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Anyone with D60s?

Anyone with D60s?

BIGTRUCKNUT

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Northern Virginia
Vehicle(s)
'45 Ford GPW; '73 CJ5 350/NP435/D20; CJ8 304/T19/doubler/D300; '88 Ramcharger 360/NP435/NP205/D60s; '04 Ford Excursion PSD; '00 WJ w/3 and 4-link, D50/Sterling 10.5" axles
Have a set of Dodge D60s that I'm thinking about throwing in the CJ5 to replace my set of Dana 30 /D44s. Doing the math, figure on cutting long side 5" and relocate driver side spring perch to 27.5" spring center giving me a wms-wms width of 62.5" in the front. Will convert to flat YJ springs at the same time to maintain a "lower" stance.

Anyone on here running something similar (or a cut down full size Dana 44 ) and if so, how'd the width work out for you? I'd like to keep in reasonably narrow - that is why I'd narrow the axle and keep stock 27.5" spring center. What about caster? Heard of some guys adding more caster and turning up the pinion a little more for rock clearance, thoughts? I don't want this to become a off road only beast so keeping it "streetable" is important to me. May use 7" backspacing HMMWV wheels and tires if I can make it work. Matching D60 rear.

Thanks.
 
I have a cut down 44 in mine, 60.75" wide. 10" wide wheels with 3.75 back spacing and 35x13.5 tires.
 
I run a 60 cut and a 14 bolt with hi wheels and 37s. Runs the toll road at 75 mph tires stick out approx 2.5-3 inches from stock flares. I think there are pic in my profile of it. I can send more info when I'm done today if you want. Btw running a 14 bolt instead of a 60 is a lot less work.. No cutting its a bolt in if you get the right parts. But you do loose some clearance unless you shave it.
 
I have a cut down 44 in mine, 60.75" wide. 10" wide wheels with 3.75 back spacing and 35x13.5 tires.

:)
Hi Paul,
Just looking at these pictures of your Jeep.......I'm getting close to putting some axles under my new build........so that front is 60.750" wheel mount to wheel mount? Looks like the tires are about 10" outside of the stock fender line???

And what width is your rear? those look to be maybe 8 inches out?.........and did you do the 8.8 Ford axle back there? How do you like it?

Terry

:D:D:D:D
 
I've got a cut Dana 44 in the front. It is (I think, anyway) 63.5" wms, but I'd have to measure the tire overhang, but I seem to remember it being about 7.5-8" with no flares. This is with 8" wheels with 3.75" backspacing. Pretty sure they're not 4" bs. All I did was cut 4" off the long side and move the spring perch over for the stock spring center.
 
Have a set of Dodge D60s that I'm thinking about throwing in the CJ5 to replace my set of Dana 30 /D44s. Doing the math, figure on cutting long side 5" and relocate driver side spring perch to 27.5" spring center giving me a wms-wms width of 62.5" in the front. Will convert to flat YJ springs at the same time to maintain a "lower" stance.

Anyone on here running something similar (or a cut down full size Dana 44 ) and if so, how'd the width work out for you? I'd like to keep in reasonably narrow - that is why I'd narrow the axle and keep stock 27.5" spring center. What about caster? Heard of some guys adding more caster and turning up the pinion a little more for rock clearance, thoughts? I don't want this to become a off road only beast so keeping it "streetable" is important to me. May use 7" backspacing HMMWV wheels and tires if I can make it work. Matching D60 rear.

Thanks.

:)I do not think with 60's you could keep the springs at 27.5" nor is there enough room from the housing to the spring to keep them that narrow......just to big and bulky. Anything over 58-59 inches front or rear will still take at least a 4-6 inch flare to cover most of the tire.

:D:D:D:D
 
Gents, appreciate the replies so far.

OD, appreciate the specs on your setup and picture. Doing the math, you have an overall width (outside of wheel) of about 73" with the 10" rims and backspacing. Assume that you have alot of room between the tire and spring at full lock and could easily go to a 37 or 38 without spring rub.

