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Build Thread '81 CJ-7 Laredo build

Build Thread '81 CJ-7 Laredo build
Sorry to hear about your luck. Things can only get better.:booze:

Thats the way Im looking at it , today atleast. :D

I turned my engine over on the stand to take the oil pump off yesterday. Heard some funny noise. It was a tappet/lifter falling out of place and against the bottom the torqued down head.:bang::censored:

Got it back in place today with a bent wire, LONG screwdriver, and a flashlight held in my teeth. It gets better; but I agree with walking away when its not working. Keeps me from throwing stuff out in the yard anyway!

Sometimes I get frustrated at my self for getting frustrated. :wtf: This was supposed to be a lite month for overtime , Im currently in the middle of a 12 day stretch and the next 2 days are 3am-3pm. :rolleyes:

Hey, that sounds really familiar...No, I didn't break it out of frustration, its 27 years old. Stuff breaks! The tools where in sale and I need them for the reactor. LOL, all things in time . Teenage daughters most definitely keep things interesting.

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I think kids can set a project further back than money or parts sometimes.:pissed:
 
Sometimes I get frustrated at my self for getting frustrated. :wtf: This was supposed to be a lite month for overtime , Im currently in the middle of a 12 day stretch and the next 2 days are 3am-3pm. :rolleyes:

3am is for taking a BR break and 3PM is for napping; or finishing what you have put off all day before you leave!

At least the overtime can help finance the CJ's you have going there!:chug:

I have to give it to you Shift Work employees, I couldn't do it...:notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:
 
:laugh: Yeah the 3am is a bit strange. Any OT this time of year gets set aside for vacation though , the poor Cjs never see it. Its hard to really complain about work these days. The way things are Im glad to have a job. :chug:

3am is for taking a BR break and 3PM is for napping; or finishing what you have put off all day before you leave!

At least the overtime can help finance the CJ's you have going there!:chug:

I have to give it to you Shift Work employees, I couldn't do it...:notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:
 
I just havent had much luck getting garage time these days. Made it down there a little after work and finally removed that hardtop. Vicki and I were thinking of splurging some and buying a brand new Bestop Supertop. Ultimately we ended up deciding against it for now. That money will be saved in case we have any real trouble in Natural Bridge Ky. July 12th & 13th - Page 5 - Jeep-CJ Forums. ;)

We decided we're going old school this Summer and just rockin the bikini top. Well that was my idea , but somehow I got convinced to take the full doors with as well.:D

I also got word that theres about a 80% chance that from June 9th thru July 4th I'll be working 3am to 3pm. That really minimizes Cj time so Im going to do something I rarely do. Im going to be farming out some of the work on the Cj. :eek: Other than having things welded and inspections I cant remember the last time I did that. My Craigslist luck seems to have run out as well. Im going to have to "borrow" :rolleyes: the Limiteds windshield for now. I forgot to snap a pic of the Cj topless and doorless. Looks sexy though. I will tomorrow.
 
Pushed on the Jeep a little more today after I put a new air conditioner in Vickis Moms place. I locked the front hubs and went after that leaking yoke seal. Unfortunately I just dont have that kind of muscle power anymore.

Then the nieghbor set me up with a long air hose from his place and luckily I got that sucker off with a 3/4 in impact. The yoke itself looks good with no nicks. Vickis gonna grab that seal tomorrow and hopefully I can button up the front axle this week.
 
The seal is in my friends. Did a little more b.s. things as well. Spent $10 on a seal puller and $22 for the seal. :wtf: Its all good though. I dont want to sling gear oil for 615 miles to KY for sure. Heres a crappy topless pic in the garage for you photo buffs. :D

laredotopless_zpse9e5c0a3.jpg
 
One thing I was a little bummed about when the Cj showed up was the condition of the windshield frame. There was no visible rust , but it was all bubbled under the cowl gasket.

