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Weber 32/36 for 2.5L

Weber 32/36 for 2.5L

moranna

Jeeper
Posts
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Location
Valdosta, GA
Vehicle(s)
1985 cj7
Newbie needing advice on Weber 32/36 setup for 85 with 2.5L 4

Tossed the Carter, did the Nutter bypass and stripped out all of the stock emissions (electrical and vacuum). Totally bypassed the computer.

Installed a Holley regulator set at 3.0 PSI with new fuel filter (with out return line).

New plugs and NAPA Belden wires and timing at idle is set at 8 degrees advanced.

New PCV valve hooked up to large nipple on the Weber.

Idle jet backed out 2 1/2 turns and idle adjustment screw turned in per instructions.

The new carb cranks well and idles nice when electric choke is on but as soon as it warms up and choke disengages it begins to idle unevenly with RPMs rising and falling and with a slight misfire. Tends to stall out when in gear and clutch in although it seems to run out well (for a 4 cylinder anyway) once moving with no hesitation or misfires.

My first thought is a possible vacuum leak at the maniforld adaptor. Should the Weber be mounted using a sealant?

If so what is best to use?

Any other things I should check on the weber before reinstalling such as the jet sizes, float level setting or butterfly valve setting?

Sorry for long post but and advice greatly appreciated.
 
Vacuum line to dist hooked up and pulls 12 inches at idle going up to 20+ inches at higher rpms.

You may be on to something with the timing. Timing is set at 8 degrees advance with vacuum unhooked (but blocked off at carb) but the motor idles very rough. Hook the vacuum line up and advance instantly kicks in all the way, the timing advances to around 20 degrees and the rpms pick up but still not running consistenly smooth and still some stumbling.

Wondering if I've got a weak dist advance or maybe screwed up something with the ignition module when I bypassed the Carter emissions computer.
 
I know this is an old thread, but I am curious if this was a vac line or the timing?

I was having same symptoms and found a leak at my intake manifold. Just finished stripping both the intake and exhaust manifolds to clean them up. When they go back on I will install a holley regulator and I'm thinking of nuttering the engine. Any advice/tricks?
 
I finally went beyond the Nutting bypass by replacing my wiring harness with a basic 7 circuit kit from Hayseed. It's incredible at the amount of junk in the stock harness.

Still having issues with difficulty cranking when cold and rough idle but honestly have not spent a lot of time on it due to work and other projects. Still not sure if it is carb tuning related or timing or possibly something like a vacuum leak.

I mounted a regulator when I first oput on the weber and then took it out and now only have the bypass fuel filter. Could not tell a difference in the way it cranked or idled.

You may be on to something by cleaning the manifod to head section. I only confirmed that no leak at the carb to manifold connection.

Is there anyway to check that without removal of the carb and manifold?
 
Is your vac going to the dissy ported vac because at idle it should be 0 and then goes up as the rpms go up. You said it has 12 at idle that tells me you have it plug into manifold vac.
 
You use some carb cleaner and spray it along the intake manifold where it meets the block. If you may hear a change in idle, that's a good indicator of a leak. (I took the easy way out first by smearing some high temp gasket sealer at the spot, but it didn't help. Don't do that.) Should be putting everything back on this weekend and can let you know if I see a difference.
 
In the same thought, I'm trying to use one on my 2.5 and can't get the adapter mounted "correctly". Does it matter which direction the barrels face on a single barrel manifold?
 
Sorry, not sure if I understand your question but the Weber carb is mounted with the fuel intake facing the front, the throttle linkage to the rear.

Traveling for next few days so can't look at mine but I believe the large vacuum port (for power brake set up) faces the front.

Also, I had to replace the manifold mounting studs with shorter ones to mount my Weber.

Thanks for the tips on vacuum mounting and leakage testing. I'll check both out next weekend.
 

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