Another weber question

[bearsden]

After reading through all the posts on weber carbs,I'm still not sure what to do.I have a weber 32/36 dgav that has an automatic choke on my AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and it runs very rich.black tail pipe ,black plugs,and black bowl on what I call the primary bowl.It has the dizzy upgrade with the stock coil and no fuel pressure reg.and fuel return line is not hooked up.So I removed the carb. to check the float setting and will rebuild it while its out.Should I ad the FPR and try to get the fuel return line hooked up as well.Seems like Ive heard yes and no on both,but the posts were older.Thanks in advance jeep Gods !

 

[turbojn997]

I had a 32/36 DGEV on my AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l I had a return line in it and it ran fine. Also had a HEI. That carb is an "economy" carb from what Todd at Weber/Redline explained to me. If your Jeep came with a 2 barrel carb, it is lower performance than the stock 2 barrel Carter. I now have a High Output 4.0 with a Weber 38/38 Outlaw and it runs AMAZING. Good luck with it, I didn't like my 32/36. Could never get WOT right, would just bog or cut-out...

Good Luck!

 

[bearsden]

I had a 32/36 DGEV on my AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l I had a return line in it and it ran fine. Also had a HEI. That carb is an "economy" carb from what Todd at Weber/Redline explained to me. If your Jeep came with a 2 barrel carb, it is lower performance than the stock 2 barrel Carter. I now have a High Output 4.0 with a Weber 38/38 Outlaw and it runs AMAZING. Good luck with it, I didn't like my 32/36. Could never get WOT right, would just bog or cut-out...

Good Luck!

Mine seems to run ok but the idling is bad and every once in a while will cough on start up and blow a little black smoke.And leaves a nasty spot on the ground. I checked for vaccuum leaks and hose routings all seems to be ok. Just always wondered about that FPR

 

[turbojn997]

Sounds like it's running rich.
1. Set the float height to 18mm from top of float to gasket. DO NOT depress the ball in the needle valve

2. The idle Speed Screw Absolutely, Positively, CAN NOT be turned in more than 1 1/2 turn......
You can hook up a vacuum gauge to your ported vacuum source on the carburetor and at 1 1/2 turn in or less you will have ZERO vacuum....

3. THEN, you will find the "Lean Best Idle" or the Sweet spot with the mixture screw.
When jetted properly you will find this screw at 1 3/4 to 2 1/4 turns out from lightly seated. (2 turns is optimum)

4. THEN, re-adjust your initial ignition timing. 10-14 BTDC, (NO PRE-IGNITION/PINGING)

5. Then after the engine is "tuned", (over-night) when the engine is cold, you can set the choke.

This should work. Let me know.

 

[Saddle Tramp]

From my experience, you either get a good one out of the box or and expensive door stop. The wording on the outside of the box that says “No Warranty Whatsoever” is there for a reason, they mean it.

 

[bearsden]

Sounds like it's running rich.
1. Set the float height to 18mm from top of float to gasket. DO NOT depress the ball in the needle valve

2. The idle Speed Screw Absolutely, Positively, CAN NOT be turned in more than 1 1/2 turn......
You can hook up a vacuum gauge to your ported vacuum source on the carburetor and at 1 1/2 turn in or less you will have ZERO vacuum....

3. THEN, you will find the "Lean Best Idle" or the Sweet spot with the mixture screw.
When jetted properly you will find this screw at 1 3/4 to 2 1/4 turns out from lightly seated. (2 turns is optimum)

4. THEN, re-adjust your initial ignition timing. 10-14 BTDC, (NO PRE-IGNITION/PINGING)

5. Then after the engine is "tuned", (over-night) when the engine is cold, you can set the choke.

This should work. Let me know.

will do, thanks so much for the help this is kinda new to me so Ive been learning alot from everyone here... is that 10-14 deg at engine idle ? I'll get back with you should have the carb rebuilt and back on this weekend!

 

[bearsden]

From my experience, you either get a good one out of the box or and expensive door stop. The wording on the outside of the box that says “No Warranty Whatsoever” is there for a reason, they mean it.

hopefully I got that "good one " Thanks !

 

[bearsden]

Sounds like it's running rich.
1. Set the float height to 18mm from top of float to gasket. DO NOT depress the ball in the needle valve

2. The idle Speed Screw Absolutely, Positively, CAN NOT be turned in more than 1 1/2 turn......
You can hook up a vacuum gauge to your ported vacuum source on the carburetor and at 1 1/2 turn in or less you will have ZERO vacuum....

