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Agreed. This engine was swapped in ( Scramblers never got a V8 from the factory) and I think they probably just forgot exactly where it went. I checked the oil yesterday and it looks like it's fresh. Power steering is dry and the radiator smelled like a rodent met its demise in there. Definitely work to be done.
Hey Pete - We installed a Skip White HEI 6512-R distributor and eliminated the coil and amc ignition module and a bunch of rotten wiring. Works great and was easy to install. Even I could talk you through it. $62.50 w shipping on ebay lifetime warranty. Even the tach works. And yes we used the original gear on the new distributor even though the one that came with looks the same. The original one was already "worn" into the engine. Like Hedgehog stated you may have to fiddle a bit to get it to clear the PS pump. This distributor gets its ground from the engine. Only connect the hot (12 gauge red wire) for ignition and wire from the coil neg side for tach. Good reviews on the Skip White HEI from the FSJ site. You don't have to connect the tach wire if you don't have one.
On our V8 there is a heavy ground wire (not a strap) from the engine block to the frame and also another same gauge wire that goes from the block to the negative battery terminal. Because of rust on the body I installed a ground buss on the firewall inside and ran dedicated grounds to a bunch of things that depended on the frame/body for ground dc return. It was for things like the light circuit, windshield wipers, horn, additional gauges, elockers, dual 12v plug, CB, etc you get the idea. I used a ground buss bar like you would install in a Square D Breaker box in your home.
If you would like to talk more pm or email me and I'll send you my phone number and talk you though any electrical. Or we could Skype too. Electrical is something I actually know something about. I got all the lights and gauges to work on our 79. (except bu lights - switch is bad in Transmission but the wiring and bulbs are there when we replace it)
Hey Pete - We installed a Skip White HEI 6512-R distributor and eliminated the coil and amc ignition module and a bunch of rotten wiring. Works great and was easy to install. Even I could talk you through it. $62.50 w shipping on ebay lifetime warranty. Even the tach works. And yes we used the original gear on the new distributor even though the one that came with looks the same. The original one was already "worn" into the engine. Like Hedgehog stated you may have to fiddle a bit to get it to clear the PS pump. This distributor gets its ground from the engine. Only connect the hot (12 gauge red wire) for ignition and wire from the coil neg side for tach. Good reviews on the Skip White HEI from the FSJ site. You don't have to connect the tach wire if you don't have one.
On our V8 there is a heavy ground wire (not a strap) from the engine block to the frame and also another same gauge wire that goes from the block to the negative battery terminal. Because of rust on the body I installed a ground buss on the firewall inside and ran dedicated grounds to a bunch of things that depended on the frame/body for ground dc return. It was for things like the light circuit, windshield wipers, horn, additional gauges, elockers, dual 12v plug, CB, etc you get the idea. I used a ground buss bar like you would install in a Square D Breaker box in your home.
If you would like to talk more pm or email me and I'll send you my phone number and talk you though any electrical. Or we could Skype too. Electrical is something I actually know something about. I got all the lights and gauges to work on our 79. (except bu lights - switch is bad in Transmission but the wiring and bulbs are there when we replace it)
Oh good! Now I don't have to phone type so much. Just a few additions and clarifications. The distributor gets it's ground via the hold down clamp. Contact points on clamp must be clean. Hedgehog is right about cap clearance. Our AMC 304 originally had a smog pump, so the pulley is a 2 groove. All we needed to do was use a slightly longer belt. 4 trips back to the parts house, and we finally found the right one. I can post the mfgr and part # when I get home Friday, or the wife can go look and post it when she reads this. As for the W/P bypass hose, I first clamped it to the W/P then I rotated it slightly until it leaned away from the cap and tightened the clamp. I'm not positive, but I may have trimmed a half inch or so from the hose.
Last July, Posi and Rad were attacking every puddle, pond, creek or mud hole in their TJ rental jeep. After going through some water that I was sure would float them, and making it, I had to show them what a real Jeep could do! I lined up on the crossing and gave it h***! I could see the panic in oldjeeplady's eyes as we were about to hit! OK, a little too fast, and too far to the left of the crossing. The water came up over the hood, and the tub began to fill with water. #!@!!!. I thought we would have to be towed out, but the ignition never faltered. When I opened the hood, everything was wet up to the air cleaner, but still the engine fired.
I went this route on mine with an MSD cap and cap adaptor for larger size better terminals, then used MSD wires. Nice thing about this is you can replace any part of it at virtually any parts store in the country and it's a MAJOR improvement over the Prestolite. Major.
I went to NAPA and got a distributor and rotor for a 79 CJ7 then got the cap and cap adaptor at AutoZone. No need to change gears with this setup either.
If there is nothing wrong with the stock gear on your V8, keep it! The distributor gear and cam gear have been learning how to run happily together for thousands of miles, if you can, try not to mess up that relationship.
