Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.
Found this 76 CJ5 on FB, picked it up for $600! The tub and windshield frame are a total loss but I think I can save the hood, fenders and grill. The frame has surface rust but I only see one possible crack near the one spring hanger (once I strip the body, I'll know more). The drive train is complete and everything looks pretty good. PO said it was being driven just 2 years ago. Rusty wheels and dry rot tires were removed and a quick pressure wash got her camera ready.
I pulled the plugs, oil is dirty but I don't see anything concerning there. Mice have eaten up all the wiring, spent close to what I paid for the TR ignition upgrades at Summit.
The pressure wash showed me the tub is worse than I thought. Im pretty sure only gravity and those janky running boards are holding it on. Time to get out the grinder and some cutoff wheels.
1986 CJ7 Laredo:
258 w/Howell TBI, HEI Ign., Dana 44 Front w/Detroit, Dana 44 Rear w/Discs & Detroit,
NP435 Trans, Dana 300 T-case w/twin stick
1969 Bronco:
351W, D44 high pinon front from full size, 9” full size rear, NP435 trans and Dana 20
That's a project for sure. The more you get into it, the more items you'll find need addressed.
There are still plenty of sources for parts. It's all a process though and have fun with it!
84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
A little progress this morning before it got too hot. The running boards are history! The roll bar and hardware for the soft top were removed too. Out of the 18 bolts holding the roll bar, 3 came off in one piece, 3 snapped off, 2 broke through the body(!) and the final 10 got the cutoff wheel.
Trying to decide if I should go fiberglass or continue looking for a decent tub. I've read/heard nothing but problems with the MD Juan tubs.
FYI - I got Yukon gear master kits for both diffs at half price from Amazon. Once I get down to the frame, I'm rebuilding everything so might as well pick up the parts when I find a deal.
84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
Well unfortunately they all can’t be saved. The good thing is you aren’t very deep into it. Maybe find a better candidate that won’t take that much time, money and sweat equity. But if you can do it, Go for it !
Well unfortunately they all can’t be saved. The good thing is you aren’t very deep into it. Maybe find a better candidate that won’t take that much time, money and sweat equity. But if you can do it, Go for it !
I'll get there just going to keep working on it a bit at a time. My goal is to be running a trail by spring. I just don't know if I should keep looking for a tub or bite the bullet and order a new fiberglass. I contacted Shell Valley for more info on their tubs. Nice thing is I have a template for the firewall.
Another Sunday and a bit more progress - fenders, windshield, dash, and steering column have been removed.
Windshield broke off at the hinges after I removed the dash latch plates and tried to fold it. Oh well, I knew that was a loss anyway.
The body bolt on the grill started coming out but is now spinning - it's the cutoff wheel for it next time. The hood hinges have been removed but I figure if the grill is in place might as well leave the hood on.
Getting closer to starting some actual restoration work, I'm excited for that.
I thought I had a deal lined up on a tub but he sold it to someone else. I'll keep looking.
Another couple of weekends down and some progress has been made. The tub is off, that was a mess. I think I only have two tub bolts intact, lots of grinding and cursing. I joined a local Jeep group on FB and managed to score a tub (lost a day running down to pick it up but that's okay). It needs a little bit of work but nothing like my original. With the tub off, I have removed all the rotted brake and fuel lines, dropped the tank, pulled the exhaust, and removed the old shocks. Ready to pull the engine and drop the axles next.
The frame has a little more repair needed than I originally thought but it's not too bad I think - rust through on the inside of both rails in front of the rear spring hangers. I also need to repair two side body mounts and will replace the rear crossmember (looks like someone had a little accident). Once I get the last parts off, I'll know for sure but hopefully won't need anything else. I'll be placing an order with Rust Busters in the near future.
Another weekend down and a little more progress was made. First off, I built a 'ginormous' gantry to pull the engine and use later for flipping the frame and setting the tub. When this project is all done, I'll have a place to hang a porch swing!
Once that was done, I went back to stripping the frame. While removing the rear driveshaft, I noticed something funny on the inside of the passenger side frame rail. I start poking around and ended up with this!
I knew there was an issue but not the extent. I knocked out a bunch of dirt, a mouse nest, and about a 6" piece of metal. The outside of the rail still seems solid but I won't know for sure what needs to be done until I get the rust cleaned up. The passenger side needs some love to but nothing like this.
After getting both driveshafts removed, the other unwelcome surprise came out of my Dana 20Transfer Case - water! No oil at all, just clear water (which I guess is better than rusty water). The PO gifted me an additional Transmission and Transfer Case so hopefully, with a Novak rebuild kit, I'll have everything I need for a complete rebuild.
I'd love to just replace the frame with a TDK, but I hate paying the extra grand for shipping. Maybe between Rust Buster and Autorust Safe-T cap, I can get the parts I need or I can find a frame on Marketplace. Or maybe I invest in a plasma cutter and go nuts!
This project is just the gift that keeps on giving but working on it makes me happy and keeps me out of trouble. Next weekend's weather looks like the low 80's, and other than a quick trip up to Lynchburg for the latest JD release, I'm excited to get back at it without the possibility of heat stroke.
Thanks. I started looking for a cherry picker but realized I would like/need a little more than just a way to pull the engine. Including the chain hoist, I'm in less than $200. Once the pressure treat has a chance to dry out, I'll slap a coat of paint on it, and we can use it for anything!
84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
That one might have some ground issues.
. First wooden A-frame I have seen for auto work! Two more thumbs up 
