Water Temp Guage

[MN CJ7]

Re: TR, grounds, upgrades

TeamRush upgrade, super simple and amazing upgrade.
I ran grounds: module, head, block, alt, firewall, starter, I still need to run the frame & grill. But this was an amazing upgrade as well.
I did the grounds Friday night... And cranked it up and the bad idle was gone just like that! I ran it down the road and it was like driving a total different jeep. Saturday morning I completed the TR and all I can say is Wow!
I didn't know a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l could run so good. Thank you so much for all the advice.

Next on the list:
I'm thinking about a new radiator, and maybe weber carb?

Some issues I need to address: oil leaks... And I put an aftermarket temp gauge on, I used the port om the driver side block, how much difference is in the temp from head to block?

Pretty COOL......

Yes, simple process to ilimate some weak issues...

I would also bet you picked up 8 mpg or so, lots of pep, 1000 rpms.

In about a wks time I will dirve my CJ 700 hwy miles, at AMC 150 miles one way, and wheel 4 days... No hesitation on my part, runs very well. Half way done so far, going wheeling again this weekend...


The LOOOOOOONG valve cover and oil pan like to leak... Ck you FSM, Field Svc Manual, and look up the torque specs it's pretty low. Use a low range torque wrench starting in center and do circles to gradualy ck the fasteners. Use Circle from the center and work your way out to ends... Repeat a few times until you are at the torque level, and go slowly.... Lots of times this can stop the leak... I can look up the torque specs if you do not have a FSM, if you do not have can also look for Jeep FSM Digital....... there are lots of them on the web..

Gradual torque up is true for maifolds and head also..... it is a good practice to keep in mind...

Loosen up go backwards......start with very small steps on ends and work circle to middle..... repeat..... repeat. Keeps from warping the heads and manifolds..


Can use GUNK engine cleaner, warm engine at the wand wash, cover the carb and alternator and the dist cap..... Spray engine wait few minutes and wash off grime. Allows you to see were the leaks are and work on a cleaner engine.... less contamination on work too...

If you need gaskets get the felpro prem one pc gaskets... High Tac and Permatex product will hold the gasket in place while you place it. I use the high tac on the head side like the corners and once along the flat long sied....... Makes it much easier when held in place... I also use some RTV on Cover side... Finger tight and leave it alone for 24 hrs pluss. Then tighten with circles to torque spec... Will not leak... Alt would be to use the RTV on the valve cover only... This may work so you can take over the cove and gasket maybe once or so and keep the gasket.... I use the High TAc and do not have any leaks.... These are long big gaskets and not the easiest to do.

If valve cover is tin and has , or oil pan, is dished at the holes from over torque.. Hold on wood work bench edge and carefull with hammer and or ballpen flatten the dished areas. This will help with seal up too.

 

[RedDog]

The valve cover is the stock plastic. I have always heard how bad they leak.
Do they make an aftermarket that you don't have to drill and tap the bolt holes or is that just the norm for aftermarket... The post I've read all say they had to drill out the holes.
I am going to change the PCv valve too, I read that it could make a leak worse if it's clogged up.
I knew I had a leak before upgrades, but it is alot more notiiceable now. I don't know why but I use to never notice spots but now everywhere I park has a puddle when I come back.

 

[MN CJ7]

Snug up your valve cover and oil pan with a torque wrench and the circle process mentioned above... That may stop your leak..... 1-2 of the oil pan bolts will need one of the motor mounts to be loosened and engine raised a bit with a floor jack to get to the bolt heads.... Because of this those 1-2 are often loose.. HECK I bet you find several bolts that are a bit too loose.... the gaskets get old and dry out but the bolts loosen up pretty often tooo.

I have not resarched the plastic valve cover, so no suggestions

I have tin valve cover and tin oil pan... zero leaks... my biggest leak is the plastic oil fill plug... Have to wipe it 1-3 times between oil changes... It has been 4-5 years now and no leaks.... so it can be done..

 

[BusaDave9]

The valve cover is the stock plastic. I have always heard how bad they leak.

Yes, they warp and leak. I got a Clifford valve cover for the CJ7 I used to have and that fixed the leaks for good. I dont' know if you can still get a Clifford valve cove.

 

[BusaDave9]

Is this the temp gauge thread or the valve cover thread or the ignition thread?
If it's the ignition thread then I am confused how the Team Rush upgrade can help so much. It's basically a bigger distributor with matching wires. That won't give a bigger, stronger spark. It may prevent cross fire but so would a better distributor cap for the OEM distributor. What am I missing?

 

[MN CJ7]

Is this the temp gauge thread or the valve cover thread or the ignition thread?
If it's the ignition thread then I am confused how the Team Rush upgrade can help so much. It's basically a bigger distributor with matching wires. That won't give a bigger, stronger spark. It may prevent cross fire but so would a better distributor cap for the OEM distributor. What am I missing?

