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4.0 Swap w/Pictures

4.0 Swap w/Pictures
I got the majority of the wiring loomed up. No I of course have to pull most of the loom back out because I changed my mind on how I wanted to control my electric fans and bought a painless fan controller. It was expensive but the controller can sense the Vss and can be set to shut off the fan operation at Highway speeds when it is unnecessary.
 
Man you guys are flippin hilarious! Great write up as well, I did this whole other post about switching to a power brake booster. I am glad to hear about the hydroboost! I used an Offenhauser mani with my 4.0 head and I don't have the room for a brake booster. This is my new project for summer. So thanks again and I will subscribe. :chug:
 
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Man you guys are flippin hilarious! Great write up as well, I did this whole other post about switching to a power brake booster. I am glad to hear about the hydroboost! I used an Offenhauser mani with my 4.0 head and I don't have the room for a brake booster. This is my new project for summer. So thanks again and I will subscribe. :chug:

The hydra boost is Very straight forward fairly inexpensive swap if you live near a junk yard.
 
The engine is compartment is almost complete. All that is left is some routing for the wires that run under to the Transmission , re-install a charcoal system, Wire the fan and run the wires that will be needed into the cab for CHk engine fan bypass tach etc etc, put the reservoir bottles back in, and figure out how to permanently mount the air box to the fender.

The Fan wiring is a painless kit. It was big $$ but it actually senses the VSS from the system so it can be set to not operate the cooling fan at a predetermined speed. Also the sensor for the kit is the exact same part as the sensor for the 4.0 system so most likely I can piggy back off of that and avoid having to place an extra sensor in the radiator hose. I am going to take the fan wiring down across the space between the rad and the decorative wire cover that runs along the valve cover into the wiring harness and run the fuse for the controller through the PDC directly.

The only variable I havent figured out is if I can get a tire jack in the compartment somehow. THe OEM one interferes with the location of the PDC. I am flirting with the idea of a YJ set up which I know is on the passenger fender on top but I cannot find a good picture of the mount on google to get an idea of whether I will have anywhere near enough room with the TJ breather. My guess is fat chance, but maybe I can finagle the room I need.
 
Thats looking really good
 
Very nice I like, 1986 Jeep with modern day fuel injection and powerful brakes. Can you make a mount to move you PDC higher so you jack will fit under it? Also I wonder if you pull the split loom off your rubber hoses if that might trick your eyes into thinking its not as busy as it is... just a thought. It loks good and I bet it runs good to :chug:
 
Finally got the floor shifter welded up with am original T-5 shaft. Now it clears the console in 2,4,r.
 
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I love Red Heads, :jeeplove:
Nice, very nice. A+
You Wrangled that right in. :laugh:

You can ditch the air box with a tube w/a K & N and have room for your jack.
Replace the black tape with the plastic loom clips. Jeeps are not climate controlled.

Seeing this makes me want to stop work on the 2A and start on the 7. All the parts are being gathered inside it and I am running out of room. First I will put in the 4.3 on the replacement frame with stock RG Dana 30 AMC20 T-176 Dana 300 , get it running and then fix the original frame w/my Dana 44 `s T-18 & Twin Stick Dana 300 and w/ the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l w/FI.
Tomorrow have to work on my brothers XJ Front Bumper Warn Brush Guard install, and I will eyeball his 4.0 Red Head.

:ty: , :rock:
 
I love Red Heads, :jeeplove:
Nice, very nice. A+
You Wrangled that right in. :laugh:

You can ditch the air box with a tube w/a K & N and have room for your jack.
Replace the black tape with the plastic loom clips. Jeeps are not climate controlled.

Seeing this makes me want to stop work on the 2A and start on the 7. All the parts are being gathered inside it and I am running out of room. First I will put in the 4.3 on the replacement frame with stock RG D30 AMC20 T-176 D300, get it running and then fix the original frame w/my D44`s T-18 & Twin Stick D300 and w/ the 258 w/FI.
Tomorrow have to work on my brothers XJ Front Bumper Warn Brush Guard install, and I will eyeball his 4.0 Red Head.

:ty: , :rock:

I have an Idea for a jack mount. Ill stay away from those silly after market KN cold air style intakes.

What black tape are your referring to? This jeep will eventually have climate control and cruise control! I know, heresy, right!
 
Silly, they will give you up to 25hp .
The black tape wrapped all around your loom. If you can not find the plastic T`s & clips (P.I.C.O.), get very small black zips and cut off extra.

How`s it been running?
 
Silly, they will give you up to 25hp .
The black tape wrapped all around your loom. If you can not find the plastic T`s & clips (P.I.C.O.), get very small black zips and cut off extra.

How`s it been running?

Been running pretty good. So far no explosions or fires.
 
Wow. You did an amazing job with this project. Now if I can get you ya to come on over and help with my 4.0 carb project:)
 
Time for the ultimate test. Friday I will be heading from Philadelphia to Mobile Al. About 1200 miles total.
 
How did the trip go? My 4.0 HO swap has been the most amazing thing I've done to this Jeep. I put a bigger carb on it and got a ton more power. I went with the Weber 38/38 Outlaw. Between the 4.0 High Output swap and that Weber 38/38 Outlaw, I feel like I've gained like 100 HP. Lol
 
Just curious how much of the interior wiring was needed w/o using 4.0 tranny??
 
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