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1985 CJ7 with 258 manual Transmision Won't start

1985 CJ7 with 258 manual Transmision Won't start
Posts
14
Thanks
0
Location
Oregon
Vehicle(s)
1980 CJ7, 1985 cJ7
Any ideas on how to get this thing to run? I had it running a few times. I have replaced everything I can think of, Ignition switch, rotor, Dist cap, Plugs, wires, Megnetic trigger, Coil, Temp nutter by-pass, carb kit. !2 volts, spark, just wont run.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qhn3_rKLj5M
Thanks for your help.
Butch
 
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here is a sticky that might help you:http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f99/engine-wont-start-troubleshooting-guide-19494/
It does fire though, I was thinking that the fuel pump could have gone bad or just the fact that you do not seem to be getting fuel. Just how did it get to that point? Like did the rework something?
Thanks for sending in that video it really helps. I hope it is currently parked in a nice warm garage.
Edit: as I think more on this there is a primary and secondary ignition system on the CJ, and maybe your secondary is not coming in. Like if you got some wires mixed up it would cause it to shut off.
 
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See if this is any help.
Table of Contents

Run a jumper wire from the POS(+)of the battery to the POS terminal on the coil.
Will it stay running now? If so-You most likely have an issue with the ign switch.
Don't run it more than about 5 minutes like this-you'll fry the coil. Pull the wire to shut off the engine.
Sounds like it dies when you release the key from start position.

LG
 
Last edited:
here is a sticky that might help you:http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f99/engine-wont-start-troubleshooting-guide-19494/
It does fire though, I was thinking that the fuel pump could have gone bad or just the fact that you do not seem to be getting fuel. Just how did it get to that point? Like did the rework something?
Thanks for sending in that video it really helps. I hope it is currently parked in a nice warm garage.
Edit: as I think more on this there is a primary and secondary ignition system on the CJ, and maybe your secondary is not coming in. Like if you got some wires mixed up it would cause it to shut off.

I have gone thru that guide. I dont have a resistor in mine (at least I haven't found one). I have tried everything else. I do only have 4.47 volts from the solenoid in the run position. I thought that it should be 7 volts. I adjusted the ignition switch to see if I had that out of adjustment to no avail.
 
See if this is any help.
Table of Contents

Run a jumper wire from the POS(+)of the battery to the POS terminal on the coil.
Will it stay running now? If so-You most likely have an issue with the ign switch.
Don't run it more than about 5 minutes like this-you'll fry the coil. Pull the wire to shut off the engine.
Sounds like it dies when you release the key from start position.

LG
I tried that too Lumpy. No luck.
 
The resister wire is in the loom running from the dizzy wiring, along the firewall.
What other tests have you done?
Have you ck'd the ign module on the D/S fender under the 'bottle'?
Will the engine run if you keep the key in the 'start' position?
LG
 
So, I tried to see if I had a blinking light on the green wire to the coil and it started. Didn't run long sounded bad. Needs timing set and carb adjusted if I can get it running again.
 
The resister wire is in the loom running from the dizzy wiring, along the firewall.
What other tests have you done?
Have you ck'd the ign module on the D/S fender under the 'bottle'?
Will the engine run if you keep the key in the 'start' position?
LG

I had the ICM tested 8 times and it passed every time. The engine will not run if you hold it in start. Wondering if grounding the green coil wire somehow made it start. This thing is driving me nuts.
 
Have the ICM tested at another location/store.
Electrical intermittent's, have caused more membership increases in AA than any other known issue. :laugh:
LG
 
I had the ICM tested 8 times and it passed every time. The engine will not run if you hold it in start. Wondering if grounding the green coil wire somehow made it start. This thing is driving me nuts.

That green wire from the negative terminal on the coil goes to the icm and the #1 diagnostic connector. If you were to buy another icm for test purpose, it would also be good for a spare. That video does not show a typical icm issue, but I would not discount it as one.
 
IF you do buy anther-Go to NAPA, and get their top of the line. Auto Zone and such, sell the cheapest China :dung: made and they don't last!
LG
 
I did try that. I have a new ICM. I also had it tested. they both tested out OK. I may try what Lumpy suggests and go to another store for testing.
 
Be sure to disco the battery POPS(+) before you start the install.
LG
 

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