Won't return to center.

[Tinman22]

I have never seen a front or rear lift spring that will alter the factory pinion angles. Factory camber should be 0 =. so unless you rotate the axle some ungodly amount it is still 0. Front springs are typically made with a 0 degree axle placement meaning where the axle bolts on is level in relation to the planet.This is done for several reasons mostly because its easier than shims. Shims used on rear springs are there usually to compensate for unacceptable u-joint angles at the axle that would cause binding at full droop therefore u-joint failure. Ironically since the rear spring is also manufactured with a 0 degree placement angle this shim results in driveshaft angles that are out of phase and will also cause u-joint failure (but at least it isn't vibrating right?) So now we drop the Transfer Case an inch or so to decrease that u-joint angle now they are close enough to not vibrate. Anyway you said your break away measurement was good at the spindles. Assuming you meant steering and not ball joint/steering.Next would be the box adjustments providing everything in between the axle and box is good. First on the back of the box (where the steering shaft goes in) loosen the big jam nut then using either a spanner or hammer and punch turn the inner piece till its snug then back it off then go finger tight. when correct there will be no thrust either in nor out but you may still have some lateral movement thats ok. Next is the sector shaft adjustment. (this is where everyone says NOOOO!) ANYWAY. with the front wheels in the air loosen the jam nut now screw the allen bolt set screw DOWN until you feel tension , this is the gear teeth touching. Now turn the input shaft from left to right an equal distance from center while tightening the set screw until you feel light tension but not drag. now tighten all the jam nuts. done. I have run as little as 4 deg of caster with a good damper and been ok. My current axle is set at 12 degrees caster (dana 60) and drives very well at turnpike speeds (70 plus). with an agr box and hydraulic assist.

 

[Tinman22]

assuming you meant steering and not ball joint/steering

I meant assuming you measured steering breakaway and not wheel bearing breakaway

 

[biggwrench]

Well here's an up date on the steering. Apparently this was not as simple as one problem. It was a collection of problems. First problem and where I started was the castor. Castor was set incorrect. Unfortunately by me originally way back in my early 20s when I still knew everything . So castor was reset to 6'.
Problem 2 frozen ball joints. So new joints.
Problem 3 frozen pass side ty rod joint. New joints.
Problem 4 agr steering box doesn't return to center. So I temp installed a 1995 wrangler box .so now it returns to center.
So here's my next question, during the parts changing and testing I set the castor to 12' and the steering returned to center better than at 6'. Does anyone know if 12' will have any adverse effects on a Dana 30 . After I reclock the inner c.

 

[Woolyworm]

I don't think the 30 will care. You'll actually be getting more fluid in there with it tipped back I think. I'd be more concerned about your driveshaft I joints binding and or being out of sync with each other degree wise. Ideally you want the pinion angle and the Transfer Case angle to offset each other, so if you go with 12 your pinion points down in the back I imagine and your tcase is still at the factory so you may get some vibration and or binding. Glad your getting it straightened out - hah!


Wooly

 

[Lumpy Grits]

The ring gear, is a very good oil 'slinger'.
Think of a paddle wheel
LG

 

[Lumpy Grits]

OP- what are the updates?
LG