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adjusting the ckoke

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adjusting the ckoke
dalefan88

dalefan88

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79 cj5 258, t150, dana 20 transfer case, dana 30 front, 20 rear,warn hubs,2.5" procomp lift,teamrush,msd box,mc2100 carb,hedman header,clifford intake,optima battery, ford shock towers.
i have a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l with the heat tube going to it. i have been adjusting this thing for two monthes now. evey carb i have had, had a electric choke. i cannt seem to get it adjusted right. is there any tips or tricks i need to know. every time i get it close it warms up outside and acts up. it was about 50 today. hopped in, let it warm up for a couple. went to the post office and it stalled. when i refired it i had to hold the gas to the floor. drive to the gas station with no problems. let it idle when i was in there. come out and hit the gas and it died. hold it to the floor and fired up. am i looking in the right spot. or does in sound like a fuel delivery problem. it does have the stock 30 year old fuel pump.
 
Boy, thats the kind of problem that leads to heavy drinking...Oh wait its too late ain't it? :laugh:

Man, I wanted to post a worthy answer, but as I searched my memory banks, I can't come up with a good answer.

It does sound like its trying to flood out, tho. or at least load up (running rich) while idling. Does it blow black smoke out when you hit the gas after its idled for a while?
 
Easiest way to adjust the choke on that carb is once warm, hold the throttle open and rotate the black plastic disc until the metal strip inside the choke disk starts to move the choke butterfly, then rotate it in the other direction just a bit so it is not contacting the choke horn linkage anymore. The mark on the black plastic should be somewhere in the vicinity of the lean and rich marks on the cam. If they are not, the metal strip inside the choke disk is fubar and needs to be replaced (the black choke unit).

The reason you adjust it roughly this way is that you don't want the choke lever to be contacting the choke butterfly arm when the engine is hot. You have to set the initial adjustment when the engine is hot...

Now, when cold - look at the position of the choke butterfly lever and take note. You need to do this before you touch the accelerator and after the CJ has warmed up. It needs to sit after the choke has released but before you drive it again. Press the accelerator once down and release. If the choke disck is adjusted correctly, when the throttle returned the choke lever should now be keeping the throttle from returning fully and the choke butterfly in the choke horn should be shut or at least most of the way. Now start the CJ. It should be in a high idle. If it is not because the choke disk did not move the idle uplever enough - the disk is bad and needs to replaced. It's a fine line. Don't ever turn the black disk beyond the initial mark where you set the hot zone or the choke will be active during normal running.

If all the above checks out and it still stumbles. Look for other carb problems such as vacuum leaks or just needing to be rebuilt.

I hope I didn't make this harder then it seems - it really is very easy to adjust... :)
 
thanks cj. i was doing it wrong. i was tying to adjust it when it was cold. after this rainstorm moves through ill try what you said. o the carb was rebuilt in september of last year.
 
mylittlecj5 said:
Boy, thats the kind of problem that leads to heavy drinking...Oh wait its too late ain't it? :laugh:

Man, I wanted to post a worthy answer, but as I searched my memory banks, I can't come up with a good answer.

It does sound like its trying to flood out, tho. or at least load up (running rich) while idling. Does it blow black smoke out when you hit the gas after its idled for a while?
Click to expand...

it was just running alittle ruff when it was warming up. it was fine when we were driving it.
 
No problem. The biggest problem with doing the initial adjustment cold is you don't know where the non-choked position of the coil is. Your guessing. The best way is actually to reverse engineer the warm position, you know that the choke should be open then...

Good luck!
 
that got it alot better. thanks fo the info cj.:D
 
what rpms should the high idle be at? i know low is about 700 to 750.
 
I'd say between 1500-1800. The instructions I gave were very generic. There also may be high idle adjustment screws depending the carb.
 
its a carter bbd. it does have a high idle screw.
 
You should have three screws. One for fast idle, mixture and the last should regular idle. I don't remember which is which. I think they should colored. Red, yellow, green.
 
i only see 2 on the backet. one goes to the cam(high idle) the one to the pivot(low idle) then the two mixtue screws on the front of the carb.
 
Different Carter then I thought... Sorry about that. Just adjust the high idle cam screw to 1500-1800 RPM.
 
heres a pic.

43935.jpg
 
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