Blinkers decide when they want to work.
gr8dain
Full Time Jeeper
I need to replace mine. Starting last Thursday I started to get a very rapid flashing when using the turn signals. All bulbs are working so it must be the flasher.
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Blinkers decide when they want to work.
- Thread starter Neuner
- Start date Start date:
- Last post Last post:
I need to replace mine. Starting last Thursday I started to get a very rapid flashing when using the turn signals. All bulbs are working so it must be the flasher.
Knighttime85
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- Whitehouse, Texas
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- 1981 CJ-7 383 SBC, Holley Truck Avenger 670cfm carb with a T350 transmission, Dana 300 transfer case twin sticked, AMC 20 rear end with a Detroit, Dana 30 front, H1 Hummer steering box swap, Sams Offroad steering brace, on 35's, Custom built rock sliders, White Rhino Fab flat fenders, Custom built winch plate with Mile Maker 8500# winch.
I have my brake light issues narrowed down to my turn signal how hard is it to get in there and replace, or fix the connection?
gr8dain
Full Time Jeeper
Turn signal flasher is just hanging out under the dash on the left. Super easy to get to on a CJ.
Knighttime85
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- Whitehouse, Texas
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- 1981 CJ-7 383 SBC, Holley Truck Avenger 670cfm carb with a T350 transmission, Dana 300 transfer case twin sticked, AMC 20 rear end with a Detroit, Dana 30 front, H1 Hummer steering box swap, Sams Offroad steering brace, on 35's, Custom built rock sliders, White Rhino Fab flat fenders, Custom built winch plate with Mile Maker 8500# winch.
Hmm i'm not sure that is the problem then. When I turn my right blinker on and press the brake pedal the left brake light works. When I don't have the right blinker on the left brake light does not work. So I think my problem is the connection/connector inside the steering wheel column???
gr8dain
Full Time Jeeper
Try the grounds first. IF it is in the turn signal switch, you can get to the switch by removing the steering wheel. Just get/borrow a wheel puller. Then the switch is easy to find. And you can see where the wires feed down to the connector along the column and under the dash. The connector on my 84 is accessible under the dash easily, but you would need to look down the column to see any frayed wires etc.
Try the grounds first. Run a dedicated ground to the light housing and see if anything changes. Good luck.
Try the grounds first. Run a dedicated ground to the light housing and see if anything changes. Good luck.
Knighttime85
Jeeper
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- Location
- Whitehouse, Texas
- Vehicle(s)
- 1981 CJ-7 383 SBC, Holley Truck Avenger 670cfm carb with a T350 transmission, Dana 300 transfer case twin sticked, AMC 20 rear end with a Detroit, Dana 30 front, H1 Hummer steering box swap, Sams Offroad steering brace, on 35's, Custom built rock sliders, White Rhino Fab flat fenders, Custom built winch plate with Mile Maker 8500# winch.
I need to replace my ignition as well so ill probably just replace the switch while I'm in there.
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- Springfield, Missouri-U.S.A. Earth
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- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
Engine off-Work the turn sig up and down a couple dozen times.
This helps to clean the contacts.
Now try it......
LG
This helps to clean the contacts.
Now try it......
LG
Knighttime85
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- Posts
- 178
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- Location
- Whitehouse, Texas
- Vehicle(s)
- 1981 CJ-7 383 SBC, Holley Truck Avenger 670cfm carb with a T350 transmission, Dana 300 transfer case twin sticked, AMC 20 rear end with a Detroit, Dana 30 front, H1 Hummer steering box swap, Sams Offroad steering brace, on 35's, Custom built rock sliders, White Rhino Fab flat fenders, Custom built winch plate with Mile Maker 8500# winch.
LG I have seen where you have told other people to do that, and I already tried that trick to no avail. I can feel a noticeable difference in the switch when I go from left blinker to right blinker. I can feel it "click" when I turn the left blinker on, but when I push it up to turn the right blinker on is feels "mushy" like there is nothing there. That is why I figured the switch itself is bad.
- Posts
- 14,790
- Thanks
- 55
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri-U.S.A. Earth
- Vehicle(s)
- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
Maybe you need fresh 'blinker-fluid' then.........LOL
Sounds like the plastic cam has broken then.
Make sure you disconnect the battery POS(+)before you tear into the colume.
LG
Sounds like the plastic cam has broken then.
Make sure you disconnect the battery POS(+)before you tear into the colume.
LG
gr8dain
Full Time Jeeper
I replaced my plastic cam for the turn signal switch when I got my CJ years ago. It would not cancel the left turn indicator. Drove me nuts. I always left it blinking. Ugh.
Peanut Butter
Full Time Jeeper
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- 1979 Jeep CJ7 TH400 Automatic 258 I6 Quadratrac Amc 20 rear & Dana 30 front, 32 x 11.5 x 15 tires. Currently a Complete Custom Rebuild in progress.
Also I own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, White, all stock with 4.0L. automatic, and police package. Best part of that is it came with leather seats! This package also has the NP242 Transfer Case, 8.25 rear end, and trailer towing package.
Here's a thread that may help ya'll with the turn signal switch replacement:
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f19/jeep-cj5-steering-column-rebuild-tilt-24062/
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f19/jeep-cj5-steering-column-rebuild-tilt-24062/
Knighttime85
Jeeper
- Posts
- 178
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- Location
- Whitehouse, Texas
- Vehicle(s)
- 1981 CJ-7 383 SBC, Holley Truck Avenger 670cfm carb with a T350 transmission, Dana 300 transfer case twin sticked, AMC 20 rear end with a Detroit, Dana 30 front, H1 Hummer steering box swap, Sams Offroad steering brace, on 35's, Custom built rock sliders, White Rhino Fab flat fenders, Custom built winch plate with Mile Maker 8500# winch.
Excellent info in there and best of all pictures! thanks for the link!!