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Ok I did that and it just back fired. So I'm guessing its the timing chain all I know to try now or mabye just put a v8 in it what will bolt to my tranny 302 I hope
Did you move the distributor slightly both ways to see (within the same tooth) just loosen the bolt holding it solid, and rotate the distributor slightly each way. The thing should run if you had it on the correct stroke, top dead center, reset the cap to be # 1 it's pointing at, and rewired the firing order correctly from there. If it's backfiring, that means it is close. Adjust the distributor slightly try to start, and keep going both ways until it does, though I'm just repeating this for hopes sake, as it's starting to sound more and more like Busa and Old dog were correct with timing chain assumption.
I'm just trying to ensure you're not forgetting a step that will save you from having to pull the timing chain cover etc.
I'm just confused as to how it ran before but not now??
I have all kinds of ideas I would try if there, but am that kind of fixer... try until i achieve my goal...
The things that worry me are:
~ Said it ran, changed a clutch now it doesn't... Not adding up...
~ Said you changed carb and intake, but that was a year ago... It did run since right?
~ Keep saying turned distributor 180... ??? Should never have to move it that much... Does this mean you removed distributor all the way out of the whole and changed teeth it was on to rotate farther than the just rotating allows?
~ Backfiring is almost always a timing / firing order issue, are we SURE we got the firing order corrected?
~ What if anything did you have to disconnect while removing Transmission from vehicle to change the clutch? Are we sure it all bot back in? Ie: I removed my speedo cable from firewall while doing my clutch / tranny rebuild, and in that firewall grommet was also 2 wires that were very important to start. I re-ran them, but was there anything funny you possibly forgot?
I'm not sure how to tell if you've jumped chain or not, but if nothing above sparks a thought, I'd go with Busa and Old Dog's recommendations on checking that. I just don't know how it could run, you change clutch, go to start it and now timing chain off... I know it's possible to jump a tooth at any time under load, but... doesn't seem right...
83 CJ7 350 tbi, TH350, D300 twin sticked & clocked, narrowed Chief D44 Eaton Elocker & Moser shafts, Explorer 8.8 Detroit locker, 410's, RE 4.5" spring lift 1" body lift, 35" Claws, cage tied to frame, Corbeau baja seats, HD tie rod and draglink, u-bolts flipped, custom skid plate and sliders, Warn 9.5ti winch with Amsteel synthetic line
~ Keep saying turned distributor 180... ??? Should never have to move it that much... Does this mean you removed distributor all the way out of the whole and changed teeth it was on to rotate farther than the just rotating allows?
~ Backfiring is almost always a timing / firing order issue
Hope you get figured out man..
I have took it completely out and turned it 180 4 times now the second tine it would back fire and such then the third time nothing again and now back to back firing. It did sit for bout 3 months prior to the clutch change because the clutch was out and I was working long days 7 days a week. But still its been covered and was finewhen the clutch went out.
83 CJ7 350 tbi, TH350, D300 twin sticked & clocked, narrowed Chief D44 Eaton Elocker & Moser shafts, Explorer 8.8 Detroit locker, 410's, RE 4.5" spring lift 1" body lift, 35" Claws, cage tied to frame, Corbeau baja seats, HD tie rod and draglink, u-bolts flipped, custom skid plate and sliders, Warn 9.5ti winch with Amsteel synthetic line
This is how I find TDC when I'm not sure whats going on.
Take all the spark plugs out so you can turn the engine over easly by hand.
Take the valve cover off so you can see the valves move.
As you turn the motor you will see the exaust valve open, keep turning till you see the intake valve open and start to close ( both will be closed when it fires). use a slim screwdriver or something you can feel the piston comming up with (someone else will have to be on the wrench turning) when you feel the piston start to go down, turn it back the other way a little and than start back up, feeling for the highest point. The timing mark should be lined up with the TDC mark now.(if the chain is good). Now drop the dist. in with the rotor pointing at #1 plug wire. It should fire up and run good enough to put a timing lite on it now.
Hope this makes sense.
This is how I find TDC when I'm not sure whats going on.
Take all the spark plugs out so you can turn the engine over easly by hand.
Take the valve cover off so you can see the valves move.
As you turn the motor you will see the exaust valve open, keep turning till you see the intake valve open and start to close ( both will be closed when it fires). use a slim screwdriver or something you can feel the piston comming up with (someone else will have to be on the wrench turning) when you feel the piston start to go down, turn it back the other way a little and than start back up, feeling for the highest point. The timing mark should be lined up with the TDC mark now.(if the chain is good). Now drop the dist. in with the rotor pointing at #1 plug wire. It should fire up and run good enough to put a timing lite on it now.
Hope this makes sense.
I just don't know how it could run, you change clutch, go to start it and now timing chain off... I know it's possible to jump a tooth at any time under load, but... doesn't seem right... 
