on frame.
Grade 5 or 8 hardware?

Talk me of the ledge. What else do I need to know?

 

[CABBOTT]

Have you pulled the fenders and front off? I prefer to take the time and go that route but that's just a personal preference And I like grade 5 hardware for mounting for three reasons, it's cheap, it works, and it's easier to get out if it breaks

 

[Deerejeep]

Have you pulled the fenders and front off? I prefer to take the time and go that route but that's just a personal preference And I like grade 5 hardware for mounting for three reasons, it's cheap, it works, and it's easier to get out if it breaks

Whole front end is off. Clear shot. Appreciate the help! Grade 5 is certainly easier to come by.

 

[dabbrowne]

Good Luck. Motor looks great, send more pictures.

 

[Dan86CJ7]

Motor looks great, send more pictures.

 

[harleydragon]

most important thing in my opinion is to get it perfectly straight in the frame

 

[jdarg]

If the Jeep is otherwise assembled and sitting on its tires I'd do it w/ the Transmission mounted to the motor already, since its all out anyways, I assume. Should have plenty of room to work. You probably can even get the Transfer Case bolted on the end and still easily fit it all in there. This way you are messing around in the Limited space underneath it considerably less, which always seems to save time and a little (or a lot) frustration, unless you have a vehicle lift in your garage or something.

I've put v8+ax15+231 in my YJ a couple of times, bolted together, w/ no helper except my engine hoist. Its always nice to have some help though, esp. those last few inches.

 

[Hedgehog]

You are sorta stuck mounting the engine where the motor mounts want the engine to go. I suppose there is room for the engine to be clocked slightly off to one side. This is because the motor mounts have a slot rather than a hole on one side, the drivers side?????, to allow the engine to be mounted and removed. I have to admit that working alone I had trouble mounting everything mounted, even mounted loosely. I ended up removing the frame mounts from the frame, then making alignment pins, 2 per side. I got the motor close, bolted up the Transmission while still on the picker. Then slowly lowered it until I could get the pins in place. This is when I realized that the engine was slightly clocked sideways in the picker straps. So I alogned one side and loosely bolted the mount to the frame. Then settled the other side and tightened EVERYTHNG up. Don't forget the blue lock tite. You'll find this isn't a gentle or surgical type of install. Occasionally you'll need brute strenght with the addition of a breaker bar of some sort. The inner garilla is handy here.

I have found that the Transfer Case /transmision is where some adjustment for centering it available. Even then it can be decieving. Remeber you've got about 100 lbs of Transfer Case hanging off to one side, so is it weight centered on the frame of driveline centered on the frame? My suggestion, and I know your prone to doing this is, "Don't over think it."

Edit - Good point. If you have the Transmission and Transfer Case out, bolt everything together and assemble all at once. This reduces the fiddle factor trememdously. Have some sort of roller avaiable for the Transfer Case to sit on.

 

[Scooter402]

I've done both ways, as far as dropping in an engine with the Transmission already installed, and stabbing the whole bit as one assembly multiple times (both with help, and without). Either way I suppose is personal preference to the installer. It's definitely easier to maneuver an engine alone than the whole length of the engine, Transmission , and Transfer Case .

As Hedgehog put it, the motor mounts have always dictated where I put the engine in my CJ. The only time that I decided where I wanted the drivetrain to go was when a rear driveshaft on a YJ V8 swap decided where it should go for me. They were weld-in mounts, anyway. Yours sound like bolt-in mounts, so you might have to move where you have your Transmission /Transfer Case mount on the skid plate. If you're lucky, there should already be holes in your skid plate, as they were relatively universal...Mine has two sets of holes for the frame mounting, and two or three different sets of holes for the Transfer Case mount depending on drivetrain setup.

As far as hardware goes, I'll add another vote for grade 5 hardware. I've got all grade 5 holding in my fire-breathing 600 hp 402, that's also on solid mounts.

Edit - Good point. If you have the Transmission and Transfer Case out, bolt everything together and assemble all at once. This reduces the fiddle factor trememdously. Have some sort of roller avaiable for the Transfer Case to sit on.

I'll edit my post here, too: I would do the same. BUT -- and that's a big BUT -- 1) Make sure that your hoist can handle it and 2) have it adjusted with the legs as far out as they can go. Ask me how I know... I have dropped my entire engine/Transmission /Transfer Case on the floor when the hoist tipped as the Transfer Case was swung around to go in. There was no holding the back of the hoist on the ground...

 

[Dan86CJ7]

just a few questions. are the amc v8s a direct install? just motor,cooling upgrade and mounts? or does the Transmission ,bell and drive shafts become an issue aswell...like has anyone mounted one to a T-5 ?

 

[Hedgehog]

AMC V8's are all made from the same engine block and are 100% interchangeable. A slight modification of that is that the 401 has some forged parts that make the engine stronger. Even cooling components are interchangeable, for instance the 360 doesn't run any hotter than the AMC 304 . That is not saying that all AMC bell housings are the same. Honestly I've heard, but can't remember if the AMC I6 is interchangeable or not. Other engines are not interchangable and most transmissions that weren't attached to a V8 are not acceptable due to the added horse power. T-15 , T-150 and T-18 transmisions are strong enough, possibly the T-175, I have no experience with that though.

 

[Deerejeep]

Thank you all for the input and tips. The install was easy. Had a trip to the store to get hardware. Then I had to go find carb studs for my lift plate. Despite not really trusting this lift method. I've got to tell you it really makes it easy to drop in the engine, along with the picker extended all the way out.

My tips:
Keep everything loose, even the mount to frame.
Attach the rubber mounts to the block side brackets before attaching that bracket to the block. This will allow you to get a torque wrench on it.
Get the driver side mount lined up and if get tight first.
The passenger side mount has "slides" for mounting. Attach this next.

I had to detach the passenger side, hand tighten it to block side then use the mounting bolts to help get it attached.

Overall two newbies, 45- an hour once I picked the engine up and had it installed. Per some requests. Here is engine installed.




Thank you for your interest and help.

 

[Hedgehog]

Keep a block under the rear of that pretty little engine, don't let her sag to the rear.

Sticking the engine in the frame is fun, wait until you have a Transmission to align. It's not that hard, but it adds some difficulty. Glad to see the engine at home.

 

[Deerejeep]

Keep a block under the rear of that pretty little engine, don't let her sag to the rear.

Sticking the engine in the frame is fun, wait until you have a Transmission to align. It's not that hard, but it adds some difficulty. Glad to see the engine at home.

Yes, got to put a support on the back. I've got the picker still hooked up as insurance. I'll get a 2x4 cut tomorrow or I think a jack stand might work.

 

[Hedgehog]

Be aware, hydraulic pistons aren't made to hold indefinitely. Matter of fact it's a great way to blow the seals out of your picker. I know this because I blew the seals out of my floor jack by putting it under the back of my engine, "just for tonight." You need to get the pressure off the hoist ASAP. Granted, the engine is in the frame so most of the pressure is off. A cinder block will work too, the block doesn't need to be fancy.