I finally decided to tackle this starting today. The easiest way to remove the windshield only requires the removal of 8 bolts. Unfortunately they are Torx bolts. :rolleyes: In order for me to get this Cj in shape for KY. I have to steal the Limiteds windshield. That makes 16 Torx bolts. :(

Round 1 is fairly easy. Being my windshield frame is shot I give it 1 nite after hitting the bolts with Pb blaster and Im off. 8 Torx and its done. I bat .500. 3 off 1 side and only 1 off the other. Heres the cleanly drilled heads of the other S.O.B.'s

laredo11_zps82e87367.jpg
laredo12_zps6041c071.jpg
 
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With the cowl gasket being all bubbled I knew the bottom of the frame was bad. After taking it off ,the original frame didnt disappoint. The whole bottom area was rotted out. The windshield hinge area wasnt much better.

laredo13_zpscc8743f1.jpg

laredo12_zpsf1ed708a.jpg
 
I knew the frame was bad but I didnt know to what extent till now. I was pretty scared it may have gotten into the cowl area of the tub like on my last Cj. Luckily this one still looks good. :chug: I have 3 of the 8 on the Limited loose. Rain is slowing my progress there. I'll let you all know how it works out but Id like to get at least 6 out clean. :popcorn:

laredo14_zpsae0544f7.jpg
 
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Have fun with that :D I know what a PITA they can be.
 
Have fun with that :D I know what a PITA they can be.

It didnt turn out too bad. I got 6 of 8 on the Limited windshield frame so I cant complain. :) You never really know what you have with these frames till you take them off. While this one is alot better it still has two spots that need attention. Im waiting on a new cowl gasket already so it wont hurt seeking out some Por-15 for these spots after some prep.
lightrustwindshield_zpsd8f3897d.jpg


lightrustwindshield2_zps7094507d.jpg
 
Moving on from the windshield frame I continued to change out the fluids in this "New to Me" Cj. So far I changed the engine oil , Transmission fluid and the gear oil in the front diff. My T-40 Torx socket got a workout lately between the windshield frame and the AMC20 diff cover.


The front diff wasnt to bad but I could see it sat with low fluid for a bit by some tell tale rust in there. The AMC20 doesnt have any rust but wow am I glad Im changing it. :eek: Muddy gear oil smells even better than the plain version. ;)

laredoaxlemud_zps505f249c.jpg



laredoaxlemud2_zps57a708d3.jpg
 
Just for reference here is how bad the frame was. Typical East Coast rot. :mad:

I put a new aftermarket frame on mine and it was starting to rust about the third year.:( The rust belt is great isn't it.
 
I put a new aftermarket frame on mine and it was starting to rust about the third year.:( The rust belt is great isn't it.

Im really really tired of rust. Im leaning toward fiberglass a replacement next time. Of course than the first tree you brush up against...:(
 
During my 72 hr work week I still found a little time to tinker with the Cj. The rear diff is all done now and Vicki had me paint the windshield black for now. A few more little things and I'll start running it back and forth to work.

laredoamc20_zps92147531.jpg

laredowindshieldframe_zps2adf010c.jpg
 
I hate my fiberglass windshield frame. The wipers have never worked right and it's just too flimsy to work right. IIRC I got it from 4wd back in the early 2000's.

Get a steel windshield frame, coat the inside of it with boiled linseed oil to keep it from rusting from the inside out, and then make sure you cover the outside well with paint.
 
Sorry I missed this post. I'll have to get one for the Limited now and I think I'll take your advice. I heard that method awhile back and forgot about it. :chug:

I hate my fiberglass windshield frame. The wipers have never worked right and it's just too flimsy to work right. IIRC I got it from 4wd back in the early 2000's.

Get a steel windshield frame, coat the inside of it with boiled linseed oil to keep it from rusting from the inside out, and then make sure you cover the outside well with paint.
 
Also, take and block, either with sheetmetal and silicone sealer or some closed cell foam chunks, each end of the bottom of the frame. This keeps the warm air from condensating all around the inside of the frame (hot air / cold frame) which is the main cause of them rusting from the inside out, plus it boost's the velocity of your defroster air.
And as was said, definitely coat the inside of the frame. Mine did great after 16 years like that and I'm going to spray it again, this time with Eastwood's internal frame paint.
 
Also, take and block, either with sheetmetal and silicone sealer or some closed cell foam chunks, each end of the bottom of the frame. This keeps the warm air from condensating all around the inside of the frame (hot air / cold frame) which is the main cause of them rusting from the inside out, plus it boost's the velocity of your defroster air.
And as was said, definitely coat the inside of the frame. Mine did great after 16 years like that and I'm going to spray it again, this time with Eastwood's internal frame paint.

Yep, and when you put expanding foam in the ends of the inside of the frame, make sure you leave room for the wiper linkage to work. It's not fun digging it out with a screwdriver. Ask me how I know.
 

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