Build Thread 78 CJ5 Farm Find

[jpeck71]

I got this from someone who found it on a farm in Indiana. It was driveable when I got it but had lots of leaks and a really rough idle. Some of the gauges don't work (temp & fuel). Doesn't have an oil pressure gauge. Speedo and odometer works. When he got it the tie rod ends had siezed up and he replaced the ends and tie rod and got the steering working. He also replaced the gas tank and fuel filler neck and put a new sending unit in.

The title as I got it was dated 1997 and in that time the odometer only moved 2000 miles.

It appears to have a relatively rust free frame, but the body has rust and has been bondoed in the past. A PO had removed lots of stuff when it stopped working. There is no emergency/parking brake. All of the EGR system has been removed. It has exhaust headers and a glasspack muffler.

Here's pics of the weekend I got it.
















Since then I've replaced the distributor, replaced vacuum lines and have them connected correctly now. I've adjusted the carb as well as I could without a vacuum gauge.






I've started tackling the oil leaks and have taken the oil pan off. I'll leave pics of that for another post.

In the process of starting this I've taken the opportunity to purchase a new set of jack stands and a floor jack. I have a feeling there will be other tool purchases in my future.

I've been learning a lot from my service manual and from reading posts on here. I don't have plans to take the body off, but we'll see what happens. I would like to eventually put a back seat in it but I want to tackle the drivetrain and suspension first.

This is a learning experience and hope to keep it going in the future.

 

[Petescj]

Well I have to say it was easy to approve this build thread. I have a soft spot for any 78 CJ5 since that was my first Cj. Sadly it was stolen. Looks like it was beaten that bad like alot of farm jeeps.

Whats the plan?

 

[jpeck71]

Plan is to replace/repair things as money is available. I don't have a top or doors for it and no heat right now so it will be a 3 season vehicle. I'd like to get it to where I can do some mild wheeling with it but for now it will be a fun drive.

Like I said, I'm working on oil leaks right now, then maybe wheel bearing, then front brakes. Then maybe headlight upgrade and replace headlight switch and the other gauges that don't work.

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[cj7inthetwigs]

Nice find, like the color. Is this the original color? Good luck with your build brother.

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[jpeck71]

Its been painted so not original but I believe it was a Golden Eagle so maybe close.

 

[elwood blues]

Its been painted so not original but I believe it was a Golden Eagle so maybe close.

Oak Leaf Brown, that's what color mine is, yours looks close, I like it

 

[BIGTRUCKNUT]

I like, great find. Look forward to seeing what you do to it.

 

[0822]

:ww:and a good looking CJ keep the pictures coming.

 

[TroyaCantrell]

Good luck on your build. It's easy to forget the tool budget if you don't do this stuff all the time and I don't.




Troy Cantrell
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Build thread - '66 CJ6 :
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15075

 

[jpeck71]

I've started tackling the oil leaks and have taken the oil pan off.

Well, I was cleaning the oil pan and getting it ready to paint and noticed that it was pretty rusty and pitted. Wondering about the strength of it I poked at it with the edge of a putty knife in one of the suspect areas and it went through. Now I'm looking for a replacement oil pan since I don't want to try and repair this one with welds. I'm not sure that would be worth it or a good idea. O'Reilly Auto here I come!

O well, at least it will look good.

Now I just have to get the upper half of the rear main seal out.

 

[jpeck71]

OK, finally got the rear main seal out. Now its time to post some pictures.


Took the starter motor off. Kind of dirty.


Got the oil pan off finally.



There's the dirt and rust on the oil pan. It was the sides that were rusted and pitted. Bottom was fine, just dented.



This is more dirt and oil caked on the back of the pan.



Got the bearing cap off. That tab was a pain in the butt to deal with.


The underside of my engine.


This is the remains of my old oil seal.



My engine support.


So, the new oil pan was all nice and shiny black. I decided not to paint it and just let it be. It's back on and as soon as the motor mount and starter motor goes back on I can load it up with oil and fire it up.

Hopefully all of my seals will be good and it won't leak. If everything goes as planned I'll be driving it again this weekend.

 

[jpeck71]

Everything went back together. I had the front hubs apart to begin inspecting them. Got them back in and filled back up with oil and have been driving it. Still has a leak somewhere but I think its from the valve cover gasket now. Its leaking small puddle now as opposed to the small lake it was before.

That will be next after the headlight switch comes in. Hoping that will fix the lights blinking on their own.

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[Choppa]

Looks really good. I need to replace my main seals as well but thought il do it one day when I open the motor, only to realize now that its a 2 piece and can be done with just the sump removed. Thanks for that.

Please advice why you went to the original distributor when you replaced it and not with a HEI? I see they are prices similar and I heard the HEI makes a big difference.

 

[jpeck71]

Looks really good. I need to replace my main seals as well but thought il do it one day when I open the motor, only to realize now that its a 2 piece and can be done with just the sump removed. Thanks for that.

Please advice why you went to the original distributor when you replaced it and not with a HEI? I see they are prices similar and I heard the HEI makes a big difference.

That was the first thing I did because i knew the vacuum advance was busted. I didn't know anything about HEI at the time and just went to the parts store and asked for a replacement distributor. I know about it now, but only that it exists and is an upgrade. I'm still not entirely sure what it entails. I suppose I should read up on it. I'm doing a lot more research now.

If my seals hadn't been so stuck it would have been a much quicker and easier task.

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[Choppa]

I ordered one on ebay and is waiting for delivery. Should be here in about 2 weeks so will be able to judge once i get it but the info i have is that the HEI just needs 12 Volt when you switch the key on and it replaced the current coil and Distributor with nothing else to worry about. Basically a single wire unit.

As I said, Il only be able to give the real correct feedback once it arrives.

You guys are luck to just be able to walk into a parts shop and buy these things. If a car is older than 10 or 15 years, spares become a difficult find and we import most of whats needed or make something else fit.

Keep it up. Nice build you have.

 

[jpeck71]

Changed the fluid in the Transmission and Transfer Case yesterday. Got to drive it today maybe 10 miles and seems to be shifting better so far. We'll see what more miles brings.

Seems like every time I do something and drive it it gets a little better each time. Really can't wait till this time next year.

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[jpeck71]

So my headlight switch came in and it looks like it fixes my blinking lights. Unfortunately one of my parking lights don't work now. It works when the turn signal is on so the bulb works. I'll have to check it out.

 

[jpeck71]

Here's the switch that got replaced. Pretty nasty.

I did verify that the parking light doesn't work with the old switch so it looks like I've got to dig into the lights this winter. I had planned to do the headlight relay upgrade from I think it was jumbo.

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[jpeck71]

:banghead: autocorrect got me. Jimbo it was supposed to be.

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[BIGTRUCKNUT]

So my headlight switch came in and it looks like it fixes my blinking lights. Unfortunately one of my parking lights don't work now. It works when the turn signal is on so the bulb works. I'll have to check it out.

Well, at least you know the ground at that light is good but parking lights and directionals use a different filament within the same bulb. Pull the bulb and check it/change it out. If that doesn't work, check the condition of the bulb socket and then feed wire for corrosion or breaks.