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Voltage regultor affects on altenator

Voltage regultor affects on altenator

JR74CJ5

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1974 CJ5 ~ Fresh built AMC 360 - SM420 - D20 - D30F with upgraded 30 spline shafts and knuckles & D44R - 4.27 Gears - ARB Lockers F/R - All chrome molly axles - on 33's - YJ 4" Lift Spring Conversion
Hey guys...

If a voltage regulator is malfunctioning, could it cause the altenator to put out too much voltage to the battery? Ill post actual numbers soon before and after replacement, but think it was between 15 and 16v measured at batt posts.

Any other possible causes?

Have more info but driving at moment... :cool:
 
Hopefully that 15-16 volts is while it is running. You could also try a jumper wire from the alternator housing to the battery negative to see if that cuts down the voltage at all. Overcharging a battery can cause it to boil over and burn out lights if the voltage gets too high. This would be a good time to convert to something like a CS130 GM alternator that puts out more amps since you do have a winch.
 
Yes to your ?
 
Yeah it was high 15v range measured at the batt posts with multimeter when running. I have been having a strang issue where the jeep would not start occationally (no spark) and have been suspecting the connections around my starter solinoid. This last time i started the jeep fine, drove an hour to the local ohv park, shut it off, aired down and removed sway bar ends and tried starting it without luck. I finally had help push starting it, but had to help with the starter to actually get it to fire. Was very strange... Anyways, while dealing with that, i checked the voltage at my new optima red top and found the reading higher than expected / desired. I've always seen 14v +/- a few tenths at the battery while running with correct charging circuit. So i just replaced both the starter solenoid and the volt reg and now i am getting the more common 14.2v reading at battery again.

Hopefully I've fixed both issues, but wont know until its driven for a few trips.

Feel free to still post opinions on either topic if you have ideas, but i think the initial problem was some poor corroded connections and possibly solenoid and dirty fuse block all masked together, and possibly my battery not liking being overcharged. I think they're fixed, again, but only time will tell... Lol

:chug:

Torx - what are you up to this weekend?? Ice house rd snow hunt this Saturday... :cool:
 
:agree:

What do you read with the lights and blower motor on?
LG

Idle at normal 750rpm - 12.5v

Idle at 1000rpm - 13.65v

At about 1100rpm - 13.7v

Thats about high as it goes with lights and blower motor on. Radio, cb, and rocklights / daylighters all still off though. With all of those accessories on - dropped to 13v flat at 1100 rpm
 
Those are good 'readings'. :confused:
Please repeat with only the engine run'n.
Is this a newly installed ALT?
Have you ck'd and clean'd you engine GND connections and cleaned your battery clamps?
Is this the Jeep's gauge or a V/O meter reading?
How old is the battery?
LG
 
Only engine running im good now - 14.2v +/-

I think the issues are gone now - readings are looking good (as you said) now.

No alt is seasoned. Grounds cleaned up pretty good a week ago before changing the vr and ss. Using multimeter, though the gauge appears to be pretty accurate with testing (good to know) and batt is brand new (week old) red top optima.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Make sure your electrical connections are clean and "TITE"
If it happens again-Have the battery load test'd for amps(NOT volts).
I say this, as you may have an internal intermittent issue with the battery.
Also-Make sure the plug to your ALT is clean and has a solid connection.
LG
 
Thanks buddy [emoji482]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
:chug:

LG
 
Glad you figured it out. The voltage regulator went out on my '65 and it blew up the battery and punched a hole in my fender :eek:
 

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