Build Thread 1986 CJ7 Build

[KRUPP]

I was thinking a good cleaning in an ultrasonic cleaner would probably be pretty easy to do.
I think somehow pulling cleaner backwards through them with a vac pump might work too.

These guys will do a cleaning/restoration for $25 ea, plus shipping. Not bad really, considering I paid over $100 ea for new ones.
https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/

 

[gert]

Nice


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[KRUPP]

May 16, 23:

-Sent off my original/failing TBI injectors to Fuel Injector Connection in Georgia to be "refurbished". Fairly cheap at about $30ea, especially appealing since I'm just using them for spares.
-Along those same lines, I've recently collected other do-dads for spares as well. Such as...
TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor)
Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump Relay
-Ordered a weld-in front cage kit from D&C Extreme down in Colorado Springs. They set up my R&Ps for me this winter and are a great crew. Was planning on dry-fitting the assembly, tack-welding the joints, then removing the whole cage to weld on the ground, away from the Jeep.

 

[KRUPP]

May 20, 23:
-Waiting on the weld-in front roll cage parts. They are making up the pieces this week.
-In the meantime, I went down to the boneyard to look for a CJ roll bar for another guy on this forum. I took inventory of what's still down there. We have to start clearing things out because the building/shop/yard have to be sold. It's my elderly Father's.
I found a couple loose Dana 44 fronts (and some more rears too). I was hoping for some help with ID confirmation from you folks here. I'm 90% sure it's from a 70s Jeep Wagon or Truck. You guys agree?
I believe that this is a good donor starting point for the front of my CJ7 .

 

[KRUPP]

May 29:
-Worked on the cage. Turned out pretty good.
- I think I’ll use this time to have the interior lined with bed-liner. Found some rust had eaten through the floor beneath the factory roll bar mounting plate just behind the driver’s seat. Cut out the cancer and will weld in a patch.

 

[KRUPP]

June 2, 23:
- Cut and patch metal work done for rust at floor pan beneath roll bar mount. Overlap patch, since it’s under the mounting plate, made it easier. Primed and painted everything before and after.
Used some rust stabilizer first.
-Since I’m getting ready to Line-X the inside of the tub, I welded & ground all the unused holes in the floor.

 

[KRUPP]

June 20, 23:
-Picked up the Jeep from the Rhino Lining shop. Looks pretty good. Really tacky though and I'm wondering if that will stay or not. Time will tell.
-Installed the roll cage last night.
-Will work on reinstalling the seats, seat belts and the rest tomorrow.

 

[KRUPP]

July 5, 23:
-Got the seats, belts, wire loom, etc. all back in the tub.
-Noticed I had a pin hole leak right below the top neck on the radiator. Very tiny. Wire brushed it up good and dabbed a bit of JB Weld on it.
-Wife and I went for a ride on the 4th to a celebration at a local park. Rained like a son of a gun just when we got there - no top or doors. Fun!

-Wife and I went for a ride on the 4th to a celebration at a local park. Rained like a son of a gun just when we got there - no top or doors. Fun!

 

[KRUPP]

Anyone have a line on some of these floor plugs?
Need a few more of these metal ones because the plastic ones won't fit now with the Rhino lined floor.

 

[CJ]

Anyone have a line on some of these floor plugs?
Need a few more of these metal ones because the plastic ones won't fit now with the Rhino lined floor.

There are several that I have used from different vendors. Even Home Depot. Just depends on the size. They make them for sink faucet holes also.

Google Search

Everbilt 3/8 in. Metal Hole Plug 807768 - The Home Depot

Crown Bolt - 3/8 in. Metal Hole Plug 1 Pack - Allows you to fill holes. Made from steel. Nickel-plated finish. Prongs are adjustable. - THD SKU# 758386

www.homedepot.com

 

[KRUPP]

Thanks CJ. I did see some of those, but the only ones I've seen were chrome. Eee gawd, no chrome!
I might have found some at Jeg's, but pricey little guys.

 

[CJ]

Thanks CJ. I did see some of those, but the only ones I've seen were chrome. Eee gawd, no chrome!
I might have found some at Jeg's, but pricey little guys.

Yea, the stainless ones are out there but pricey and difficult to find.

 

[KRUPP]

Nov 24, 23:
Has been a while since posting/working on the CJ.
I recovered a front Dana 44 in the boneyard from a mid-70s Wagoneer. Over the next few months, I plan to strip and rebuild it to match the rear Scout II 44.
Tuff to load by myself, but got’r home.

 

[CJ]

Nice, what is that white stuff? Looks like FL sugar sand...

 

[KRUPP]

Nope CJ. Pretty damn cold here now and I’m wishing for that South Florida sugar sand. I like that Ft Lauderdale stuff.
Don’t have the heat setup yet in the garage and it’s rough.

 

[Project86]

There are several that I have used from different vendors. Even Home Depot. Just depends on the size. They make them for sink faucet holes also.

Google Search

Everbilt 3/8 in. Metal Hole Plug 807768 - The Home Depot

Crown Bolt - 3/8 in. Metal Hole Plug 1 Pack - Allows you to fill holes. Made from steel. Nickel-plated finish. Prongs are adjustable. - THD SKU# 758386

www.homedepot.com

Would the plugs for electrical boxes work?

 

[CJ]

Would the plugs for electrical boxes work?

I don't see why not. As long as they snap in.

 

[KRUPP]

Thanks for the comments on the floor plugs. Since I couldn't find more metal ones to match the existing, I ordered all new plastic ones from Amazon. They snapped in through the rhino-lined floor after breaking off a few of the little "tabs".

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[KRUPP]

Nov 27, 23:
Got the front housing tore down. Not too crusty at all, even after sitting on the ground for about 25 years.
Ready to remove the driver side shock mount and spring pad. Gotta be careful with the shock mount if I'm gonna re-use it.
Then, plan is to use my neighbor's porta-bandsaw to cut the long side tube.

I just noticed that my sticker on the tool box if very appropraite for this pic. Ha!

 

[Armyvet25]

Nov 27, 23:
Got the front housing tore down. Not too crusty at all, even after sitting on the ground for about 25 years.
Ready to remove the driver side shock mount and spring pad. Gotta be careful with the shock mount if I'm gonna re-use it.
Then, plan is to use my neighbor's porta-bandsaw to cut the long side tube.

I just noticed that my sticker on the tool box if very appropraite for this pic. Ha!

View attachment 100052

When installing, it seems you have no choice on the pass side where the spring mounts, how do you compensate for the wider axle not kicking out to the left offset? Frame spring mount modification?