Build Thread '73 CJ Everything Build
KeithMcKalister
Jeeper
- Posts
- 167
- Thanks
- 1
- Location
- Brownsville, Oregon
- Vehicle(s)
- '73 CJ5, 350, T18, D20, full width Dana 44 & 14 bolt w/ 5.13's. Leaf springs for the win.
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Build Thread '73 CJ Everything Build
- Thread starter KeithMcKalister
- Start date Start date:
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KeithMcKalister
Jeeper
- Posts
- 167
- Thanks
- 1
- Location
- Brownsville, Oregon
- Vehicle(s)
- '73 CJ5, 350, T18, D20, full width Dana 44 & 14 bolt w/ 5.13's. Leaf springs for the win.
Ah, I managed to use the Photogrid app to resize the image down from 4k resolution. However I'm still annoyed that the all my previous uploaded images are gone.
Belizean
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
- Posts
- 6,471
- Featured
- 1
- Media
- 20
- Solutions
- 2
- Thanks
- 540
- Location
- New Orleans area
- Vehicle(s)
- 84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
Don't blame you on losing your pictures !
KeithMcKalister
Jeeper
- Posts
- 167
- Thanks
- 1
- Location
- Brownsville, Oregon
- Vehicle(s)
- '73 CJ5, 350, T18, D20, full width Dana 44 & 14 bolt w/ 5.13's. Leaf springs for the win.
Okay so it's been quite a while since I've posted so here are some updated pics from a wheeling trip me and 2 Toyota owners went on. We camped for 2 nights at Brownscamp. Wheeled day and night. Ran many trails and zero breakdowns.
KeithMcKalister
Jeeper
- Posts
- 167
- Thanks
- 1
- Location
- Brownsville, Oregon
- Vehicle(s)
- '73 CJ5, 350, T18, D20, full width Dana 44 & 14 bolt w/ 5.13's. Leaf springs for the win.
Another update. I added a twin stick setup to my Dana 20 . And I am also making the switch from my T-18 to a SM420. With my 350 the rock crawling wasn't terrible but it is hard on the clutch. The 420 having a deep 1st gear (7.05:1) will give me much lower crawl ratio and is cheaper than doing Transfer Case gears. Here are the specs from my T-18 to the sm420 for comparison:
T-18 /Dana 20 - 4.02:1(1st) x 2.03:1(low range) x 5.13(axle) = 41.86:1 crawl ratio
420/Dana 20 - 7.05:1(1st) x 2.03:1(low range) x 5.13 (axle) = 73.41:1 crawl ratio
If I feel like this is still not low enough, I can always add the t case low gears in the future to get 113.92:1 crawl ratio. I do play on upgrading to 39.5's or 42's
Anyway, Christmas came early for me courtesy of Advance Adapters. Technically I bought this Transmission and adapter for myself.
Muncie SM420 upgrade has begun.
I already tore down my Dana 20 and removed the shift interlock pills for #FrontDig. I should have this thing all together tomorrow and should be able to start making a custom transfer cross member that will give me 1000% more protection over stock. I had to make a custom pilot bearing removal tool out of a bolt. I used the wet paper trick again and it worked as it should with the diy tool.
I also got a new Transmission tunnel and have to customize it for my twin sticks and the sm420. So apparently I'm now a sheet metal worker too.
Send me your thoughts and suggestions. I'm always open to them
I'll update as I remember and as time goes on (obviously).
T-18 /Dana 20 - 4.02:1(1st) x 2.03:1(low range) x 5.13(axle) = 41.86:1 crawl ratio
420/Dana 20 - 7.05:1(1st) x 2.03:1(low range) x 5.13 (axle) = 73.41:1 crawl ratio
If I feel like this is still not low enough, I can always add the t case low gears in the future to get 113.92:1 crawl ratio. I do play on upgrading to 39.5's or 42's
Anyway, Christmas came early for me courtesy of Advance Adapters. Technically I bought this Transmission and adapter for myself.
Muncie SM420 upgrade has begun.
I already tore down my Dana 20 and removed the shift interlock pills for #FrontDig. I should have this thing all together tomorrow and should be able to start making a custom transfer cross member that will give me 1000% more protection over stock. I had to make a custom pilot bearing removal tool out of a bolt. I used the wet paper trick again and it worked as it should with the diy tool.
I also got a new Transmission tunnel and have to customize it for my twin sticks and the sm420. So apparently I'm now a sheet metal worker too.