Tinman, sounds like you cut your axle about the same amount (4"-5") I'm thinking of doing. The Dodge axles are 2" narrower than Chevy/Ford D60s with a slightly wider spring center width. The stock Dodge rear SRW D60 comes in at 65" wide so it won't require cutting. I think I'll probably add 1.5" front wheel spacers to even out the D60 widths front to rear and give me some more clearance between the HMMWV wheel and the steering arms. That would give me to an overall width at the outer edge of the wheels of 71.5" and about 10.5" between the inner edge of the wheel and the front spring - actually just slightly wider (about 1" overall) than my current NT Dana 30 and 15/35-15 TSLs on a 10" wheel. What steering arm did you use on the passenger side knuckle and how much clearance do you have between the inside edge of the wheel and the stock steering arms/TREs and the crossover steering arm? If you have a picture of these that would be much appreciated to give me an idea of clearances. No problem with tire rub on the springs at full lock? Did you add more caster by cutting and turning both inner Cs?
Again, I appreciate you alls experience and knowledge. I have to think all this through in great detail before I get the nerve to make the first cut. Not that I'm a puss or anything - I just don't want to get into it then see that I've forgotten to account for something and then have to make a change.

I currently run 35s, 4.27 gears and lockers so I'm thinking lockers and 4.88s to run 37s initially with room to grow.
 
Last edited:
:)
Hi Paul,
Just looking at these pictures of your Jeep.......I'm getting close to putting some axles under my new build........so that front is 60.750" wheel mount to wheel mount? Looks like the tires are about 10" outside of the stock fender line???

And what width is your rear? those look to be maybe 8 inches out?.........and did you do the 8.8 Ford axle back there? How do you like it?

Terry

Yes that's wms to wms I've got 33's with flairs on right now but I think your guess is about right.
The rear is a 8.8 from an Explorer, if I remember right is 59" give or take.

:D:D:D:D

Gents, appreciate the replies so far.

OD, appreciate the specs on your setup and picture. Doing the math, you have an overall width (outside of wheel) of about 73" with the 10" rims and backspacing. Assume that you have alot of room between the tire and spring at full lock and could easily go to a 37 or 38 without spring rub.

Tinman, sounds like you cut your axle about the same amount (4"-5") I'm thinking of doing. The Dodge axles are 2" narrower than Chevy/Ford D60s with a slightly wider spring center width. The stock Dodge rear SRW D60 comes in at 65" wide so it won't require cutting. I think I'll probably add 1.5" front wheel spacers to even out the D60 widths front to rear and give me some more clearance between the HMMWV wheel and the steering arms. That would give me to an overall width at the outer edge of the wheels of 71.5" and about 10.5" between the inner edge of the wheel and the front spring - actually just slightly wider (about 1" overall) than my current NT Dana 30 and 15/35-15 TSLs on a 10" wheel. What steering arm did you use on the passenger side knuckle and how much clearance do you have between the inside edge of the wheel and the stock steering arms/TREs and the crossover steering arm? If you have a picture of these that would be much appreciated to give me an idea of clearances. No problem with tire rub on the springs at full lock? Did you add more caster by cutting and turning both inner Cs?
Again, I appreciate you alls experience and knowledge. I have to think all this through in great detail before I get the nerve to make the first cut. Not that I'm a puss or anything - I just don't want to get into it then see that I've forgotten to account for something and then have to make a change.

I currently run 35s, 4.27 gears and lockers so I'm thinking lockers and 4.88s to run 37s initially with room to grow.

Mine is around 75/76 wide at the outside of the tires.
I probably could run at least 38's with no spring rubbing
I have a high steer arm for the draglink with about 1.375 clearance to the wheel. The tie rod is still on the stock 44 arm with about 1/2" clearance.
 
Running front Chevy 60 cut down 4" with wagon springs SOA RS
Dodge 60 rear with 1" cut from both sides, I cut the spindle off to bore out for 1.5" 30 spline shafts. Wagon springs SOA. 105" WB
H2, 5" BS with 16.5 "wide" tire. Even with the ridiculous wide tire and no flares it only stick out about 8" from the side of the tub.
 
Well I'm home now. Running h1 wheels I needed to cut the front down to 59.25 inches why? You ask well I put a dually 14 bolt in the rear wich is 63" wm/wm so to run h1s you need to run 2" spacers to clear the rotors inside the wheel 59+4=63 the .25 was a mistake. I sent the axles out for resplining and discovered I had hit the magic number had I narrowed it to say 60" they could not have done it as the splines would have run into the taper on the axle shaft.

I run 3:73 gears and 37" baja ta's I've only taken it up to 92 mph gps speed on the turnpike and that was good enough for me
The tires do not rub anywhere I run stock yj leaves and high steer arms and no sway bars 21" travel shocks up front using all but 1.5 inches and 19.5s in the rear on limiting straps.

