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Looking for a jeep and not having any experience with them would like to know what problems to look for and what to stay away from. I can do some minor work to a rig but don't want to get into something that I'm going to have to completely rebuild.
My best advice is for you to find someone who knows about these older Jeeps and have them go shopping with you. Be wary of the people that tell you a problem "is no big deal" especially if you don't have significant experience with repairs. I encountered a few people that were just trying to unload their garbage. A $30 bearing that needs replacing might require $500 in labor to fix -- if you don't want to do the work yourself.
A test drive will tell you a lot. You can then also inspect for rust, cracks in the frame, steering, odd tire wear, wobbles and clunks, abnormalities with the various fluids, hoses, brakes, electrical, gauges, etc. With a vehicle that is 25+ years old, there are a bunch of little (and big) things that can eat away at your disposable income pretty fast. Chances are high that most Jeeps you look at will have some sort of issue and will need some work. How well does it appear to have been maintained -- or has it been neglected? Having someone with experience in older vehicles, especially Jeeps, can help tremendously.
Watch out for Jeep lust and buying something that looks cool. An extra-high lift could potentially cause a domino-effect of problems if it wasn't done correctly or completely. Before making a commitment, its also good to have a plan of what kind of work will need to be done immediately versus something that can wait a while.
Be patient. There are a wide variety of Jeeps available, ranging from $500-$15000 price points. The installed equipment and condition of a $3000 Jeep (for example) can vary dramatically.
67 cj5,225 Dauntless, D30,chrome molies, detroit, D44, full floating detroit, custom steering, disc all the way around,2 inch lift on 31s, armored up
70 cj6 4 inch lift
First, look for the most stock jeep you can find
a street queen
look for a vehicle that has not been altered at all
no lift, no engine changes etc
in other words look for a jeep that has not been abused off road or is a project some one cannot get right.
avoid any Project that is unfinished, infact run like hell from any unfinished project
avoid any jeep that has a large lift and looks like it has been abused
avoid jeeps with "sweet drive train changes" such as It has a chevy v8 or a this or that tranny, Conversions cost a mint and getting rid of one is because it does not work.
first thing to look for is body rust, especially the floor, then look under the body t the frame, do not be afraid to knock around with the handle of a screw driver for rust, if he complains, walk off he is hiding something.
when under the jeep look at the condition of the drive train, leaks, abuse, bends etc in the axles, drive shafts,tranny,t case, engine, oil pan dents.
if that looks good, get in and start it and check the steering for looseness and wander.
then look under the dash for splices in the electrical system
then look under the hood at the wiring and the condition of the air filter.
all the time during this the owner is going to be trying to sell you a Jeep, his practiced speech is going to try to direct you to this and that, do not say much to him, just humph and hummmm, looking at him with a strange look every once and a while and looking puzzled. Once you are convinced he is not trying to put one over on you, and having ignored everything he asked you to look at, look strait at him and tell him the jeep looks rough, and how much will he take for it. Never make an offer, when he comes back , if it is too much then hand him a card with your cell number and tell him you need to think about it. Tell him he can sell now, or he can wait till later, run your fingers over the wad of hundreds in your pocket and tell him to give you a call when he is serious.
bet you will not get out of the driveway before he discounts big time.
never give an offer, never agree with him, never follow his lead, you need him to be off balanced, it is called horse trading.
PS, I can buy a street queen here in SoCal for around 3 to 4 grand all day long. and the price goes up and down depending on condition. Lifts, equipment and accessories are not worth anything as you will probably end up changing it.
83 CJ7 350 tbi, TH350, D300 twin sticked & clocked, narrowed Chief D44 Eaton Elocker & Moser shafts, Explorer 8.8 Detroit locker, 410's, RE 4.5" spring lift 1" body lift, 35" Claws, cage tied to frame, Corbeau baja seats, HD tie rod and draglink, u-bolts flipped, custom skid plate and sliders, Warn 9.5ti winch with Amsteel synthetic line
DO NOT buy a "great stereo" , new tires, shiny new wheels, DO buy a frame, axles, drive train, and sound body.
If the add says SOA lift, don't even call.
If it has no title, pass on it.
If things look good go to the jiffy lube on the test drive and give the boy $10 to get you a sample of the different gear oils, front and back axles and Transfer Case / Transmission . Finding a milk shake is not the end of the world but it may drop the price a couple of $100.
Check the frame for cracks at the suspension mounts, and steering box mount.
Check for any rigged up mods, like on the carb, springs, tape, plugs, etc.
If your no wiring guru, why pay for a chopped up harness?
If the Transmission and Transfer Case are leaking, why pay for it?
Those are bargining points, tell the guy hey I'm gonna have to get the harness replaced and ask him to take a couple hundred off.
Take a basic mechnics set and pull the trand and Transfer Case fill plugs and stick
a finger inside to sample the level and quality of the fluid. If the owner objects
walk away. Jack up the front and wiggle the steering parts and pieces, wheel.
If everything flops around it's all parts to replace.
Pull the plugs or two it'll give you an idea of how it's running and the condition of the motor/fuel system.
Pop the oil fill cap and see if there is sludge, also the radiator cap look for proper fluid color and rust.
If the jeep has diamond plate panels attached be wary of whats under it, also the same for roll on liner. If it's fairly new liner it's hiding something.
Make sure the wipers work, heater, etc. Misc items like that can add up to big bucks if replacements are needed.
Again check the frame, suspension, body mounts, steering box, for rust and cracks.
67 cj5,225 Dauntless, D30,chrome molies, detroit, D44, full floating detroit, custom steering, disc all the way around,2 inch lift on 31s, armored up
70 cj6 4 inch lift
keep them coming guys, I think we have the beginnings of another sticky for the forum, I will combine quite a few of these after a few more post and we can sticky it as part of our combined work for great resources for the board.
Here is one of the best negotiating points I know of. The windshield frame.
About 85% of the time it is rusted and needs to be replaced, thats just one of those things. It's kind of like the tires wearing out.
This makes a good add to the "things I have to replace before it is worth what you say it is" list. Another couple of $100.
Don't forget emission systems or the lack of them, Legally, an inspection will be hard to come by with out all the original pumps and valves and the catalytic converter. The line here is "I will have to spend some major money to get a legal inspection on this thing, I just don't know if I can give you that much."
You can think of things like this two ways, first to make the most advantageous deal possible, the object here is to have the seller pay you to take the Jeep off his hands, if you can do this you have won and second, that problems like this will need attention sooner or later and that will cost you some bucks.
The more money you spend up front the less you'll spend later.
A stock jeep is alot better than a project, unless that's your thing
fixing up projects.
If you are going to buy a Jeep that's been lifted and modified be sure to really vet the seller and find out who did the work. Did he do it in his backyard or was it done professionally? I bought a CJ7 that had some mods, but the seller was a mechanic in the Army for 27 years and I really felt him out. I didn't commit until I had a good gut feeling that he was honest and up front and I knew what I was getting myself into.