Another weber question

[bearsden]

You can hook up a gauge, that's what I do. Yes, the engine needs to be fully warmed up and choke fully open.

Ok turbo need some more help,bought a new vaccum gauge and at the s port I'm showing 14 on the vacuum.With the engine warmed up,choke fully opened.I replaced all the hoses and rechecked everything again and all looks good.When i started it up it ran really rich,very smelly and spitting out the exhaust.but let it warm up and its fine.What do i need to do to get that vacuum down...i'm sure thats a loaded question...son of a *&$%* thanks,,,,,,,,,again!

 

[bearsden]

Hate my WEBER...

they are kinda nasty,but I'm hoping not only to get it right but maybe learn a thing or two.Carbs have always been a week spot for me because I didn't want to take the time to learn anything.A couple cold ones and some great people on this forum have helped a lot !!!! ok sometimes more than a couple

 

[bearsden]

I'd get it all setup by what everyone recommends and then just learn your system. It's a good starting point and then learn to make small adjustments on your own and how they affect your engine.

Find out the size of your primaries and compare them against what you find in your search compared to your altitude and what others find works for them.

Thanks Neuter! I read through a bunch of old posts on the weber,mainly from swatson454 and tried to do what he was saying. I'm at 1 1/4 turns out on the idle mix screw and and 1 1/2 on the idle speed screw.and after it warms up it runs great. Its only on the initial start up. Its like its getting way to much gas.. I'll get out there again tomorrow and try to figure it out.

 

[turbojn997]

Ok turbo need some more help,bought a new vaccum gauge and at the s port I'm showing 14 on the vacuum.With the engine warmed up,choke fully opened.I replaced all the hoses and rechecked everything again and all looks good.When i started it up it ran really rich,very smelly and spitting out the exhaust.but let it warm up and its fine.What do i need to do to get that vacuum down...i'm sure thats a loaded question...son of a *&$%* thanks,,,,,,,,,again!

With the engine fully warmed up and the vac advance disconnected, what is your timing set at? And on the choke issue. Once it is warmed up, it should stay open. It does slowly open as the heating element warms up and opens it. But once it's open, it should stay open until you shut it down and let it cool. It should also have 12 volts going to it with ignition in the on position. It should stay at 12 volts until you turn off the ignition. Meaning it shouldn't be wired to something that will lose power at sometime.

Let me know.

 

[bearsden]

With the engine fully warmed up and the vac advance disconnected, what is your timing set at? And on the choke issue. Once it is warmed up, it should stay open. It does slowly open as the heating element warms up and opens it. But once it's open, it should stay open until you shut it down and let it cool. It should also have 12 volts going to it with ignition in the on position. It should stay at 12 volts until you turn off the ignition. Meaning it shouldn't be wired to something that will lose power at sometime.

Let me know.

timing is set at 12 deg BTDC. with the vac.advance disconected. I ran a new wire to the choke thats only hot with the key on and it works like its suppose to but doesnt stay open after I park it.It closes as it cools down.There is an adj. screw that looks like it should be touching a "lobe" and its not touching anything...I think that screw is what holds that open some how ?

 

[turbojn997]

timing is set at 12 deg BTDC. with the vac.advance disconected. I ran a new wire to the choke thats only hot with the key on and it works like its suppose to but doesnt stay open after I park it.It closes as it cools down.There is an adj. screw that looks like it should be touching a "lobe" and its not touching anything...I think that screw is what holds that open some how ?

Not sure on that one... The choke is not working properly in my opinion. Set the timing to 10 degrees btdc, re-adjust your idle and mixture screws to lean best idle, and see if that fixes your rich issue. Try to get the idle at or around 650 rpm.

Let me know

 

[bearsden]

Not sure on that one... The choke is not working properly in my opinion. Set the timing to 10 degrees btdc, re-adjust your idle and mixture screws to lean best idle, and see if that fixes your rich issue. Try to get the idle at or around 650 rpm.

Let me know

will do !!! thanks again!

 

[bearsden]

First of all I can't tell you thanks enough for the help again!ok,let the jeep warm up,choke fully open and went through the lean best idle adj.These are my settings.Idle mix screw is at 1 turn.Idle speed screw is at 2 1/2 turns.Timing is 10 deg BTDC.650rpm idle.Vacuum is still at 4"at the "s" port.My primary idle jet is 75,and my secondary is 60.It still idles slow at first and spits the nasty black exhaust for a few minutes but let it run for 5-10 and its all good.(I'm just tired of cleaning the off the garage floor.)Let me know what you think! Thanks again.

 

[Posi]

its running way better than it did !!!! took it for a ride and she ran great! I did notice when i got back my choke was not open all the way..about 1/2.

