Alright, I rewired it as in removed all the old
wiring.
I used a dedicated ground first to the battery.
VERY GOOD! Most guys don't do that, and wind up with charging problems in short order!
A new cable from the {ALTERNATOR} batt terminal to the battery {CABLE} side of the starter solenoid with a fuseable link.
Again, EXACTLY CORRECT!
A new white wire with a resistor and LED idiot light.
Now. WHAT SIZE RESISTOR?
Normally, LED Lights won't work as 'Idiot Lights' since they don't pass enough current to work as 'EXCITE' sources.
You usually have to use a regular incandescent bulbs for 'Idiot' lights.
There are exceptions, but they are RARE!
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A new red wire that goes to a fused hot wire under the dash also with a fuseable link or fuse wire what ever you want to call it
That would be the 'Sense' or 'Sample' wire.
Normally, you don't hook it up under the dash unless you are having charging problems to start with...
Big lights, big stereo, stuff like that causing problems...
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Other than the LED idiot light everthing is hooked up like diagrams I've seen on the net.
LED's have a very specific polarity, and not all of them hook up the direction you want to go with the power (out to the alternator),
Also, most of the smaller LEDs don't pass enough current to 'Excite' the alternator...
Like I said, there are exceptions, but LEDs that are robust enough to work as 'Idiot' lights are RARE (and usually expensive).
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At this time there is a NEW stock jeep alternator in it.
'Stock Jeep' means an Delco SI series alternator, so the resistor isn't a big woop... but they take more power to 'Exicte' than the CS seires, so a LED 'Idiot' light might be the restriction in the line that's causing problems...
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I get 12+v while idleing when the idiot light is on using a voltmeter,
measured at the batt.
So you aren't relying on Jeep Volt gauge for readings!
GOOD! I believe the DVM over the gauge,
AND,
It's verification of the gauge...
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...and at the alt. When the idiot light is off and the jeep volt guage is over around 16 -18v I haven't had a chance to measure it at the battery or alt. It's always on the way to work or pitch black dark outside.
Just for testing purposes...
Do this,
Connect the 'Smaller Red' or 'Sense' wire to the starter relay battery terminal side...
And take the LED out of the circuit.
Taking the led out can be as easy as using a Jumper Wire from one leg of the LED to the other...
Just let the 10 or 15 Ohm resistor work the way it's intended to...
Call this a 'Test Configuration'.... And see what you get.
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But having the idiot light stay on or off during a ride and watching the jeep volt gauge go from around 12 to around 18 tells me somethign isn't right.
When you choke the input for the 'Excite' wire down to where it's not working, the alternator will eventually start charging on the residual magnetism in the rotor...
The voltage will flash WAY UP HIGH, then the regulator will catch it and shut things down...
And the cycle starts over again!
You have to rev the engine up, get the alternator spinning faster than 'Idle Speed' to make that happen, so that's why it happens when driving...
Try taking the diode 'Idiot Light' out of the circuit and see if that stops the problem...
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I used proper soldering techniques and used the matte finish heat shrink on all connections.
Excellent! Glad to hear someone is doing things correctly!
I think the LED light is your problem, and you may now have a problem with the regulator since you voltage flashed well above the usual limits of the regulator...
But take the LED light out of the circuit and see if that takes care of the problem!
Let us know what you find out!
