76-77 CJ Heater Cables
HackFabrication
Old Time Jeeper
- Posts
- 1,438
- Thanks
- 5
- Location
- Canton, MI
- Vehicle(s)
- 1976 CJ5,
2020 Grand Cherokee Summit,
2018 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE Regular Cab Shortbed
(Posted this on another forum, but wanted to add it here too)
I figured I'd start a thread on the MTS heater cables for the 76-77 CJ's. Those of you that own one of these 'Redheaded Stepchildren' know what I mean when it comes to finding parts in the after market. In particular the heater cables have been up till now, unavailable. Although two of the later model CJ cables can be modified and used, the Temp cable, which is a LONG cable wasn't available until MTS brought them to market.
Although I had gathered up a number of so-so used cables, I wanted something new for my 76 CJ5 resto. When these came on the market, I picked up a set. Here's a picture of the 'business end' of one:
Being that I wanted to use billet knobs, I was debating destroying a $40 part, but figured I'd destroy other parts that cost a heck of a lot more, in order for them to fit. Here what has to be done:
Cut the rubber cover off the knob end:
Notice where the grove is? You will need to cut through the hard plastic there:
Take the cable and put it between the jaws of a small vise so it supports the remaining plastic:
Using a 5/32 punch, drive out the metal:
Here it is in an 'exploded' view:
Notice the 'barbs' on the knob end of the cable:
Slide the billet knob on and tighten the set screw. All I have are silver now, but I will be using black in my CJ5 . There is a 'groove' on one side of the cable, so put the set screw there:
If the cables fit into your existing dash, you're done. However, on my custom dash for some reason they didn't fit. I needed to grind a bit off the flats using this:
Go slow, that part of the cable is aluminum, and you don't want to bugger up the threads. Here's a view of both sides after grinding:
Take a rotary tool and a thin cutoff wheel, and CAREFULLY grind the shoulder down that was left from the belt sander:
Thread the nuts back on, and you should be finished:
If you care about the raw aluminum, you can use a BLACK permanent marker to change it back. The two on the bottom have been done already. I haven't completed the install, and I may need to source some internal lock washers to ensure a tight fit to the dash.
Good luck to all.
I figured I'd start a thread on the MTS heater cables for the 76-77 CJ's. Those of you that own one of these 'Redheaded Stepchildren' know what I mean when it comes to finding parts in the after market. In particular the heater cables have been up till now, unavailable. Although two of the later model CJ cables can be modified and used, the Temp cable, which is a LONG cable wasn't available until MTS brought them to market.
Although I had gathered up a number of so-so used cables, I wanted something new for my 76 CJ5 resto. When these came on the market, I picked up a set. Here's a picture of the 'business end' of one:
Being that I wanted to use billet knobs, I was debating destroying a $40 part, but figured I'd destroy other parts that cost a heck of a lot more, in order for them to fit. Here what has to be done:
Cut the rubber cover off the knob end:
Notice where the grove is? You will need to cut through the hard plastic there:
Take the cable and put it between the jaws of a small vise so it supports the remaining plastic:
Using a 5/32 punch, drive out the metal:
Here it is in an 'exploded' view:
Notice the 'barbs' on the knob end of the cable:
Slide the billet knob on and tighten the set screw. All I have are silver now, but I will be using black in my CJ5 . There is a 'groove' on one side of the cable, so put the set screw there:
If the cables fit into your existing dash, you're done. However, on my custom dash for some reason they didn't fit. I needed to grind a bit off the flats using this:
Go slow, that part of the cable is aluminum, and you don't want to bugger up the threads. Here's a view of both sides after grinding:
Take a rotary tool and a thin cutoff wheel, and CAREFULLY grind the shoulder down that was left from the belt sander:
Thread the nuts back on, and you should be finished:
If you care about the raw aluminum, you can use a BLACK permanent marker to change it back. The two on the bottom have been done already. I haven't completed the install, and I may need to source some internal lock washers to ensure a tight fit to the dash.
Good luck to all.
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