Lift Kits Body lift removal

[jimonfly]

Hey all, I'm new to the group, but not to Jeeps.

I just bought my first CJ5 , a 1978 model. It was a two owner vehicle. The grandfather purchased it new and I bought it from his grandson with just under 35,000 miles. It sat in storage several years with the uncle pulling it out and doing some upgrades several years ago. These included what looks to be a Superift lift, based on the decal on the springs. I measured the front shackles to be 4", not the stock 3. There are also body lift spacers, four at each location, measuring about 2 inches. It's got 33x12.50 tires, with plenty of clearance.

I don't really like the way it drives, and I don't like the stance. I'd really like to get it closer to stock height, but won't replace wheels and tires until they're worn more. Can I remove just the body lift picks or will that mess something else up? I'm thinking steering column or something like that.

If they can be removed, what's the best way? Do I just start unbolting one spot, move them out and move through the rotation?

Will the 33s clear with 1-2 inches of lift from the springs and shackles?

TIA

 

[TSB8C]

Great looking CJ. I'm wondering about accessing the front hub locks with those wheel caps there. To your question - as long as you can remove the body lift bolts OK, should be no problem removing the "pucks" one position at a time. IMO - start at the rear and move forward. You will need some replacement bushings - stock rubber or poly.

 

[jimonfly]

Thanks! I didn't think about removing them one at a time.

Yeah, the wheels are a little much and no you can't access the hubs. I removed the center caps yesterday to play with 4wd. It seems to work fine, but I'm confused about the shift pattern. There's one stick for the Transmission and then two more. The middle seems to be low, neutral and high and the far right is maybe 4h, 2h and 4l, front to back. The guy I bought it from only used it for shows and Jeep Beach and had never used 4wd.

 

[Belizean]

The 2 sticks will be for the Transfer Case . Mine is left stick for engaging rear axel. Low is at the top, high is at the bottom. Right stick for engaging front axel, with low at the top and high at the bottom. Shift pattern is on the knobs.

 

[jimonfly]

Ok, that makes sense and is more like how I felt it when trying to shift it. The pattern he has in the glovebox seems to be wrong. Where he has 2wd is actually the front neutral, not engaged. So 4H will be both to the rear, 4L is both to the front, and 2H is left rear and right in the middle position. Is there a 2L? And the left is not an Overdrive ?

 

[Belizean]

These are your Transmission gears. Unless someone put a different Transmission in.

 

[jimonfly]

Yes, they are correct. I was confused about the other levers, but I think I understand now.

 

[Belizean]

Just play around in a field or long driveway to practice a little with the shifting and you will figure it out quickly. I overhauled mine and put lower gears in it. The one place I have trouble shifting into is front locked in 4H. I have no problem if I shift the rear in 4H. I’ve talked to a few people and they have said the same thing. Can’t say I’m going to drive around with just the front locked.

 

[CJ]

Thanks! I didn't think about removing them one at a time.

Yeah, the wheels are a little much and no you can't access the hubs. I removed the center caps yesterday to play with 4wd. It seems to work fine, but I'm confused about the shift pattern. There's one stick for the Transmission and then two more. The middle seems to be low, neutral and high and the far right is maybe 4h, 2h and 4l, front to back. The guy I bought it from only used it for shows and Jeep Beach and had never used 4wd.

I have seen that CJ @ Jeep Beach. Glad to see it being transformed. @CJ in Orlando.

 

[flyn hawaiian]

Hey all, I'm new to the group, but not to Jeeps.

I just bought my first CJ5 , a 1978 model. It was a two owner vehicle. The grandfather purchased it new and I bought it from his grandson with just under 35,000 miles. It sat in storage several years with the uncle pulling it out and doing some upgrades several years ago. These included what looks to be a Superift lift, based on the decal on the springs. I measured the front shackles to be 4", not the stock 3. There are also body lift spacers, four at each location, measuring about 2 inches. It's got 33x12.50 tires, with plenty of clearance.

I don't really like the way it drives, and I don't like the stance. I'd really like to get it closer to stock height, but won't replace wheels and tires until they're worn more. Can I remove just the body lift picks or will that mess something else up? I'm thinking steering column or something like that.

