wheel bearings

[JR74CJ5]

Think it would work out fine... Not sure you need that "kit" but probably couldn't hurt.

I'd check with local parts house. See if they have in stock a few of them. Take the front end apart if they do, and see what you actually need to put it back together. Remember the grease...

Assuming you have a second car...

 

[CJ7inNH]

Thanks again JR. Sounds like a plan!
I'll have access to my daily driver while things are out, I just hate have something apart for very long.

I know this is posted somewhere, but, would you recomend anything special for grease? - assuming that I'm not planning on crossing any large rivers with my rig just yet.

 

[JR74CJ5]

any grease for wheel bearings should work fine.

If you were planning to be hub deep in water often, i might suggest marine grease, but since you specifically said you're not, standard grease will be better i think.

 

[CJ7inNH]

Got the spindle nut socket today. Looking at cracking into this over the weekend. I saw a post that talked about putting things in the freezer or oven (below)?

i have allways used a brass punch to put the bearing races back in...i have also put the hub in the oven on a baking sheet and the race in the freezer.

What the heck is that all about?

Other posts/instructions made it seem pretty straight forward, but I'm also reading about special tools. I'd like to be all set to go when I start without having to go back out, well, maybe for more beer...

 

[JR74CJ5]

Some people swear it's easier to get tight fitting things where they should be this way. For instance, metal when frozen should "shrink" slightly as... (insert explanation that's over my head here).

Basically I have heard of this before, but I do not do it.

The post is describing expanding the hub or "female" section of the part you're "joining" by heating it (evenly in a oven) And the male section shrinking by putting it in the freezer... (no pun intended )

Remember if you do this, the inside of the bearing needs to go over the shaft too, so freezing the actual bearing could require you to wait longer, or have a harder time getting the shaft through it. Also freezing the race alone may also not allow the bearing to seat correctly.

Remember, I do not claim to be an expert, and do not have years of experience in this area. So if other post contradict my own, please put more stakes in their claims. Just talking out my assumptions here...


~ JR

 

[yellow85cj]

Cold metal shrinks, heated metal expands.

Cool the race and it shrinks a bit, heat the hub and it expands. Then the race is supposed to drop in or at least not fit tight enough to have to beat it in with a brass rod. Have to be quick about it though. When the temps equalize, everything is back to normal size.

I have found for the bearing races it is just as easy (actually easier) to use a brass drift to put the race in. A steel punch to get the race out.

You will see two little notches on the hub behind the race. This is where you need to use the punch to knock the race out.

 

[1986cj7]

Got the spindle nut socket today. Looking at cracking into this over the weekend. I saw a post that talked about putting things in the freezer or oven (below)?

i have allways used a brass punch to put the bearing races back in...i have also put the hub in the oven on a baking sheet and the race in the freezer.

What the heck is that all about?

Other posts/instructions made it seem pretty straight forward, but I'm also reading about special tools. I'd like to be all set to go when I start without having to go back out, well, maybe for more beer...

I've had to use a race heater at work, and there handy but you have to be quick about getting it on. Usually it is for very tight clearances and high speed eq. that run 24 hours a day 365 days a year. I've never had any trouble with wheel bearings or any other bearings. I try to use a piece of pipe or a socket that is the same size of the race as not to bugger up the race. I've cut PVC pipe down to use at work. Before I got a bearing race and seal set.

 

[CJ7inNH]

Heat expands, cold shrinks - makes sense. I've used heat enoug to get stuff unstuck.

I have the brass drifts. I may call around to a few local parts stores to see if they have the puller/driver to borrow.

Thanks for all the tips.

Hey JR, what's on the other side of that rock mnt?

 

[JR74CJ5]

Hey JR, what's on the other side of that rock mnt?

if your talking about my sig picture, its an ohv park here in CA.

Check out more pics and vids in the trail and trip report section . Was a fun day.
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f63/prairie-city-ohv-park-2-5-2012-a-12752/

 

[CJ7inNH]

Well, pulled the hub/rotor. Toughest part was getting the two torx bolts loose to get the caliper off. The spindle nuts were so loose I didn't need to use a wrench - that was my first warning that things could be ugly.

Outer bearing came out no prob and looked alright. I didn't have time to look carefully because I was distracted by the noise of little bearings hitting the floor. The inner one was completely mangled. The inside of the hub got chewed up too.

Looks like I'm getting a new set of hubs and rotors.

Now to start the search on hubs/rotor replacement...

 

[LASTCJ786]

Stage 8 lock nuts work with Dana 30 's too.

 

[73CJ]

Looks like I'm getting a new set of hubs and rotors.

Now to start the search on hubs/rotor replacement...

Well I'm not Sure why you're going for hubs and rotors. I'm not seeing anything out of the norm. Knockout the races and clean things up.

If the nuts were loose, the lock tab wasn't bent over.

 

[CJ7inNH]

I couldn't actually get the nuts off without bending the washer back over, but it was all still real loose.

I get that the races will form the "clean" surface for the bearings to rest in, and if the hub was just scratch up I'd be cool with it, but there are one or two spots where the metal in the hub is gouged up - not scraped in, up. I could probably get a small grinding bit from a dremil in there, but at this point I'd feel safer with new. Not into spending the cash on that though.

I like the extra security of the stage 8.

LASTCJ - where in MA are you located?

Thanks.

 

[LASTCJ786]

I'm in Shrewsbury, ma .I love the stage 8. I have a spare set that I can sell to you at a good price.

PatriotJeepers@aol.com

 

[CJ7inNH]

Thanks for the offer LASTCJ. Shrewsbury isn't too far from Nashua. I'm going to reinstall with what I have right now (the right way this time). I'll add the Stage 8 to the list of possible purchases down the road.

I registered with PatriotJeepers. See you around...

 

[CJ7inNH]

Hey LASTCJ786,

I started a new thread on this, but thought I could ask you direct.

Off hand do you know what the hub oil seal should look like? I've got two different looking ones that came in through two diff orders/companies.

One has the rubber seal on one side, the other side is flat with no rubber.
The other one has the rubber seal on both sides. I'm at work so I don't have the pic handy. It's on my post from yesterday.

The seals are all the same size. Slide right into the old hub, tight, but no force needed to get them in. On the new hub they really need to be pounded on to fit the new hub - not sure it will even fit.

Is it possible that the old hub "stretched"?

Thanks.