Want atleast 4in lift on my '72 CJ5

Want atleast 4in lift on my '72 CJ5
T

Thumper

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Fort Smith
So far I like the 33's on I and the lift it has, but it's rigged by the PO and it's scarey at hwy speeds. It's like a 2 1/2 homeade shackle lift and it sways badly and the fronts are bent inward. I heard don't do a SOA. For not over like $600 shipped on a 4in kit, what kit would be best? I'm a newbe and my wife will be driving this so I don't want it the way it is. This homeade shackle doesn't have bushings in it either so that's some of the sway. I can get the original shackles from the guy also. Got quoted $450 for a RC 2.5 kit but that seemed high.
 
$450 is not high for a proper lift kit. If you have a shackle lift and no bushing then you are asking to get hurt. Don't forget the 2 1/2 extension on the shackle do NOT raise your vehicle 2 1/2 inches. The axle is only half way to the pivot point so it is more like 1.25 inches. A good quality 2.5 inch full spring lift kit will give you good clearnace for your 33 inch tires and the spring rate will be better for ride quality than a 4 inch spring. If you want your Jeep to be safe then spend the money.

Another option if you are strapped for cash but you need a lift is lifting the body. I am not a fan but it is an option and will let you get rid of those scary shackles.
 
Kane said:
$450 is not high for a proper lift kit. If you have a shackle lift and no bushing then you are asking to get hurt. Don't forget the 2 1/2 extension on the shackle do NOT raise your vehicle 2 1/2 inches. The axle is only half way to the pivot point so it is more like 1.25 inches. A good quality 2.5 inch full spring lift kit will give you good clearnace for your 33 inch tires and the spring rate will be better for ride quality than a 4 inch spring. If you want your Jeep to be safe then spend the money.

Another option if you are strapped for cash but you need a lift is lifting the body. I am not a fan but it is an option and will let you get rid of those scary shackles.
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X2. I wouldn't drive a jeep lifted like that. The PO must have been an idiot. I know It's "just a CJ" but It's still a motor vehicle and will kill you just as quick or quicker than any other vehicle because of improper modifications done to it. 450 isn't a bad price for a well designed and properly manufactured spring lift, and more important is the fact that it will eliminate the mess you have now and make it right. 2.5" is a good lift that requires little extra mod to make it 100% right. The only thing I would disagree with is the use of body lift past 1" I absolutely dislike the use of a body lifts and shackles as a cheap short cut to get a "look". Do it once, do it right, do it safe, do it with springs.
 
I want to do it right, and I don't care for BL's. I just threw out $600 because shops are usually high and that's what they wanted for a RC 2.5 leaf kit. I think it was only leafs and he said the shocks would make it $500 and tax and everything too. My wife wants 4 inches lift but I heard from one guy that said it was too high on his. I know about the shackles and these haven't been measured but they are like 4-6in long, like I said they scare me and I want them out like FAST, faster the better but I don't have to be in a huge hurry since it's cold and it's a topless Jeep. I need a kit before summer. If the RC kit is a decent price I'll get it for $500 but it seemed kinda higher than I could maybe find online. Between the 2.5 and 4in leaf spring lifts what else needs to be done? drop pitman arm, stuff like that?
 
Thumper said:
I want to do it right, and I don't care for BL's. I just threw out $600 because shops are usually high and that's what they wanted for a RC 2.5 leaf kit. I think it was only leafs and he said the shocks would make it $500 and tax and everything too. My wife wants 4 inches lift but I heard from one guy that said it was too high on his. I know about the shackles and these haven't been measured but they are like 4-6in long, like I said they scare me and I want them out like FAST, faster the better but I don't have to be in a huge hurry since it's cold and it's a topless Jeep. I need a kit before summer. If the RC kit is a decent price I'll get it for $500 but it seemed kinda higher than I could maybe find online. Between the 2.5 and 4in leaf spring lifts what else needs to be done? drop pitman arm, stuff like that?
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First off, I'm happy to see you're going to do the job correctly. :chug: Now comes the "I personally don't like RC springs comment, followed by the, you may want to considder a soft ride spring, like Skyjacker, or one of the other premium makers. RC has been considdered over the years to be a budget spring, and a bone crusher because of the harsh ride. Some may like them, I do not. A 2.5" lift will only need a slight brake line adjustment to lengthen them due to the added lift fron the frame, and a little twieking at the drag link just to center your steering wheel. That's it. A 4" kit will require new brake lines, a drop arm, and a skid plate drop to help out with the increased drive line angle.
 
coldwater said:
First off, I'm happy to see you're going to do the job correctly. :chug: Now comes the "I personally don't like RC springs comment, followed by the, you may want to considder a soft ride spring, like Skyjacker, or one of the other premium makers. RC has been considdered over the years to be a budget spring, and a bone crusher because of the harsh ride. Some may like them, I do not. A 2.5" lift will only need a slight brake line adjustment to lengthen them due to the added lift fron the frame, and a little twieking at the drag link just to center your steering wheel. That's it. A 4" kit will require new brake lines, a drop arm, and a skid plate drop to help out with the increased drive line angle.
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Edit, I just noticed that you have a CJ5 . 4" will probably require the rear drive shaft be replaced, as the drive angle will be way too much.
 
I blew out alot of u joints on my stock rear drive shaft on my 5 until I coughed up the cash for a CV driveshaft, not to mention the annoying vibration issues. 10 years later and no issues with the CV shaft.
 
