Vacuum Advance Adjustment Distributor
TeamRush
Active Jeeper
There is a reason a lot of guys that have done this for years won't go near an open information forum...
You have to deal with all the guys that pump myth and second hand stories and argue CONSTANTLY about everything...
1. Initial.
INITIAL IS JUST THAT, Just to get you started.
Cold, Poor Fuel, Wet & everything damp, condensation in the cylinders,
It has to get that engine RUNNING with no Centrifugal or Vacuum,
No atomizaion of fuel in the intake/combustion chamber, lots of 'Choke' fuel and accelerator pump fuel just laying in the intake/runners waiting to soak that spark plug down,
Frost or moisture in the intake/chambers,
Your battery is putting out about 1/4 the current it normally does,
And the engine is 400% harder to crank due to cold, thick oil, ect.
The starter is turning MUCH slower, so you aren't even getting crank speed working on your side...
Or the other extreme,
Engine way too hot, just lugged up out of a ditch, tried to pull someone out, stalled the engine...
WAY too hot to shut that engine down when it died, the valve are expanded and may or may not be sealing,
The pistons are fully expanded, the rings have oil so the cylinder compression will never be higher,
The engine got stalled, so there is raw fuel settling out in the intake,
And when you hit that key, you want that engine to take right off and purr like a kitten...
There isn't much you can do about the temperature or atomization of the fuel in the intake tract.
There isn't much you can do about the cylinder temperature, or if it's cold and leaking like a sieve,
Or if it's hot and sealing up like a hydraulic cylinder...
------------------
WHAT YOU CAN DO...
You can set that 'Initial' to a reasonable level what will work *Adequately* under most conditions you will encounter.
Initial is all you have.
If you are smarter than the 'Average Bear', you will do EVERYTHING you can to make sure you get a good, hot spark in that chamber.
A good, hot spark will give you a MUCH better chance to get the cylinders firing during 'Initial Cranking'...
Initial and hot spark are TWO things going in your favor.
If you have reasonable Initial, then the starter can turn the engine at it's best possible speed, and there are THREE things that are moving in your favor...
See where I'm going with this?...
There is advance for standing start/RPM based advance.
Take advantage of them at the APPROPRIATE TIME,
There is advance for 'Economy' based on engine load, take advantage of that at the APPROPRIATE TIME.
Don't just dump all the ignition advance on the 'Initial' and think you aren't effecting anything else.
You have to deal with all the guys that pump myth and second hand stories and argue CONSTANTLY about everything...
1. Initial.
INITIAL IS JUST THAT, Just to get you started.
Cold, Poor Fuel, Wet & everything damp, condensation in the cylinders,
It has to get that engine RUNNING with no Centrifugal or Vacuum,
No atomizaion of fuel in the intake/combustion chamber, lots of 'Choke' fuel and accelerator pump fuel just laying in the intake/runners waiting to soak that spark plug down,
Frost or moisture in the intake/chambers,
Your battery is putting out about 1/4 the current it normally does,
And the engine is 400% harder to crank due to cold, thick oil, ect.
The starter is turning MUCH slower, so you aren't even getting crank speed working on your side...
Or the other extreme,
Engine way too hot, just lugged up out of a ditch, tried to pull someone out, stalled the engine...
WAY too hot to shut that engine down when it died, the valve are expanded and may or may not be sealing,
The pistons are fully expanded, the rings have oil so the cylinder compression will never be higher,
The engine got stalled, so there is raw fuel settling out in the intake,
And when you hit that key, you want that engine to take right off and purr like a kitten...
There isn't much you can do about the temperature or atomization of the fuel in the intake tract.
There isn't much you can do about the cylinder temperature, or if it's cold and leaking like a sieve,
Or if it's hot and sealing up like a hydraulic cylinder...
------------------
WHAT YOU CAN DO...
You can set that 'Initial' to a reasonable level what will work *Adequately* under most conditions you will encounter.
Initial is all you have.
If you are smarter than the 'Average Bear', you will do EVERYTHING you can to make sure you get a good, hot spark in that chamber.
A good, hot spark will give you a MUCH better chance to get the cylinders firing during 'Initial Cranking'...
Initial and hot spark are TWO things going in your favor.
If you have reasonable Initial, then the starter can turn the engine at it's best possible speed, and there are THREE things that are moving in your favor...
See where I'm going with this?...
There is advance for standing start/RPM based advance.
Take advantage of them at the APPROPRIATE TIME,
There is advance for 'Economy' based on engine load, take advantage of that at the APPROPRIATE TIME.
Don't just dump all the ignition advance on the 'Initial' and think you aren't effecting anything else.