Remove the vacuum line from ported vacuum and check your manifold vacuum (full vacuum) at idle. If it's running good at half choke you may have a vacuum leak.

 

[bearsden]

Remove the vacuum line from ported vacuum and check your manifold vacuum (full vacuum) at idle. If it's running good at half choke you may have a vacuum leak.

I will check that tonight when i get home !! Thanks Posi!

 

[Posi]

Remove the vacuum line from ported vacuum and check your manifold vacuum (full vacuum) at idle. If it's running good at half choke you may have a vacuum leak.

So as not to confuse, removed the vacuum "gauge" line you had hooked up to the ported vacuum.

 

[bearsden]

So as not to confuse, removed the vacuum "gauge" line you had hooked up to the ported vacuum.

sorry this is all kinda new to me but would I Check that at the port on the plates under the weber ?And after its warmed up? I've been doing all my checks withe motor warmed up and choke fully opened.

 

[Posi]

The best spot would be a port on the intake manifold. Ports under your carb should have full vacuum as well. Test when engine is warm. Post up how many " of vacuum you find and how the needle is acting.

You may find the link below helpful
How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge

 

[bearsden]

The best spot would be a port on the intake manifold. Ports under your carb should have full vacuum as well. Test when engine is warm. Post up how many " of vacuum you find and how the needle is acting.

You may find the link below helpful
How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge

that link helps alot !! Thanks !

 

[bearsden]

The best spot would be a port on the intake manifold. Ports under your carb should have full vacuum as well. Test when engine is warm. Post up how many " of vacuum you find and how the needle is acting.

You may find the link below helpful
How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge

vacuum at the manifold was 18" and the needle did not move Ithink i'm good there.But still have 4" at the dist.port . Replaced one hose and rechecked all the others . took a small can of starting fluid and carefully checked around and couldn't come up with anything.But it runs well.Short of the black stuff at start up which bothers me big time.an that lasts a few minutes then goes away.Thanks again for the help and i'll keep tinkering.Should I try changing my idle jet size?

 

[Posi]

A steady 18" is good. If your running too rich and your not able to learn it out then step down on your idle jet size. I installed a new weber for a friend and had to downsize the idle jet twice to get it right. Typically if you can screw the mixture screw in all the way and it still runs you need to downsize your idle jet.

 

[Flex BT]

I used to have the same problem with the moisture / black coming out the exhaust. I ended up replacing the head gasket which didn't look like it had any really visibly bad leaks or anything. What I think possibly did make a difference was at the same time I got what I felt like was my first truly tight seal on the valve cover. I tried a bunch of stuff including hooking up the manifold warmer, teamrush, timing changes galore but I think the whole time I had an issue with the back bolt on the manifold cover not really tightening down the way it should.

My issue could have actually been the head gasket, intake / exhaust gaskets, valve cover or even some I didn't even know I accidentally knocked loose at the time, just thought I'd throw it out there for you since I had the same issue a while back. That said, all these guys know a hell of a lot more than me so listen to them first.

 

[bearsden]

A steady 18" is good. If your running too rich and your not able to learn it out then step down on your idle jet size. I installed a new weber for a friend and had to downsize the idle jet twice to get it right. Typically if you can screw the mixture screw in all the way and it still runs you need to downsize your idle jet.

if I turn the mixture screw in it does die...slowly.But I might just try it anyway.I'm also thinking hard about the nutter bypass to possibly eliminate some of the vac. lines and all the other that bugs me. whats your thoughts on the bypass? Thanks for your help Posi !!!!!

 

[bearsden]

I used to have the same problem with the moisture / black coming out the exhaust. I ended up replacing the head gasket which didn't look like it had any really visibly bad leaks or anything. What I think possibly did make a difference was at the same time I got what I felt like was my first truly tight seal on the valve cover. I tried a bunch of stuff including hooking up the manifold warmer, teamrush, timing changes galore but I think the whole time I had an issue with the back bolt on the manifold cover not really tightening down the way it should.

My issue could have actually been the head gasket, intake / exhaust gaskets, valve cover or even some I didn't even know I accidentally knocked loose at the time, just thought I'd throw it out there for you since I had the same issue a while back. That said, all these guys know a hell of a lot more than me so listen to them first.

I just rebuilt the top end about 500 miles ago,and it was doing it before that.But i will go back and re torque again thanks for the suggestions!!!I'll let you know!!

 

[Neuner]

I'm also thinking hard about the nutter bypass to possibly eliminate some of the vac. lines and all the other that bugs me. whats your thoughts on the bypass?

Assumed you had this done already. You should do that immediately then worry about the other factors.