85 4.2 cj wiring harness
drenzer
Jeeper
Bought a 85 cj in boxes. Received 2 different engine/dash wiring harnesses. One has a plug for the computer one doesnt. This is not a CA set up. Which is the correct one for this year.
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85 4.2 cj wiring harness
- Thread starter drenzer
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Torxhead
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
If I recall correctly, all CJs began using computers to control emissions in '81. There was a California and a 49 state version. The factory service manual was called the "M.R. 252", there is an online version, and I am not sure how rare the actual book is. Good luck with your project.
Jimbos76cj
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Ask me about my head light upgrade harness!!!
The few cj harnesses I've reused Ive been able to remove the computer system pretty easily. What you need to double check is which one fits your hole.. They made at least 2 different size fuse blocks.
drenzer
Jeeper
Thanks, that's what I wanted to hear! The one I went with is the small square plug in firewall with all 4 corners, the other computer plug style had one corner missing. If you have specifics available I'd really appreciate it. I've got a stepper mtr on a weber right now but would be more than willing to get another carb. in order to eliminate cat. and computer. Thanks for your help.
Torxhead
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
Specifics?
Peanut Butter
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Also I own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, White, all stock with 4.0L. automatic, and police package. Best part of that is it came with leather seats! This package also has the NP242 Transfer Case, 8.25 rear end, and trailer towing package.
Step motors use a computer modual for control. Search this forum for rekated threads. Rod
drenzer
Jeeper
I'm hearing that I can use the same carb. (w/ stepper mtr) w/o computer, not sure how true that is and is there any color coding available for the wires that will not be used. That's the kind of specifics I'm looking for.
Torxhead
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
From what I have heard, to use a BBD carb w/o the computer hooked up, the stepper motor pin should be in a centered position. This will set the fuel mixture for most sea level elevation applications. A John Nutter computer by-pass for the distributor will have to be done also. These two changes will take the computer out of the system, then the unused wires, emissions componets can come out. Leaving the manifold heater and electric choke connected would be a good idea here. This is a diagram of how the vacumn hose layout should be:
http://howellefi.com/pdfs/vacuum_schematic.pdf
This is the instruction booklet for an aftermarket fuel injection system in it are instructions on removing the non-required parts from a carburated system, this could help you here:
http://www.howellefi.com/pdfs/jeep_kit.pdf
scroll down to see the pages.
http://howellefi.com/pdfs/vacuum_schematic.pdf
This is the instruction booklet for an aftermarket fuel injection system in it are instructions on removing the non-required parts from a carburated system, this could help you here:
http://www.howellefi.com/pdfs/jeep_kit.pdf
scroll down to see the pages.
Last edited:
Jimbos76cj
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Ask me about my head light upgrade harness!!!
Honestly I would just look into the MC2100 swap. If your gonna do your self the favor of getting rid of the comp junk the carb also. Ive heard people running the needle in the mid position and all the way out. To me its a 
shoot at best.
Look up the diections for the nutter bypass. since you have the wiring out its really easy. I think once you seperate the wires for the ignition module and distributor from the bunch you have completely removed the comp system. Or if you have a few extra dollars get a HEI and remove the rest of the wires.
I have the 2100 and HEI in my engine and I only have wires for the starting/charging system, water and oil pressure senders and HEI. For vacuum lines I have 3. Its a very basic, easy to trouble shoot and tune system. Im also in florida and dont have to worry about emissions issues.
shoot at best.Look up the diections for the nutter bypass. since you have the wiring out its really easy. I think once you seperate the wires for the ignition module and distributor from the bunch you have completely removed the comp system. Or if you have a few extra dollars get a HEI and remove the rest of the wires.
I have the 2100 and HEI in my engine and I only have wires for the starting/charging system, water and oil pressure senders and HEI. For vacuum lines I have 3. Its a very basic, easy to trouble shoot and tune system. Im also in florida and dont have to worry about emissions issues.