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Wiring issue - won't start

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Wiring issue - won't start
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explosion242

Jeeper
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Location
Peoria
Vehicle(s)
'76 CJ5
Hi guys, this is my first post but I've seen quite a bit of quality info on here so I thought I would see if I can get some of it.

I've recently re-wired my '76 CJ5 with a kit from RonFrancis.com.

I'm going through the pain of troubleshooting and this is my first rewire job. I have a new battery and I'm getting no battery drain and using a mutimeter it is giving about 12.5v which from what I've read, should be. I've got the column disassembled right now so to "use the key", Im really just moving the ignition switch position with a pair of neednose pliers. I've tested the solenoid and it seems to work and when the ignition switch is "on" it operates the solenoid and it seems to work. I can test this with the mutimeter. The issue is that I'm not sure how I can test the starter while it is on the jeep. I thought I read that the initial surge will power the starter then the voltage drops. So I'm wondering how this works with my ignition switch since it seems to only have a few positions. Does it send the initial surge at first then drop off or is there and actual position that the switch needs to be in for that to happen? I guess what I'm saying is that I'm seeing the drop in voltage when testing from the solenoid to the starter. From there how can I test the starter it only gets power at a certain time? Is this a two person job? One to turn the key the other to be there to test at that time? Just working though some issues one at a time. :)

Thanks in advance!
 
If you believe it might be the starter, pull it and take it to your local Auto Zone to have it tested.

When you turn the key you are pushing the rod to the ignition switch all the way forward. Once it starts the key pulls back one notch. When all the way forward it sends voltage to the starter relay, usually located on the fender well. This allows the eclectic to go from the battery to the starter. Once it starts, the electric is disconnected and the starter turns off. That's about all I can tell you for now, as I don't know if the wiring harness you are using has the same colored wires as OEM. This is a big problem when people ask for help. I rebuilt my harness and used the same colors so as to not confuse me or somebody else. It really is not hard to do. If you still are having problems, send us a link to the diagram that came with you kit, or scan it and post as a picture.
 
:ww: :dbanana:

When you turn the key to 'start', the voltage to the coil is 12vdc. All starter systems do this as to compensate for the starter's drain on the battery.
After the engine starts and you release the key. The IGN is now in 'run' mode and voltage to the coil is 6-9vdc. The starter is removed from the circuit in this key position.
Note-If you continue to hold the key in the start' position. The starter will continue to spin, to try and engage the flywheel.
I too say to have the starter tested.
Put the battery on a charger for a few hrs also.
LG
 
So I was able to pull off the starter and take it to AutoZone to get it tested and it's good. When it gets about 12.5v it activates. I've put it back on but I'm only getting about 2.5v on the starter post from the solenoid when key is in "start" position and it drops down to about 1.5v when not in "start" position.

One thing I've noticed is that when I hook up the "1 gn > start sol" wire that goes from the battery post on the solenoid right to the ignition switch I get a huge drop (1.9v) in voltage . How can I test the ignition switch or is this an issue? Sometimes a turn signal light comes on and I can turn on the lights. Other times those do not work.

It looks like there is some big drain happening and I wanted to see what others suggest or think might be wrong.

Thanks again!
 
Charge your battery up, and disconnect the POS(+) lead while doing so.
My bet, the drain is from within the ALT.
Not sure what's going on with that solenoid........:confused:
LG
 
I'll give that a shot. Any suggestions on how to test the alternator or as to troubleshoot the drain from it?

As for the solenoid, it is external and I'm about to take it off and seriously test it. It seems to be working at times and other times not.
 
Send a PM to member 'Posi'. He can walk you through it.
You do have a volt/ohm meter.
LG
 
explosion242 said:
I've tested the solenoid and it seems to work and when the ignition switch is "on" it operates the solenoid and it seems to work.
Click to expand...
The solenoid should not be activated with the key on, the solenoid is activated with the ignition switch in the “start” position.

Do the tests below and post up your results.

Make sure the Transmission is in natural and e-brake on,
Use a jumper wire from the + post of the BATT to the S post of the starter solenoid. If it doesn't turn the engine over do the next test

With the positive wire still attached, add a jumper wire from the negative post of the BATT to the base of the starter solenoid.

Make sure all connections are clean and tight.




 
Posi-Is there a section on this forum that has this and other test procedures?
LG
 
I'm not sure LG, maybe, I never searched.
 
My search FOO is not the best, but I did look around. Didn't find anything.
Your electrical knowledge is very helpful. :notworthy:
LG
 
I ran a jumper wire from the pos batt post to the starter post on the solenoid and it tried cranking. I'm assuming there is an issue with the solenoid. I'm going to pull that off and test it and replace it if necessary. Let's see what happens and I'll report back with any issues.

Thanks!
 
Best not to assume.

Did you do the ground test?
If not you should do it before removing the solenoid.

Posi said:

Do the tests below and post up your results.

Make sure the Transmission is in natural and e-brake on,
Use a jumper wire from the + post of the BATT to the S post of the starter solenoid. If it doesn't turn the engine over do the next test

With the positive wire still attached, add a jumper wire from the negative post of the BATT to the base of the starter solenoid.

Make sure all connections are clean and tight.
Click to expand...
 
explosion242 said:
I ran a jumper wire from the pos batt post to the starter post on the solenoid and it tried cranking. I'm assuming there is an issue with the solenoid. I'm going to pull that off and test it and replace it if necessary. Let's see what happens and I'll report back with any issues.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

What gauge wire as this is a high AMP draw?
What do you mean when you say 'it tried cranking'?
LG
 
I've replaced the solenoid to be sure and if I use a jumper wire, I can engage the starter. It does not engage the starter when I use the key to the start position. That makes me believe it may be in the ignition switch? I will contact the support at Ron Francis tomorrow to see if they can assist. It appears that everything is correctly hooked up so I should at least be engaging the starter when trying to start.

I'm not sure of the guage of the wire but it is the wire that came with the kit.
 
Test the + side of the coil, and -Batt, with the key in the on position (not start). What is your voltage?

With the probes in the same locations what is your voltage reading with the key in the start position?
 
explosion242 said:
With the key "off" the coil positive post is 0. With it "on" it is 12.19 voltage.
Click to expand...

When you get a chance can you do the second part of the test?

Posi said:
Test the + side of the coil, and -Batt, with the key in the on position (not start). What is your voltage?

With the probes in the same locations what is your voltage reading with the key in the start position?
Click to expand...
 
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