Wiring issue - won't start
Torxhead
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
Really! that is a bit much, I would check the battery next.
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Wiring issue - won't start
- Thread starter explosion242
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Really! that is a bit much, I would check the battery next.
Peanut Butter
Full Time Jeeper
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Also I own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, White, all stock with 4.0L. automatic, and police package. Best part of that is it came with leather seats! This package also has the NP242 Transfer Case, 8.25 rear end, and trailer towing package.
It is also possible that the new harness doesn't have a resister wire in it. If fact I would bet on it. If that is true you need to install an inline diode.
Posi
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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From your previous posts,
You have a new battery.
The engine does not crank over when you turn the try to the start position.
If the above is true you should have battery voltage at the coil, not 16.5v-17v
A few more tests are in order.
Disconnect the coil wire at the distributor and ground it on the engine block. With the key in the start "cranking" position what is your voltage on the coil positive post?
Confirm you have 12v at the ignition switch
Does your Jeep have an auto or manual Transmission ?
If auto, confirm 12v on either side of neutral switch in the start position.
You have a new battery.
The engine does not crank over when you turn the try to the start position.
If the above is true you should have battery voltage at the coil, not 16.5v-17v
A few more tests are in order.
Disconnect the coil wire at the distributor and ground it on the engine block. With the key in the start "cranking" position what is your voltage on the coil positive post?
Confirm you have 12v at the ignition switch
Does your Jeep have an auto or manual Transmission ?
If auto, confirm 12v on either side of neutral switch in the start position.
Posi
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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I don't believe the 76 used a ballast resistor wire that ran from the panel block to the coil. IIRC it was a red wire going out from the ignition switch and spliced before the coil, the splice went in three directions, coil, ignition module, and voltage regulator. Most all ignition switch feed wires were yellow.
explosion242
Jeeper
I do have 12.5v at the ignition switch. I'll test the coil tomorrow but I'm also attaching some images that show the resistor. Tomorrow I'll try to answer any other questions that you guys may have as well.
explosion242
Jeeper
Here are the images of the resistor.
explosion242
Jeeper
I also have a manual Transmission . I thought I read that CJ5 's do not have a nuetral safety switch so I've not tested for that but i did look before and could not find one.
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No CJ ever had a NSS on a manual. Thank god-
LG
LG
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The first picture is the ballast resistor for the coil.
The second is an external voltage regulator.
LG
explosion242
Jeeper
I unplugged the coil wire to the distributor and grounded it and tested while cranking and got readings that jumped up from about 12.5 to 13.6v.
I can supply pics as needed of course.
I can supply pics as needed of course.
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What do you get for voltage in the run postion on you ign switch? SB 6-9 VDC max.
LG
LG
jafo
Old Time Jeeper
Hi guys, this is my first post but I've seen quite a bit of quality info on here so I thought I would see if I can get some of it.
I've recently re-wired my '76 CJ5 with a kit from RonFrancis.com.
I'm going through the pain of troubleshooting and this is my first rewire job. I have a new battery and I'm getting no battery drain and using a mutimeter it is giving about 12.5v which from what I've read, should be. I've got the column disassembled right now so to "use the key", Im really just moving the ignition switch position with a pair of neednose pliers. I've tested the solenoid and it seems to work and when the ignition switch is "on" it operates the solenoid and it seems to work. I can test this with the mutimeter. The issue is that I'm not sure how I can test the starter while it is on the jeep. I thought I read that the initial surge will power the starter then the voltage drops. So I'm wondering how this works with my ignition switch since it seems to only have a few positions. Does it send the initial surge at first then drop off or is there and actual position that the switch needs to be in for that to happen? I guess what I'm saying is that I'm seeing the drop in voltage when testing from the solenoid to the starter. From there how can I test the starter it only gets power at a certain time? Is this a two person job? One to turn the key the other to be there to test at that time? Just working though some issues one at a time.
Thanks in advance!
No wiring expert here but, How old are your battery cables? Didn't see where you said you replaced those too. Cables can look just fine from the outside, and nothing but corrosion inside. Been there before.
Just an idea.