The tires stick out (after measuring)2.5 inches from stock flares.

As soon as my wife gets home I'll see if she can put up pics of it finished or I can email them right now
 
Well I'm home now. Running h1 wheels I needed to cut the front down to 59.25 inches why? You ask well I put a dually 14 bolt in the rear wich is 63" wm/wm so to run h1s you need to run 2" spacers to clear the rotors inside the wheel 59+4=63 the .25 was a mistake. I sent the axles out for resplining and discovered I had hit the magic number had I narrowed it to say 60" they could not have done it as the splines would have run into the taper on the axle shaft.

I run 3:73 gears and 37" baja ta's I've only taken it up to 92 mph gps speed on the turnpike and that was good enough for me
The tires do not rub anywhere I run stock yj leaves and high steer arms and no sway bars 21" travel shocks up front using all but 1.5 inches and 19.5s in the rear on limiting straps.

The tires stick out (after measuring)2.5 inches from stock flares.

As soon as my wife gets home I'll see if she can put up pics of it finished or I can email them right now

I am sure the rest of the folks would get something out of you posting a picture or two here but I'm going to PM you with my e-mail if you don't mind.

Gracias,
Ty
 
Not a problem. I'm working off of an iPad here and some things are harder to do ( for me anyway) like post pics. I'll send them when I get your email.
 
Sent them. They all went individually because I don't know how to send them together. But I might have figured it out a did that too so you might have gotten them all at once too. Or maybe not at all let me know
 
Was just looking on google and if you didn't get them go to google images, 440 big block CJ7 the first ten are from an old eBay listing there is a couple good pics of the front axle and steering .
 
Was just looking on google and if you didn't get them go to google images, 440 big block CJ7 the first ten are from an old eBay listing there is a couple good pics of the front axle and steering .

Got the pictures last evening and googled your pictures too. I like the overall width of your wheels/tires and want mine to be about the same. Very helpful, thank you. I did a full width crossover/highsteer D60 on my Ramcharger a few years ago and this axle build will be very similar after the axle narrowing.
 
Well I'm home now. Running h1 wheels I needed to cut the front down to 59.25 inches why? You ask well I put a dually 14 bolt in the rear wich is 63" wm/wm so to run h1s you need to run 2" spacers to clear the rotors inside the wheel 59+4=63 the .25 was a mistake. I sent the axles out for resplining and discovered I had hit the magic number had I narrowed it to say 60" they could not have done it as the splines would have run into the taper on the axle shaft.

I run 3:73 gears and 37" baja ta's I've only taken it up to 92 mph gps speed on the turnpike and that was good enough for me
The tires do not rub anywhere I run stock yj leaves and high steer arms and no sway bars 21" travel shocks up front using all but 1.5 inches and 19.5s in the rear on limiting straps.

The tires stick out (after measuring)2.5 inches from stock flares.

As soon as my wife gets home I'll see if she can put up pics of it finished or I can email them right now

:)
Tinman, So to be clear your Front and rear axles are cut to 59" RMS /RMS and then you added 2 inch spacers per side to clear the calipers.......which now gets you to 63" RMS........what is the offset on those Hummer H1 wheels? Or better yet what is the tread width or greatest dimension outside edge to outside edge using those 12.5 tires?.............I also looked at your photos on Google. Post some pictures here if you can.

Thanks

:D:D:D:D
 
No the rear is uncut 63" 14 bolt from a cab and chassis truck the front is cut to 59 plus2" per side to clear calipers
 
Last edited:
No the rear is uncut 63" 14 bolt from a cab and chassis truck the front is cut to 59 plus2" per side to clear calipers

10-4 Do you know the offset on those wheels?
 
H1 rims are 7" offset the front spacers also help keep the front hubs inside the wheels. The 14 bolts are actually all the same axle the difference in width comes from the hubs cab and chassis have the deepest offset. The only issue is the pinion is slightly offset approx 1" to the pass side if I had known this at the start I would have offset the eng/Transmission /tcase 1" also avoiding a compound angle.
 
I currently run 35s, 4.27 gears and lockers so I'm thinking lockers and 4.88s to run 37s initially with room to grow.

Kinda off topic but how did you like running a Dana 30 locked w/ 35's?
 

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