Send me your thoughts and suggestions. I'm always open to them
I'll update as I remember and as time goes on (obviously).
KeithMcKalister
Jeeper
- Posts
- 167
- Thanks
- 1
- Location
- Brownsville, Oregon
- Vehicle(s)
- '73 CJ5, 350, T18, D20, full width Dana 44 & 14 bolt w/ 5.13's. Leaf springs for the win.
Here is a video of me running a section of firebreak five. This was taking during my October trip with the Toyotas. The video doesn't do it justice imo. You decide. #FullWidthCJ5
Belizean
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
- Posts
- 6,471
- Featured
- 1
- Media
- 20
- Solutions
- 2
- Thanks
- 540
- Location
- New Orleans area
- Vehicle(s)
- 84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
Nice video. Yeah videos never really show it like it is. Especially how steep it really is. Nice Transmission also.
73AMC360
Jeeper
The 73-1 ratio should work well.
Running trails I typically run in 3rd low but when I need to crawl 1st is plenty low. My total gearing is at 81.6-1. second gear is a little low for trails. With the 360 3rd will lug over just about anything. I took one pill out so I could shift either front or rear independently. I ground the other shaft and left the pill in. They say this is so you cannot have the front in low while the rear is in high. Didn't work. I possibly ground the shaft a little too much.
Sheet metalwork making tools and fabricating. What Fun these rigs are.
Running trails I typically run in 3rd low but when I need to crawl 1st is plenty low. My total gearing is at 81.6-1. second gear is a little low for trails. With the 360 3rd will lug over just about anything. I took one pill out so I could shift either front or rear independently. I ground the other shaft and left the pill in. They say this is so you cannot have the front in low while the rear is in high. Didn't work. I possibly ground the shaft a little too much.
Sheet metalwork making tools and fabricating. What Fun these rigs are.
KeithMcKalister
Jeeper
- Posts
- 167
- Thanks
- 1
- Location
- Brownsville, Oregon
- Vehicle(s)
- '73 CJ5, 350, T18, D20, full width Dana 44 & 14 bolt w/ 5.13's. Leaf springs for the win.
I have read that you can infact run one in low and a second in high but not all the time. Guys apparently are doing that in competitions that don't allow front dig. I tried it while the t case was on the floor and it seemed to operate just fine. However I don't know how happy it would be with the engine torque turning it.
KeithMcKalister
Jeeper
- Posts
- 167
- Thanks
- 1
- Location
- Brownsville, Oregon
- Vehicle(s)
- '73 CJ5, 350, T18, D20, full width Dana 44 & 14 bolt w/ 5.13's. Leaf springs for the win.
Quick update: I had to separate the Transmission /Transfer Case again. When I tried to shift I to 2 low or 4 low the entire system would bind up and short of using a lot of force I couldn't hardly move it. So obviously something was wrong.
I found the snap ring that holds the pressed on bearing on the spud shaft "in place" was not allowing the spud gear that is subsequently bolted onto the spud shaft sit deep enough on the shaft. This stopping my low range gears from being able to fully engage as in doing so binds up the entire Transfer Case gears. I decided I could remove the snap ring because the bearing is pressed onto the spud shaft is secured due to being pressed on and the output gear is bolted on holding it in place. It all works now and will get put back together.
Basically a small weight reduction. For all I know the instructions (which are terrible) for the Jeep adapter say not to use that snap ring.
The instructions btw basically don't tell you anything so I just looked at the schematic they provided and put it together that way.
I found the snap ring that holds the pressed on bearing on the spud shaft "in place" was not allowing the spud gear that is subsequently bolted onto the spud shaft sit deep enough on the shaft. This stopping my low range gears from being able to fully engage as in doing so binds up the entire Transfer Case gears. I decided I could remove the snap ring because the bearing is pressed onto the spud shaft is secured due to being pressed on and the output gear is bolted on holding it in place. It all works now and will get put back together.
Basically a small weight reduction. For all I know the instructions (which are terrible) for the Jeep adapter say not to use that snap ring.
The instructions btw basically don't tell you anything so I just looked at the schematic they provided and put it together that way.
73AMC360
Jeeper
I have accidently put my Dana 20 in rear high and front low. It locks up pretty tight. It takes a minute and a couple bumps with the clutch to get one of the gear sets into neutral. It is my understanding you can do major damage to your Transfer Case .