3. THEN, you will find the "Lean Best Idle" or the Sweet spot with the mixture screw.
When jetted properly you will find this screw at 1 3/4 to 2 1/4 turns out from lightly seated. (2 turns is optimum)

4. THEN, re-adjust your initial ignition timing. 10-14 BTDC, (NO PRE-IGNITION/PINGING)

5. Then after the engine is "tuned", (over-night) when the engine is cold, you can set the choke.

This should work. Let me know.

So should I get that return line hooked up and install the FPR? Or just the return line for now?

 

[turbojn997]

I don't think you need the FPR with a carb set-up. I've seen it run both ways, with and without a return line. Mine does have one. Others do not. Yes, 10-14 degrees of timing at idle, engine warm, choke fully open, vacuum advance unhooked.

Good Luck!

If you need any more help, pm me.

 

[Dan86CJ7]

get the fuel reg. and set to 3.5 psi for starters

 

[bearsden]

get the fuel reg. and set to 3.5 psi for starters

will do ! Im heading out to the garage right now to finish rebuilding the carb,and install the FPR.I also will hook up the stock fuel filter.I'll let you guys know what happens.Thanks again for the help!!!

 

[bearsden]

will do ! Im heading out to the garage right now to finish rebuilding the carb,and install the FPR.I also will hook up the stock fuel filter.I'll let you guys know what happens.Thanks again for the help!!!

Sounds like it's running rich.
1. Set the float height to 18mm from top of float to gasket. DO NOT depress the ball in the needle valve

2. The idle Speed Screw Absolutely, Positively, CAN NOT be turned in more than 1 1/2 turn......
You can hook up a vacuum gauge to your ported vacuum source on the carburetor and at 1 1/2 turn in or less you will have ZERO vacuum....

3. THEN, you will find the "Lean Best Idle" or the Sweet spot with the mixture screw.
When jetted properly you will find this screw at 1 3/4 to 2 1/4 turns out from lightly seated. (2 turns is optimum)

4. THEN, re-adjust your initial ignition timing. 10-14 BTDC, (NO PRE-IGNITION/PINGING)

5. Then after the engine is "tuned", (over-night) when the engine is cold, you can set the choke.

This should work. Let me know.

ok,got the carb done,installed the holley FPR,And re-hooked up the fuel return line.Started it up used the followed the instructions and i'm at 1 1/4 turns on the mixture screw and 1 turn on the idle speed screw. 3 lbs on the FPR and its running way better than it did !!!! took it for a ride and she ran great! I did notice when i got back my choke was not open all the way..about 1/2.And I got no power to the choke.but it ran great.I also checked the vacuum at the "s" port and its just slightly above zero.Like the first line past the zero. So hopefully i'm close.Let me know if i should tweek some things..When i first started it up it was black and appeared to have fuel in it but it cleared up very fast. Its not doing it after the adjustments.But i know the chokes not right. I can't thank you enough for the help!! Its really appreciated!

 

[bearsden]

get the fuel reg. and set to 3.5 psi for starters

Done,thanks for the advice! its working great!!! now i just need to tweek some things

 

[turbojn997]

Very Good! You need zero vacuum. I would adjust it. Adjust the idle speed screw just a touch. If the butterfly is open, it will let extra fuel in through the enrichment port causing it to run rich at idle.

Let me know.

Glad to hear it runs better!

 

[bearsden]

Very Good! You need zero vacuum. I would adjust it. Adjust the idle speed screw just a touch. If the butterfly is open, it will let extra fuel in through the enrichment port causing it to run rich at idle.

Let me know.

Glad to hear it runs better!

This is probably a stupid question but can I hook the gauge up and just watch it while I adjust it ? And does the engine need to be warmed up as well ? Thanks again !

 

[Neuner]

I'd get it all setup by what everyone recommends and then just learn your system. It's a good starting point and then learn to make small adjustments on your own and how they affect your engine.

Find out the size of your primaries and compare them against what you find in your search compared to your altitude and what others find works for them.

 

[Dan77CJ7]

opps sry

 

[turbojn997]

You can hook up a gauge, that's what I do. Yes, the engine needs to be fully warmed up and choke fully open.

 

[poppatello]

Hate my WEBER...

 

[bearsden]

You can hook up a gauge, that's what I do. Yes, the engine needs to be fully warmed up and choke fully open.

sounds good,also on the choke isn't it suppose to stay opened after you've ran it, and then when you to start it cold you pump it once and the butterfly goes shut and re-opens as it warms up.After I drive it I noticed the choke slowly closes.And I believe that it use to stay open until I hit the throttle.Then it would close for start up.