Wonder-ing about steering?

[LongHorn]

LH did you buy or fab this up and if Ive understood what I've read it needs to be as close to parrallel as posible w the drag link

It & the drag link should be as close to parallel with the ground as you can get it. That pic is of my rig, before I had done any suspension work.
The track bar was PO fab.

 

[LongHorn]

This is how it look's now.

 

[tvince]

I am feeling inspired It looks like from frame to left of pumpkin is the length of that one but I would guess the longer the better? using a shock in same configuration was a brinstorming point me myself and I had

 

[CJ]

tvince, unless you know what caster you have now and whet you should have (around 6 Degrees), you need to take a measurement...

What is your cater now?

 

[tvince]

I have no idea what caster I have now not sure where you meant to put the angle finder on the knuckle if I understand all this its the angle of the pivot

 

[CJ]

You need to measure the knuckle angle...

 

[tvince]

Thanks I will do that I am very curious, and I feel like I'm on my way to getting this resolved or maybe at least I'll add to the list of what ain't causing my prob
GREAT FORUM!

 

[CJ]

It's a pretty sure bet that you shackles have messed up your caster - we hope to repair that!

 

[IOPort51]

You need to measure the knuckle angle...

This is fascinating!!
So if you use a suspension, spring lift, it should not change the castor because it lifts symmetrically. And the same can be said for a spring over conversion but a shackle lift will have to change the geometry and require adjustment, IE angled shims.
This is all pretty profound stuff for me, I have that much more admiration for the Horn’s monster. To set that “8” to stay between the ditches was quite a trick

 

[IOPort51]

This is fascinating!!
So if you use a suspension, spring lift, it should not change the castor because it lifts symmetrically. And the same can be said for a spring over conversion but a shackle lift will have to change the geometry and require adjustment, IE angled shims.
This is all pretty profound stuff for me, I have that much more admiration for the Horn’s monster. To set that “8” to stay between the ditches was quite a trick

CJ you asked me to tell you when I was getting different font size in a post, is this evedent on your end??

 

[LongHorn]

This is fascinating!!
So if you use a suspension, spring lift, it should not change the castor because it lifts symmetrically. And the same can be said for a spring over conversion but a shackle lift will have to change the geometry and require adjustment, IE angled shims.
This is all pretty profound stuff for me, I have that much more admiration for the Horn’s monster. To set that “8” to stay between the ditches was quite a trick

The shackle reverse helps on road tracking. Keeping your drag link as parallel as possible to the ground, eliminates bump steer.

 

[Old Dog]

CJ you asked me to tell you when I was getting different font size in a post, is this evedent on your end??

And here I thought you were doing that on purpose.

 

[tvince]

Well I measured the caster several times starting fresh each time axle at tire on level, hoping Im doin it right some eyeballing required, but the best reading I got was +1/2 deg that was once all other readings were at "0" even if I put the 3" shacles on in place of the 4.75 I will still need shims to get to 6 deg.
I guess my plan will be to put the 3" shackles on then remove rotor and get a good (less eyeballing) reading and order correct shims.
Any suggestions tips or info is always appreciated.
Thanks again
I hope this will be the final fix for this issue

 

[IOPort51]

And here I thought you were doing that on purpose.

Nope, not me Dog, not that clever.

How do you decide you are level with the earth?? What if you are parked up hill? We are only talking about 3 degrees here; a degree or two would hardly be noticeable and have a large impact on the camber reading. I am wondering if leveling the rear spring mount front and front spring mount rear would be relevant. You could check camber angle all day long and not find a relevant reading.
I would have thought the long shackles would have caused the camber to increase rather than decrease. I seem to remember 3 degrees forward being discussed, and if you have less than that and remove the shackle you will end up with no camber or even a negative camber?


this is a good thread I can't wait to see how this all turns out.

 

[tvince]

Update
Installed factory height shackles (3") down from (4 3/4") front and rear and 6 deg shims total caster now reads just over 6 drove it and wow what a difference I noted firmer steering right from the get go! This issue now marked as solved!
Thanks again

 

[Petescj]

Good news. Glad you got it corrected.

 

[LongHorn]

Update
Installed factory height shackles (3") down from (4 3/4") front and rear and 6 deg shims total caster now reads just over 6 drove it and wow what a difference I noted firmer steering right from the get go! This issue now marked as solved!
Thanks again

Anytime, glad to be of service.

 

[CJ]

Update
Installed factory height shackles (3") down from (4 3/4") front and rear and 6 deg shims total caster now reads just over 6 drove it and wow what a difference I noted firmer steering right from the get go! This issue now marked as solved!
Thanks again

Great to hear that!

Proves why lifting a CJ the correct way is not hard nor complicated but should be done correctly!