If they can be removed, what's the best way? Do I just start unbolting one spot, move them out and move through the rotation?

Will the 33s clear with 1-2 inches of lift from the springs and shackles?

TIA

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View attachment 104154

Nice jeep! I have a 78 CJ5 with 4" lift , 12.5x 33. tires. I would check drive shaft length. I need a longer drive shaft when I lifted mine. Also I did my body mounts 1 side at a time. ( remove the bolts from one side, and loosen the other side.

 

[TSB8C]

I have the same twin-stick shift setup on my Dana 300 x-fer case, with those same shifter knobs and pattern, as Belizean showed. Have used the "front wheel drive" (left knob centered for rear axle in neutral and right knob up for front axle in low) position once when the rear wheels were in mud and spinning but the front wheels had traction. Not a frequently used option for me, but nice when I needed it. Perhaps others that do more wheeling get more use from it. Got the anodized knobs with the shift pattern from Amazon.

Twin stick shift knobs

"flyn hawaiian" - When you did your body lift one side at a time, when did you do the one centered under the grill? The front centered one is why I recommended from back to front (or vice versa) rather than side to side. Whatever works I guess. Maybe it also makes a difference in the amount of lift you're installing as well. To me, the more important factor and tougher part of the job is getting the bolts out and back in. Had to cut into my tub in a few spots to access the "capture nuts" and then replace all the sleeves and bolts when I put it all back together with the poly bushings. Once done it's done; but what a PITA!

 

[jimonfly]

I have the same twin-stick shift setup on my Dana 300 x-fer case, with those same shifter knobs and pattern, as Belizean showed. Have used the "front wheel drive" (left knob centered for rear axle in neutral and right knob up for front axle in low) position once when the rear wheels were in mud and spinning but the front wheels had traction. Not a frequently used option for me, but nice when I needed it. Perhaps others that do more wheeling get more use from it. Got the anodized knobs with the shift pattern from Amazon.

Twin stick shift knobs

"flyn hawaiian" - When you did your body lift one side at a time, when did you do the one centered under the grill? The front centered one is why I recommended from back to front (or vice versa) rather than side to side. Whatever works I guess. Maybe it also makes a difference in the amount of lift you're installing as well. To me, the more important factor and tougher part of the job is getting the bolts out and back in. Had to cut into my tub in a few spots to access the "capture nuts" and then replace all the sleeves and bolts when I put it all back together with the poly bushings. Once done it's done; but what a PITA!

Thanks for the link. I was going to look for them this morning.

 

[Belizean]

TSB8C with the price of those knobs now, I might have to apply some super glue or lock tight on the threads.

 

[flyn hawaiian]

I have the same twin-stick shift setup on my Dana 300 x-fer case, with those same shifter knobs and pattern, as Belizean showed. Have used the "front wheel drive" (left knob centered for rear axle in neutral and right knob up for front axle in low) position once when the rear wheels were in mud and spinning but the front wheels had traction. Not a frequently used option for me, but nice when I needed it. Perhaps others that do more wheeling get more use from it. Got the anodized knobs with the shift pattern from Amazon.

Twin stick shift knobs

"flyn hawaiian" - When you did your body lift one side at a time, when did you do the one centered under the grill? The front centered one is why I recommended from back to front (or vice versa) rather than side to side. Whatever works I guess. Maybe it also makes a difference in the amount of lift you're installing as well. To me, the more important factor and tougher part of the job is getting the bolts out and back in. Had to cut into my tub in a few spots to access the "capture nuts" and then replace all the sleeves and bolts when I put it all back together with the poly bushings. Once done it's done; but what a PITA!

You can remove the center bushing when you're doing either side. I had to cut out the floor to access to caged nuts. Took me about 20 hrs. to replace all of the bushings.I also put a coat of grease on all the flat washers. I used my hi-lift jack and a 2x4 to seperate the body from the frame.

 

[KRUPP]

One more to consider with a body lift install/removal is the clutch bell crank arm. Sometimes people install a drop bracket there, where the pivot attaches to the firewall.
Take a peek and see if you’ll have to remove anything there too.

Nice CJ!