Won't return to center.

Won't return to center.
B

biggwrench

Jeeper
Posts
31
Thanks
1
Location
weeki wachee,florida
Vehicle(s)
1980 cj7 ,304
Ok jeepers. I'm out of ideas.
I'm finishing up the restoration of a 1980 CJ7 . And nothing I do seems to fix the steering. (does not return to center). Dana 30
I've checked castor 6'. Toe 1/8 in. Toe in. Verified steering gear is centered. Changed ball joints steering linkage and tie rod joints. Changed u joints on drive axles at hubs.
The jeep has a 4 in lift stock shackels 1 in body lift. 35 in tires
Nothing seems to work. So I'm ready to give up. Unless someone sees something I've missed . It's time go to a shop .
Anyone have any ideas ......Or experience with shops in tampa fla. That can handle this mess.
 
You've got the caster the correct way? Top of the knuckle tilts back. No offense, just checking.


Wooly
 
Have you verified a positive castor? meaning the ball joint axis is tilted back. I run 9 degrees with no issues.
 
biggwrench said:
Ok jeepers. I'm out of ideas.
I'm finishing up the restoration of a 1980 CJ7 . And nothing I do seems to fix the steering. (does not return to center). Dana 30
I've checked castor 6'. Toe 1/8 in. Toe in. Verified steering gear is centered. Changed ball joints steering linkage and tie rod joints. Changed u joints on drive axles at hubs.
The jeep has a 4 in lift stock shackels 1 in body lift. 35 in tires
Nothing seems to work. So I'm ready to give up. Unless someone sees something I've missed . It's time go to a shop .
Anyone have any ideas ......Or experience with shops in tampa fla. That can handle this mess.
Click to expand...
Could your steering box worm gear be adjusted to tightly?:chug:
 
If you raise the front wheels off the ground are you able to to move the wheels left to right by hand without excess effort? If the caster and toe are correct then there is something causing a restriction to movement such as the steering gear box as mentioned or frozen bearings in the knuckles or?
 
You said you changed the ball joints, did you make sure the knuckles turned free after you changed them? Just another thought.
 
For reference, I have a narrow track running either 33x12.5 ATs or 34x10.5 LTBs. I have a 3" black diamond lift with maybe an inch of shackle lift and had to shim to get to 6 positive. Mine kind of centers but not really.

If all those things others suggested check out, you might need to add a couple more degrees to get the return you want or just run it to keep the pinion angle okay.


Wooly
 
What's the camber sit'n at now?
4" lift, you need shims to correct it back to OEM specs.
LG
 
Update:
Today I double checked the breakaway torque on the hubs and they are in spec. ( the ball joints were changed because of a frozen lower joint. And the axle u joints were changed because of convince).I rechecked Castor and it is at 5.5 to 6' + castor.
So my next move ..I found some yj 6' shims in the shop. Gonna cut them down to cj size and see if it improves. 12' seems drastic but if it works then it's time to turn the knuckle. Also I really haven't messed with the steering box , except for centering.the box is an old agr. Power unit. I installed it about 15 yrs ago. I don't recall ever messing with the adjustment. Is there a way to check the steering gear adjustment?
Also I would like to say thanks for the help your input is appreciated.
 
No real help with your post, but..... You gotta love where people are from. Weeki Wachee, Florida? ;) Now that's a good one! :poke: Good luck resolving your problem. Rod
 
If you question the box you might want to see a local shop that does rebuild them. Another possibility would be to get a rebuilt box like a Cardone from an auto parts.
 
Again-CAMBER ;)
Use steel shims, as alloy type 'pound-out' over time.
LG
 
The shims are only a temp install. I personally don't like the idea of shims. If the shims correct the problem then I'm going to turn the inner c . Although I don't have much faith that the castor is the issue.
I'm leaning towards the steering box. It doesn't need an overhaul. So I'm going to have to figure out how to adjust it.any suggestions on how to adjust a AGR. Power steering box?
 
Nut'n wrong with using steel shims(with-in reason).
Last time I'll say this--CHECK YOUR CAMBER.
If your camber is out of spec. Non-return to center, is a common symptom.
LG
 
biggwrench said:
The shims are only a temp install. I personally don't like the idea of shims. If the shims correct the problem then I'm going to turn the inner c . Although I don't have much faith that the castor is the issue.
I'm leaning towards the steering box. It doesn't need an overhaul. So I'm going to have to figure out how to adjust it.any suggestions on how to adjust a AGR. Power steering box?
Click to expand...

Call AGR.
LG
 
Do not adjust the worm nut on top of the box. It is preadjusted for the correct preload while the wheel is straight. You will mess up your box if its not right.

I picked up a CJ once that had sat for a while.....the steering was VERY stiff. Not only would it not return to center, but I thought the PS pump was shot as there was no power felt at all. It ended up being the upper u-joint in the steering shaft. lots of lube, heat, and a hammer would barely move it. We replaced it and it drove like new....
check the steering shaft joint.
 
I checked the steering shafts on installation and it was fine so I can rule that out.
As far as camber , I was not aware camber affected the return to center. I assumed that was a miss print.guess it's time to study up on camber. Thanks
 
The 3 players in front end alignment --
Toe-in
Camber
Caster
Dana 30 front have the 'C&C' set when the axle is built. Only the toe-in is user adjustable.
When you 'lift', you have to bring 'C&C' back to spec. Steel shims under the axle spring pad will correct the error.
You can get steel shims from a outfit that handles semi-truck maintenance.
Also-You will need longer center-bolts for your spring packs, to attach the shims.
LG
 
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