Dear Dave,

yes it is all three, we worked on TEMP Sensor Solution, Igntiion Upgrades, and leaky valve cover and oil pan...

If you are confused ...... I can help you understand.... pretty good with the CJ Ignition.... BUT, I explained a great deal of this thru the thread...... and there is more to it than just the cap & wires. There were also a few good links... So lets start with the reading and then I can help with the confusion part....

YES the UPGRADE PATH will give a stronger spark and get it to the proper cylinder..... its all in the reading material...

 

[BusaDave9]

I have read the post. You have talked about getting good grounds. Good idea. JeepHammer talks about how the distributor can get a bad ground over the years. Also lots of good information here: Welcome to the Junk Yard Genius.com Ignition homepage!
The Team Rush upgrade is the stage 1 basic upgrade that replaces the distributor cap, rotor and wires. Sounds like this upgrade just prevents crossfire in the distributor cap and plug wires. I already have good quality MSD plug wires but they are for the OEM distributor cap. Any upgrade from here will mean new spark plug wires. I guess I could replace just the ends if I get a crimper.

 

[MN CJ7]

There is still more "knowledge" base info to the TEAMRUSH than just a bigger cap, rotar, and premium spark plug wires... and using aux grounds...

12 V Auto uses DC circuite the power that goes out needs to come back to battery it makes a full loop. Poor gounds on CJ are issue and need correction.

Once the TEAMRUSH Cap and grounds are done, the plug gap can be opened to .045". This increases the voltage at the spark plug gap. It also make it easier for increased voltage to jump to any other good ground. Do not increase plug gap to .045 unless you have done the TEAMRUSH parts and grounds, or it will increase cross fires and missed spark due to misc arc outs to grounds.

BRASS cap...... I had alumium cap, brand new plug wires, new plugs on a brand new rebuilt long block. All brand new stuff. Did teamrush and I got a 20% improvement in pep, mileage, 1000 usefull rpms. Use alumium and the performance will drop off pretty quick from the high voltage cooking the alumium to alumium oxide and its not a conductive oxide. Most of the HEI cap I see are alumium caps and cheap. Brass oixide can be cleaned off and the cap returned to service.... cannot do that with aluminum caps.

LOTS of the TEAMRUSH cap & rotar have a lifetime warranty if you but the right stuff at the right store. So you only have to buy your tune up parts once for the vehicle.. How much money can that save. I just replaced my cap/rotar after 5 year..... NO CHARGE

Do not use a black cap or rotar.... Often they are colored black with carbon and carbon is a conductive filler. Bad idea to use carbon in caps so NEVER get a black cap. Cap materials are not equal...... some materials have a far superior electrical properties and dielectric strenght. MSD cap uses the premium material rairly used but you will pay much more for it... SO NOT ALL EQUAL

COPPER ANTISEISE...
Use copper anitsieze on the spark plug threads. It help with the spark plug ground. Plugs need good ground or they add to the resistance in igntion loop. Especially on alumium heads..... aluminum heads and steel threads on plugs have galvonic corrosion, add heat & moisture and it takes place even faster.... Cast iron heads and plugs rust and copper antiseize will stop the rust and helps to keep a good ground and the plugs will not seize.

Dielectric GRease
Needs to be used on spark plug boots, it will keep out moisture, and keep energy from leaking out of the spark plug boots.

Larger cap does cut down on cross talk, say spark for #1 cylinder jumping to the cylinder next to it. Its a bad think, fire wrong cylinder and waste the fuel waiting to work in #1 and send it out the exhaust.... YES its a big deal and it happens often

Larger cap has more air mass so it cuts down on the high spark energy ionization of the air in cap. There will alway be ionized air, that is now conductive, in the cap. Larger cap will less likely be ionized to the point it helps the spark jump to metal ground or cross talk. The teamrush cap and "rotar" has a fin on the back side adn stirs the air for less ionized air issues in the cap. Better caps are also vented so the ionized air can be mixed with fresh air helping solve this issue further.

The OEM oil filled cannister is a ok coil..
For the V8 engines a change of coil could yield better spark esp at the higher rpm levels. This is less with the I6 because it turns less rpms. The coil needs to use the wire turns to "step up transformer" the spark plug voltage. Not all coils are equal. I changed to the Ford E coil on my I6 and most of the AMC v8s should change to the Ford E coil .... they can be had when at the U pull junk yard for $5.

