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Electrical Voltmeter- quit?

Electrical Voltmeter- quit?

Basod

Active Jeeper
Lifetime Supporter
Posts
348
Thanks
8
Location
Mt. Cheaha, AL
Vehicle(s)
'84 CJ7, 258, T4, D300, D30, AMC20, 3.54 gears
Voltmeter quit on me last fall during a trail ride.
Have 14.2v running at alternator, 12v off and 12v at I terminal on starter solenoid so I think that rules out the fusible links.
Have no voltage at the yellow plug for the voltmeter and the black has 0ohm to ground.
My print shows a 14 red and a 10?? Could be 15 yellow termination prior to what I assume is the bulk head connector (symbol on print >>) before connecting to ammeter.
I don’t see a yellow at the bulkhead connection. Any ideas or suggestions?
 
From the fuse block should be a yellow 10ga that goes to a splice one side to the ignition switch one side to the volt meter. The >> means a connector. C100 is the fuse block
 
Those splices are notorious for bad connections. I removed my entire harness, stripped the wrapping, cleaned all splices, and then soldered them all. No more "phantoms" to trace down. "Yellow85cj" is right with the yellow wire from the ignition switch to the volt meter. Switch on should apply 12V to the volt meter. Of course the other side of the volt meter is then grounded. Need both connections for it to read. Grounds can also be another issue. You measured zero ohms to ground on that connection already, so now confirm +12V at the yellow wire on the ignition switch. If that's there, it's in the wiring harness somewhere, probably the splice.

IgnitionSwtWiring1A.webp
 
From the fuse block should be a yellow 10ga that goes to a splice one side to the ignition switch one side to the volt meter. The >> means a connector. C100 is the fuse block
Appreciate the help guys! Those prints are much better than the one I had.
When I tested at the ignition switch (could only reach it with my test light) and the bulb seemed dim and I was getting ~0.6VDC at the yellow for voltmeter while cycling the key.
Went back to the fuse block and started removing and reinstalling fuses, seems its a buildup of corrosion at my fuse block terminals because after that I had 12V at the yellow plug.
 
While a bit of a pain, it's not too bad removing individual terminals from the fuse block to clean and then re-insert them. A small "poker" type tool (straightened paperclip, super small flat blade, etc) to depress the retaining tabs will allow you to pop them out one by one, clean them up with a small wire "toothbrush", and then re-insert them into their slots.

fuse_block.webp
 
Last edited:

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