Build Thread 1986 CJ7 Rebuild - Chasing my youth

[Masscj7]

Yes, the motor mount plates are beefy, I can’t see to tell who’s mounts they are.

I ordered a cross member from Chief Waho out Kansas. Good price, in stock and better than a Chinese replacement. And he spec’s them for CJ or YJ tubs.

Unfortunately I cheated myself and you guys with unboxing pics as I just snagged it from the FedEx Depot and ran it straight to my welder. I’ll post some pics of it installed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Belizean]

I ordered a cross member from Chief Waho out Kansas. Good price, in stock and better than a Chinese replacement. And he spec’s them for CJ or YJ tubs.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

He really makes a great quality piece for the back end !

 

[Masscj7]

Lots of things this week. Sent all my suspensions pieces out to sandblast and was able to get them Thursday. Sorry no pic of them blasted. I’ll get that tomorrow. Was lazy with the phone. .

This week’s every night project was the front end disassembled. Came apart not too bad. PO has beat the spindles pretty good, so those are going to be replaced. Loosing the ball joints without good impacts was a challenge, lots of heat and long leverage pipes. Breaking the ball joints from the yokes was a test too.

The worst though was trying to get the ball joint split locks out. But lots of patience, a homemade tool, lots of heat, and a BFH and I won! That felt really good



Was able to get the housing over to sandblast Thurs and they were kind enough to have ready today. So tomorrow will be my first attempt at paint and primer with epoxy and a gun.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Masscj7]

Let’s get it on. Gonna try slinging some paint.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Masscj7]

So that took way longer than I thought. Granted it was 15 pieces that were full or books and crannies. Never even got to the leaf spring leafs. Took a bit of getting used to the gun and it was windy as heck which made it very tough. Took a lot costs to get the build up I think I was looking for, seemed it was real light paint being laid do. I wonder if the wind was a big part of that.

Hoping this will be really durable. Used a Transtar 2k epoxy primer and then top coated with Inrom 3.5 polyurethane 2k. Looks good! We’ll see how it holds up.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Belizean]

They look good !

 

[Masscj7]

Last night was spent fighting the front axle shafts. Looked like they hadn’t been touched since 1986. I used to change them with just a vice, rented the C clamp tool from Advanced Auto for the ball joints and it worked awesome for these!! Best part is as long as you return it within 45 days, it’s FREE.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Masscj7]

Tonight was a short one, just a hub disassemble. Want to get these to sandblast with the axle shaft ends too. Think I’m getting an addiction to sandblast. I really wish I had my own set up.



Evening was short because I had to go meet up with my frame welder. Ohhhh yeahhh!!! She’s beautiful!!

Far cry from when I was chemical stripping it.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Masscj7]

Nothing more exciting then new shiny parts. Really like this Mastercoat system, takes a long time to harden up, but the weather wasn’t the warmest, so might have contributed it.

New cross member is beefy!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Masscj7]

So last couple days have been some ups and downs. I got new ball joints in the knuckles and got all the rest of the shiny new parts for the front end shipped in.



Then the first real set back of this project. I was just standing around looking at the front end and said, man, I need to clean some clogged up sand on the yoke. I start to spin the yoke and what the heck, it’s binding up and feels real, real gritty.

When I brought it to the sand blast place, they assured me the could blast and keep the media out of the pumpkin as that was something I did not want to dive into or spend the money on.

Well, it was full of media! Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!



Man, that is very irritating. So I gutted the housing last night and tonight got it cleaned and blasted out.



Originally I was not going to touch the differential, but now I’m weighing that since I had to pop everything out, might as well now explore the cost of a gearing change as I have 2.73s. But I’m hearing that if I want to go above those, I need to upgrade my carrier to accommodate the bigger gearing. So I’m not sure what I want to do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[caveman]

You can go to a 3:54 before changing carriers.

Sent from my LG-LS777 using Tapatalk

 

[gert]

looks like a fun project im very interested in seeing your progress

 

[Masscj7]

You can go to a 3:54 before changing carriers.

