Axle Price?

[Hedgehog]

Does anyone know what a good set of Scout II axles should sell for? I'm looking to upgrade a Willys and Scout II axles are considered to be the axles to use for this project.

 

[PistolDave]

Don't know what they are going for pricewise, but be aware that some of the scout front axles, if not all of them, run -0- degrees of caster angle on the inner 'C's. Due to the relationship that is built in between the pinion and the 'C's, if you shim for proper radial caster numbers, you end up with your pinion pointing down at the dirt. They also run about 1-1.5 degrees of positive camber, which makes your front tires look kinda like the front of an old John Deere tractor. I have read that this front axle set up works ok with bias ply tires which have a different shape of rolling contact patch than radials do. The Scout axle my jeep came with was set up exactly this way. If you already knew all this, please disregard.

Dave

 

[Hedgehog]

Nope, I didn't know all that, was going with the recommendations from other jeep ... actually Wagon guys. It's all good information.

 

[duffer]

Does anyone know what a good set of Scout II axles should sell for? I'm looking to upgrade a Willys and Scout II axles are considered to be the axles to use for this project.

Probably 5 years back now but I paid $300 for a set of Scout II Dana 44 's. The rear went in my buddy's wagon and I used a lot of the front axle pieces (but not the housing) for building the D44 front axle for my 3B. Rewelding the spring perches to correct the caster isn't that big a deal. The only downside is you are still stuck with the external type hubs. That said, if you use studs to mount them, I've never had a problem-at least with Warns. And that includes 4.5 decades use behind several sbc's.

 

[Hedgehog]

It took some effort on my part, but I have a set of Scout II axles. I paid a little more than I wanted to, but they are in decent shape on the outside. After popping the rear cover I find the inside, not so good. I should have known better. The gearing is 3.09, I want 3.54's and a tru track Limited slip so as long as the shafts are good I really have no complaints.

 

[Posi]

If your planning to keep the F-head (I'm assuming you are because you asked for the original carb) then you will not like the 3.09's or 3.54s, not enough gearing for the 72 HP tractor engine especially pulling a 3200lb wagon. All f-heads came from the factory with 5.38s.
Maybe a better choice would be to keep what you have and add an OD.

 

[Hedgehog]

Posi - Ohh don't I know it. The 134 will NOT pull the 3.09's. I am sort of splitting some of my threads here. I was asking about price in this thread, never really intended on mentioning the Wagon. I sort of broke my own rules.

I very much want to keep the Wagon stock. It is my intension to get her running and driving so I physically know what I've got. But, in the back of my mind I also know that a 45-50 MPH vehicle won't cut it in todays world. I was feeling out what various components would sell for and got myself in an ethical corner. A guy popped up ready and willing to sell along with a sad story about needing money, I did place a Craigslist Want add. To keep my integrity intact I bought his axles.

In a few years, if I should make the leap the Wagon will get a fuel injected Chevy Vortec V6 4.3L - T-18 /Dana 20 - Scout axles with 3.54's and Tru Trac Carriers. Power steering through a Saginaw gear box and possibly AC. ..... Oh and a radio.

You are correct, I'm not completely stuck with what I have. According to Willys America, a Warn (goes in the PTO hole in a D18 Transfer Case ) or even a Borg Warner electric Overdrive (that's what they call it that only goes in the final drive for 2 WD only) along with 16" rims will turn the Wagon into a 55-60 mph vehicle. IT is possible to run both over drives, but there is NO WAY even a big engine can handle both when engaged.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

HH-Go with a Power-Lock, LSD(front & rear)if you can.
W A Y better the the TL.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

We are talking about something that might happen WAY in the future. Remember the Eaton TrueTrac (not Tru Trac)is a Helical Gear driven Limited slip. Its not a Trac Loc or any one od a number of clutch driven limited slips. My CJ has one in the front. It's quiet and tame until one of the wheels slips, then it locks up like a beast. It's not a full locker, but compared to other limited slips it is very close. And it doesn't wear out.