AMC20 axle - removing the brake backing plate
DHugg
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- '80 CJ7 304AMC crate with 8KMiles: MC2100 - AMC20 rear w/Superiors - Dana30 front - TF999 - Dana300TC - 35x12.5's - Tilt steer column - Flaming Rvr EZ-Steer Shaft - AGR Super Pump - AGR Super Box II - RockyRidge HD Brace - New home-designed digital TEMP - GAS - OILPR - CALIBRATE gauges.
Superior says they will ship the one-piece axles for my '80 CJ7 within two days, from their California facility. I need to get the brake backing plates off and clean parts, ready for new brake parts I have in hand. But how do I get the backing plate off when I can't get the hub off?
This puller just isn't hacking it!
So I decided, now that I have surrendered to wiser counsel and purchased Superior One-piece axles, to simply cut away the inner bearings and slip off the brake backing plate. I use a Dremel Tool cutter a lot; thought it might do the job.
I bought some extra cutting wheels, Dremel code #420, the heavy-duty ones. The “skinny” cutters, #409, are really sensitive to lateral loads.
To make the cut, I put on some goggles (eyes are the easiest part damaged, and most important part at risk), propped the inner bearing race away from the backing plate with a screwdriver, and began.
I surprised myself by making the two cuts on each of two inner bearing races without breaking a single cutter! A couple of relatively soft whacks with 4lb hammer and cold chisel, and the race is split. A quick pair of cuts on the bearing cage (a pretty soft metal), a twist of the pliers, and you are done.
I was a bit surprised at the wear tracks on the brake shoe slider surfaces of the brake backing plate. I guess I had never seen one that has gone so long un-greased. My father, and now me as I was coached to do by him, always pulled down brakes every two years and checked them out while repacking wheel bearings.
I intend to dress off the worn ridges, polish the area, all with an assortment of grinding stones chucked in a 3/8 drive electric drill. It looks like there is enough metal there to hold up after a bit is removed. The brakes have to slip freely or they will bind, and be just about the equivalent of No Brakes!
My desire is to have my CJ looking as good inside the mechanical parts as it does on the outside.
This puller just isn't hacking it!
So I decided, now that I have surrendered to wiser counsel and purchased Superior One-piece axles, to simply cut away the inner bearings and slip off the brake backing plate. I use a Dremel Tool cutter a lot; thought it might do the job.
I bought some extra cutting wheels, Dremel code #420, the heavy-duty ones. The “skinny” cutters, #409, are really sensitive to lateral loads.
To make the cut, I put on some goggles (eyes are the easiest part damaged, and most important part at risk), propped the inner bearing race away from the backing plate with a screwdriver, and began.
I surprised myself by making the two cuts on each of two inner bearing races without breaking a single cutter! A couple of relatively soft whacks with 4lb hammer and cold chisel, and the race is split. A quick pair of cuts on the bearing cage (a pretty soft metal), a twist of the pliers, and you are done.
I was a bit surprised at the wear tracks on the brake shoe slider surfaces of the brake backing plate. I guess I had never seen one that has gone so long un-greased. My father, and now me as I was coached to do by him, always pulled down brakes every two years and checked them out while repacking wheel bearings.
I intend to dress off the worn ridges, polish the area, all with an assortment of grinding stones chucked in a 3/8 drive electric drill. It looks like there is enough metal there to hold up after a bit is removed. The brakes have to slip freely or they will bind, and be just about the equivalent of No Brakes!
My desire is to have my CJ looking as good inside the mechanical parts as it does on the outside.
Here's a beer for your trouble.