Yea don't call it "Rough Country" for nothing. I'll step up to a Skyjacker, and I've heard good things about Superlift but it was my JK not about it on a CJ5 .
 
Coldwater's right on. :notworthy:

I"ve had a CJ7 with a 4" superlift spring kit for 6 years now, they have held up real well. The rides not to bad either.
 
I have 2.5" skyjackers and a 1" body lift and clear 33" AT's .
The skyjacker ride is much better than the stock springs and I have been dissapointed in the ride from Rancho suspensions. the SJ is a different alloy spring steel from the rancho and the RC, it is the same alloy used in coil springs for better cycle rates and smoother flex. Unload the shackles ASAP and tell the wife to chill on the height, they only make milk crates in one size.
My GF needs one now , with just a 2.5 and 1":cool:

Old Dog said:
Coldwater's right on. :notworthy:

I"ve had a CJ7 with a 4" superlift spring kit for 6 years now, they have held up real well. The rides not to bad either.
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I have used Rancho, Pro Comp, Tough Country and now Warn Black Diamond. The black diamond springs are the best ride so far for the road because ther bottom of the curve is flat but I don't thing Warn makes them anymore. I thought they sold the line to someone but I am too lazy to look it up. Rancho was OK, Pro Comp was stiff but oddly enough they flexed like hell on the trails and Tough Country just plain sucked <-BAD WORD->.
 
Another option to keep the lift height low, but still allow the use of 33" meats, is to put a good quality 2-3" lift, and put some fender flairs on , if you're not afraid to do a little trimming. This keeps the center of gravity low, allowing for a more stable ride, with good flex. This is very appealing to me, as I have a fiberglass body. A 1" body lift incorporated into the body mounts is also a good idea to get a little more room, but I would not go more than that.
 
I never see where you guys use BDS ???
:cool:LOOK! At least check out the BDS lift kit ...IT COMES HIGHLY RECOMMENDED and no questions ask warranty...
 
You don't say what power you have with your cj, but if you have the AMC 304 and you try to do a spring over, you are going to get axle wrap in a very bad way. Plus with that short wheeelbase and narrow leaf springs, at highway speeds you are in serious trouble. The problem with that amount of lift, as you already have seen with your pigeon toed front wheels, is that your steering geometry is AFU. You also don't say whether or not your have the saginaw power steering; if it is manual steering, when you go over 33" tires up to, say 35" tires you are going to need Hulk Hogan's arms to steer it at low speed. If you decide to go with a 4" lift, listen to the others and get new springs, shocks, shims for the rear diff dropped pitman arm, quick disconnects for the front for better articulation. oh yeah, you are going to need all new brake line extensions or you will rip the old ones to pieces when you offroad your rig. Take your time and do it right. oh, I almost forgot, you are going to have to drop the Transfer Case because your driveline angle is going to be way steep and it will sound like you have a saladmaster Transmission . good luck.
 
lukemon said:
You don't say what power you have with your cj, but if you have the AMC 304 and you try to do a spring over, you are going to get axle wrap in a very bad way. Plus with that short wheeelbase and narrow leaf springs, at highway speeds you are in serious trouble. The problem with that amount of lift, as you already have seen with your pigeon toed front wheels, is that your steering geometry is AFU. You also don't say whether or not your have the saginaw power steering; if it is manual steering, when you go over 33" tires up to, say 35" tires you are going to need Hulk Hogan's arms to steer it at low speed. If you decide to go with a 4" lift, listen to the others and get new springs, shocks, shims for the rear diff dropped pitman arm, quick disconnects for the front for better articulation. oh yeah, you are going to need all new brake line extensions or you will rip the old ones to pieces when you offroad your rig. Take your time and do it right. oh, I almost forgot, you are going to have to drop the Transfer Case because your driveline angle is going to be way steep and it will sound like you have a saladmaster Transmission . good luck.
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I have the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l (AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l ), with a 3spd manual/Dana 20 Tcase. I have PS so turning is easy. Right now I need a place that's reasonably priced on CJ5 parts. I need some stock shackles that are greasable, I do not want a shackle lift or BL. I don't want a SOA lift. I want a decent riding spring lift, would do 4in but if a 2in lift would be better I'd do that. Right now my lift is like 1.5in and it flexs fine for me on these 33's and the brake lines are fine on the front and back, I tested it at home and they are ok. I just know this thing scares the crapola outta me at 40mph. I was trail riding a few days ago and at like 40 my butt was griping the seat, I thought I saw my last day. I saw my life flashing before my eyes.
 
Update: Want stock length shackles but want greasable ones
Where's a good place or price for these?

The least expensive lift to clear 33's. Not a cheap set of leafs, just a lift that doesn't call for a bunch of upgrades like Tcase drop and Dshaft at this time, brake lines would be a good idea anyways so no worries there.
Where's a good place and price for a good leaf kit and brake lines?

Also, anyone know a good front Dana 30 disc brake kit?

Like said before I want to do this right, it's not a crawler but more of a highway driver and a little offroad. Don't need a lot of flex.
 
The best front disc brakes is a newer Dana 30 axle (starting in '76(? I think) they came stock) and swap the outers out to your axle. Unless you get lucky and find one with your current axle ratio, then just swap the hole axle.

Are you in Ft Smith AR?
 
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