TEAMRUSH w/ aux grounds
Solves the biggest failure of the stock DuraSpark Ignition Modual with the dredded black potting compound oooosing out on the drivers fender wall. Weak ground from the distributor mount, the only ignition ground, for the duraspark ignition will over heat and kill the DuraSpark. My 1978 DuraSpark Modual is still working and is my back up igntion modual... Second ground, head ground is the second weak ground that will kill a DuraSpark Modual.. These are part of teamrush and will keep you from killing your igntion modual and save you $35 and from getting stranded on road or trail. We also learned do not leave ignition key on RUN w/o engine running....... this will over heat the duraspark modual. Will stand you on the trail or road because someone played the radio with the key on RUN rather than accessory.

TEAMRUSH
Teaches us the fire signal wires comming from the distributor are low level signal wires. These are twised 2-3 turns per inch to reduce cross talk and keep the fire signal clean and strong on its way to the DuraSpark Modual or the MSD modual. Many times I have corrected a install because the "fire signal wires" are run with the coil power wires and induce currents in the fire signal and messes up the ignition esp at higher rpms. Any switched voltage wires, and high voltage wires, need to be kept away from the fire signal wires. One of the reason I ask to see pictures of the distributor close up and the engine bay in general. The coil and dist are close together and it happens often, so does take out the twist when cleaniing up the engine harness. The MSD now fires 3 times per cylinder with a much higher voltage...... it will raise heck with the fire signal if you run the wires together. TEAMRUSH also teaches up the fender wall and firewall can act as SHIELDS for the distributor fire signal wires......

I mean come on this guy, TEAMRUSH, really really know his ignitions. I have a ME/EE/Physics education & work back ground. I find now flaw in his thinking, review, or findings... HE has it going on big time. FEW have this background and can understand to this level......... I suggest the readers on CJ Forum take full advantage of what has been give to us.

TEAMRUSH also teaches us if you want to improve your ignition and have $AMC 150 to spend. Spend it on a MSD and have the best ignition you can put in a AMC engine... Buy it once..... if you sell the jeep hook up the stock ignition with TWO connectors (coil & dist fire signal) and the aux ground for DuraSpark and you have a trail back up ignition and ready to run again.... Takes 5 min to change your ignition for back up or to remove the MSD, take it for the NEXT jeep project..

TEAMRUSH teaches us Computer Jeeps need a few corrections
The AMC DuraSpark distributor will have mech limit slots of 5 & 8 degrees and is not enough to run the I6 or V8 engine correctly. The slots will need to opened up or the distributor can be replaced with a remanufactured Duraspark Distributor for $50 with a lifetime warranty. Look down thru the plate holes and the mech advance slots can be seen and they are stamped for the deg / width. NON computer distributors have 13 & 18 degree slots and those are the ones to use..

TEAMRUSH also teaches us some of the computer systems
Have a rotar phase issue when the computer is removed... That means the rotar is no longer pointing to #1 terminal in cap when it fires. This does happen and when it does AMC engine will not run well. It can be corrected in 20 min or so with a cap that has a window cut in it above the #1 terminal and the time light is used to see if the fire position is off. Reluctar can be rotated and corrected fairly easy...... BUT you have to know about the issue and the correction. This is not with all the computer controlled Jeeps but does happen fairly often. AMC computers can only take advance out, uses knock sensor, and O2, to set the carb and time advance, but can only remove time or retard timing.

TEAMRUSH
Teaches us to correct the weak links with DuraSpark, save us money, and give a reliable driver.

Teamrush also teaches us the HEI is a lesser igntion to the DuraSpark distributor for over a dozen MAJOR reasons. Many of the reason HEI has a spark control issue far more than the duraspark. The book of JEEPHAMMER is well worth the read and research.

There is lots more about this upgrade path too.

SO YES, there is more to the TEAMRUSH Upgrade than just the LARGER cap & rotar. This was all done of the top of my head and typed. The above is only a small part.. I also covered several of these points in this thread... so yes there was more to it.

Hope that helps, and lets read up on this, there is more

 

[RedDog]

ok,
So this weekend's plan is to Install new PCV Valve, 2bucks and 2seconds.. just incase its bad and making my oil leak worse, then to cover the dist, Alt, and Carb... degrease the motor and wash it off... Clean it up good. Check my tork on the valve cover (it is printed on the VC itself... i'm thinking is said 28lbs) then I will observe the leak/leaks... then figure if I need the VC and or Oil Pan... more than likely going to be the rear main seal...(not looking forward to that one)

What about this: I noticed that the bell housing has a bolt hole that is cracked around where it goes onto the block, what is an easy fix for this without having to pull the Transmission and everything out to weld or replace... JB Weld?
there is oil leaking from the crack, that has me really guessing the rear main seal is leaking.

I really can't beleive the jeep is leaking due to it only has now 52k on it.