Sent from my LG-LS777 using Tapatalk

Really? That’s interesting, as I went to a very well recommended shop in the area (old timers, years of just differentials) and the place that multiple multiple people referred me to and they said I had to change carriers. Said from 3.08 up needed carrier change. Now I’m confused.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Posi]

3.08 is not correct
Front axle 3.54 down 3.73 up
Rear 3,73 down 3.92 up
The shop thought you had a 20 rear.


Edit: I looked back a your pics and found a front pic of your rear axle. Hard to see but I think I see a fill plug in the front which would made it a 20 unfortunately.
Most 86 CJs came with a rear 44.
If it is a 20 2.73 down 3.08 up.

 

[caveman]

Really? That’s interesting, as I went to a very well recommended shop in the area (old timers, years of just differentials) and the place that multiple multiple people referred me to and they said I had to change carriers. Said from 3.08 up needed carrier change. Now I’m confused.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was referring to the front axle in the picture without thinking about what you had for the rear.

Sent from my LG-LS777 using Tapatalk

 

[Masscj7]

No, all of this is in reference to my front Dana 30 at this point. I haven’t dissected the 20 yet. But at this point , if I’m going to upgrade the front because I had to pull to flush the sand, I might as well change the gearing.

So quick feeler, building mostly a road queen. Similar to what I’ve seen Posi doing, maybe some very moderate off reading, but mostly enjoying cruising around. Will be a SBC350, with Th350, and 33s. what’s everyone’s thoughts for a good gearing match for that set up and projected use. Let the opinions fly!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cglax6]

No, all of this is in reference to my front Dana 30 at this point. I haven’t dissected the 20 yet. But at this point , if I’m going to upgrade the front because I had to pull to flush the sand, I might as well change the gearing.

So quick feeler, building mostly a road queen. Similar to what I’ve seen Posi doing, maybe some very moderate off reading, but mostly enjoying cruising around. Will be a SBC350, with Th350, and 33s. what’s everyone’s thoughts for a good gearing match for that set up and projected use. Let the opinions fly!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd go with 3.73

Mine has a AMC 304 w/ a T-18 and 31" tires. Going to move up to 32s at some point. I have 3.73s and it's a good mix of street and trail capability.

I'm working on a 351w to replace the AMC 304 , but I plan on keeping the same ratio. I may go to 4.10, but it doesn't see the trails too much, so probably not. Lots of cruising on nice days.

 

[caveman]

A friend went with 3:54s so that he wouldn't have to buy new carriers. He's running 33" tires and he says it goes down the road real good. Not sure if He's done any off road with it yet. I have no experience of my own. I went from 3:07s to 4:11s for offroading and then to 4:88s.

Sent from my LG-LS777 using Tapatalk

 

[Posi]

The lowest numerically gear set I've owned was 3.54, and the highest numerically 5.38.
The 3.54s come standard from the factory on 76-79 CJ's so their plentiful as take-offs for those going with deeper gears.
3.54s are too fast offroad for your intended use (moderate).
If you stayed with light (easy) wheeling they should be ok.
Most folks I know say they will only do light wheeling will typically last for about a year before their upgrading for more challenging trails (light to moderate).
That doesn't mean they want to climb the hardest obstacle, they just want more control when they do go offroad and it beats staying on the brakes most of the trail.
I'm running 4.10s in my 77 CJ7 and I drive from Colorado Springs to Moab (8 hours) all highway and they work fine for me.
Bill D runs 3.73 and leaves me in the dust on the highway, same engine and FI however, Bill has 15lbs of lead in his right boot.
Even if Bill took his right lead filled boot off his CJ would still outrun mine on the highway.
I also have 4.10s in my 3B and do plenty of wheeling and run the road often.
For your intended use 3.54s, 3.73s, or 4.10s should work for you.

 

[Masscj7]

looks like a fun project im very interested in seeing your progress

Thanks Gert, your build has had me sucked in for hours!

Thanks for all the advice gents. Diff shop has a set of matched 3.55s, so think I’m going to go that route. Motor guy said that’ll turn my SBC at a nice spot too.

Let’s go buy some stuff!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk