Axle seal replacement

[banjerman]

Ok new problem, new thread!
Trying to get the flange off my rear axle to replace the leaking seal. I have an '85 CJ with model #20 rear end.
Tried a 3 jaw puller, 2' breaker bar and a propane torch trying to get this sucker to break loose. I was standing on that breaker bar and tearing up the threaded end of the puller but it wont budge. Do ya think a different puller, like what the manual calls for is the ticket?

 

[Old Dog]

they are a , be sure to use a good puller and leave the nut on or it will come flying off.

sounds like a good time to go to one piece axles.

 

[banjerman]

So what's involved in going to an upgraded axle? Will I have to get into the diff to do this? I have a catalog that lists the upgraded stuff, just not sure what I'd have to do besides put out some bucks. I'm up for new things.
Thanks for responding.

 

[Old Dog]

you just need to pull the old axles and instal the new 1 oiece axles, pretty simple swap. Oh yea you don't need to pull the hubs just take the whole axle out. The hardest part is fitting the spacers that come with the new axles. But it's really a piece of cake.

 

[Old Dog]

I should add if you can't get the hub off you could pull the whole axle and have it pressed off.
But really if you have the extra cash I would go the 1 piece route

 

[coldwater]

More good advice from the Dog. IMO It's never worth the grief and not worth one cent to fool with those damn axles when they out or need work. Just pop in a set of one piece units and walk away for good. Easy swap, and not a big money item for what you get in upgrade.

 

[Old Dog]

you just need to pull the old axles and instal the new 1 oiece axles, pretty simple swap. Oh yea you don't need to pull the hubs just take the whole axle out. The hardest part is fitting the spacers that come with the new axles. But it's really a piece of cake.

I need to quit posting at bed time, you need to take the hubs off to get the brake backing plate off. sorry about that.

 

[banjerman]

Great, that sounds like the plan then. I liked the part when you said I didn't need to pull the hub. But then I do. LOL
Where do I find the right puller? A rental place I would assume?

 

[CJ]

Old Dog - you were right the first time... You don't have to pull the hub to remove the complete axle assembly. You will have to pull the hub to change the seals and bearings though. I have pulled the assembly off of a 20 with out pulling the hub.

If you plan on changing to one piece axles - unbolt the 4 backing plate bolts. Take a brake drum and slid it over the hub so the drum is on BACKWARDS. You want the opening facing away from the brakes... Put on three lug nuts, but only screw them on a few threads... Now you have an instant slide hammer, just push the drum against the axle and yank it to the outside. The force of a few blows should be enough to break loose the bearing pack and pull the axle.

If you just want to pull the hub you really should get a large slide hammer hub puller or even better, rent a real hub puller from your local auto parts store.

View attachment 1133


Remove the nut on the end of the axle, put the puller on the three wheel studs, tighten the out of the puller (as tight as you can to tension everything) then hit the end of the puller with a BFH to induce a vibration into the hub and axle - should pop right off. Well, that is the theory anyway!

If it still won't come off, once you remove the axle - a quick trip to your local machine shop should do they trick. I had to use a 50 ton press on once!

 

[banjerman]

Sounds like a good plan CJ. So if I understand everything correctly, the one piece axles will just slide in and bolt up with no problems. I'd be crazy not to do this upgrade. Thanks guys, I appreciate your help.

 

[CJ]

Well, they don't exactly just slide in. You will need to assemble the seal and the bearings on the shaft and lock them in place with the press ring. A long piece of pipe that fits over the axle works very well for pushing the parts on if you don't have an axle press.

Here is a shot of a few different kits.

AMC Model 20 Rear Axle for Jeep CJ5, Jeep CJ7, & CJ8 Scrambler

The 'Superior' axles at the bottom of the page are, well superior - you just need to look at what your budget allows...

 

[Old Dog]

Here they are a little cheaper Superior Axle and Gear EV20E - Superior Axle and Gear Evolution Series Rear Axle Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com


Hey CJ just to clear my head since it's been a few years, don't the hubs have to come off to get the brake backing plates off? I was thinking the hole in the backing plate was to small to let the axle bearing slide through.

 

[CJ]

~~~Hey CJ just to clear my head since it's been a few years, don't the hubs have to come off to get the brake backing plates off? I was thinking the hole in the backing plate was to small to let the axle bearing slide through.

Good price on the axles (though they don't have them in stock for two weeks )

Well, I forgot to include one little part (if I remember correctly)... On some you have to disconnect the brake and parking brake lines to pull the plate off with the axle! On others the hole in the backing plate is large enough so it doesn't interfere with the bearing (uses a bearing cap).

If you then have to get the backing plates off of the old axle - just split the bearing reatainer with a chisel, remove the bearing and slide the plate off of the axle.

 

[Old Dog]

^^ Ok I seem to remember the hole on my 83 were to small and I had to pull the hubs to get the backing plates off to pull the axles.

 

[CJ]

I think it really depends on the plates. Either way, you can still pull the axle by unbolting the break lines and then pull the assembly. Then if your replacing the axles - use the good old 'blue wrench' to 'extract' that pesky bearing and retaining ring... Or, take it to a machine shop and have them press that hub off...

 

[CJ]

You know Old Dog... The more I think about this I'm going to have to change my mind. I remember that the last axles I pulled, the backing plates had been modified (larger hole) and we used shims on the retainer plate (same size as the bearing, same thickness as the plate) to put preload on...

You will have to take the axles off with the backing plates attached and press the bearing off or use the 'blue wrench'...

I found these pictures...

AMC 20 Build pictures by rixcj - Photobucket

 

[banjerman]

I called AMC 4X4 in Glendale and they can get I believe he said the Alloy set for $300 in about a week. 4Wheeler Supply on Washington says it would take 3 or 4 days. Do you guys have a particular supplier that you would recommend? Or is it more dependent on the manufacturer?

 

[banjerman]

You know Old Dog... The more I think about this I'm going to have to change my mind. I remember that the last axles I pulled, the backing plates had been modified (larger hole) and we used shims on the retainer plate (same size as the bearing, same thickness as the plate) to put preload on...

You will have to take the axles off with the backing plates attached and press the bearing off or use the 'blue wrench'...

I found these pictures...

AMC 20 Build pictures by rixcj - Photobucket

Can I assume the "blue wrench" is a cutting torch?

 

[CJ]

Can I assume the "blue wrench" is a cutting torch?

LOL - Yep! If your not keeping the old axles - don't need to pay to have the hubs removed...

 

[Old Dog]

Can I assume the "blue wrench" is a cutting torch?

Yep you got it.
As for the axles yes it dependes on the manf. some are better than others. IMO I would stay with either superior, Moser, or 10x