MN CJ7 , thank you for all your help on this new project of mine.
I promise I will get some pics up shortly.

 

[MN CJ7]

ok,
So this weekend's plan is to Install new PCV Valve, 2bucks and 2seconds.. just incase its bad and making my oil leak worse, then to cover the dist, Alt, and Carb... degrease the motor and wash it off... Clean it up good. Check my tork on the valve cover (it is printed on the VC itself... i'm thinking is said 28lbs) then I will observe the leak/leaks... then figure if I need the VC and or Oil Pan... more than likely going to be the rear main seal...(not looking forward to that one)

What about this: I noticed that the bell housing has a bolt hole that is cracked around where it goes onto the block, what is an easy fix for this without having to pull the Transmission and everything out to weld or replace... JB Weld?
there is oil leaking from the crack, that has me really guessing the rear main seal is leaking.

I really can't beleive the jeep is leaking due to it only has now 52k on it.

MN CJ7 , thank you for all your help on this new project of mine.
I promise I will get some pics up shortly.

PCV... ck the line with engine running sometimes the line plugs up or the carb connection can plug up.

Valve Cover and Oil Pan are in in# not foot#. Most use a 1/4" drive on these small fasteners.... Not sure what years are the plastic valve cover just looked and 81 valve cover is 40 in#.

OLD gaskets get stiff..... not the miles but the age of gaskets... snug them up and may stop your small oil leaks... Engine slats to rear so any valve cover or oil pan leak will look like the rear seal. If rear seal is leaking with use it may stop leaking as things loosen up with use.

Cracked bell housing..
I would guess some one used the bell housing bolts to snug up the Transmission and things got bound up... JB weld will not fix that... There is alumium rod that can be brased with propane, map, or acetaline... Cool stuff to fix alumun and can put the bolt in bell housing with a from if necessary. Clean away oxides with stainless steel brush only... steel brush will keep the alumi rod from wetting on the bell housing.. The alumi rod is stronger than the base metal and would make a good repair.

I think one bolt cracked on a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l considering v8s use the same bell housing... NOT the best but I think you will be ok for now. When you do some work, drop Transmission or so, the fix the bell housing... Let me know if you cannot find it.... I can take a look and post a link or two... I have some and it works on alumium metal and cast alumium....

You are welcome.... fun to help jeepers that catch on and willing to do the work.... congrads to you!

 

[MN CJ7]

forgot to mention..... The alumium ROD

Does not stick to steel. So can put the bolt thru the bell housing and brase up with the alumium rod and it will be a good repair. If thread ear is broken can use the threaded section of the bolt and a sheet metal mold and fill in the ear complet with the threads installed... NOT cheap but cool stuff, call around you might find a weld shop that has it.. used it and can do it for you....

If its only the one hole on bell housing that is cracked miight wait till you do more work that would be a related.

 

[RedDog]

The crack is around the bolt hole. It's all still there, just cracked all the way around it. If ya took the bolt out the piece would fall off.
I think ur right, I may just not worry about it until I need some other work done down there. Maybe when I put a lift and do the transfer drop or something.

 

[RedDog]

Ok, got everything together to degrease motor and check for leaks.
Also got gear oil to change Transmission and transfer.
Got some radiator flush as well. Got a dirty job ahead of me in the moring.
Maybe pics this weekend!
Thanks

 

[RedDog]

Motor Mounts

Well, I got the Radiator flushed, havent done the degeasing yet.
but noticed motor mounts are junk... ordered ES Polyurethane, MM, TM, & Torque Arm Bushings.... Going to install this weekend, guessing this would be a good time to change Oil Pan gasket and Rear Main Seal as well, even if they dont need it.... am I thinking correct?

Any Tips or Tricks with the motor mounts? I am going to do it @ My Father laws shop, he has a Hoist and a super selection of tools..etc, but I have read a few horror post about things not going right and mounts not lining up..etc.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Guy Smiley]

Re: Motor Mounts

Any Tips or Tricks with the motor mounts? I am going to do it @ My Father laws shop, he has a Hoist and a super selection of tools..etc, but I have read a few horror post about things not going right and mounts not lining up..etc.

Thanks for the advice.[/QUOTE]

The motor mounts can be a PITA. Having a hoist will help. The only tip I can offer would be to get all your bolts started and the mounts almost in position before tighting everything up. I didn't have a hoist and those mounts kick my butt, BUT I won in the end

 

[RedDog]

Thanks for the reply... Not what I wanted to hear, I was hoping that it would be easy... But at least I'll have some help and be at a place well equipped than at my house in the driveway.
Hopefully it'll go smoothly.

 

[RedDog]

I got the motor mounts Transmission mount and the trq arm bushings all replaced. No problems at all, everything went smooth.
Now what can I do with it?