Lift Kits How to I get to where I want to be?

[jimonfly]

I'd like some constructive advice on how to get to what I want. This is my first CJ, all my others have been YJ, JKU or JT.

New to me '78 CJ5 , 358 I6, 3 speed manual. The previous owner replaced the frame, installed a spring and body lift and a Holley Sniper EFI. Some of the work is really nice, some is .

I want to remove the lift(s) and get something closer to stock height, but will still fit the 33's. Most driving will be on the road, wooded trails or orange groves. No rock crawling. I've got 27" to the bottom of the rockers, and I've read stock should be 18". 2 inches is tires and two is body lift, so that's 5" of suspension lift? They are Superlift springs (01-530R-06) with Monroe shocks.

I used MetalCloak on my last Jeeps, but they were all daily drivers. This will be a weekend fun vehicle, and for work when I need to go off-road (ag appraiser). I really don't want to spend $3k on the lift. What should I be looking for to give me closer to a stock height, but still be comfortable?

Problem #1 is because this is an aftermarket frame, the rear body bushing mounts don't line up. They fixed it using a piece of 2" tube steel bolted to the frame/bumper, then bolted to the body 1" outboard, with no bushing. Photos attached. I think this could be solved using a piece of plate steel bolted onto the frame mount and then have the busing sit on that, or by cutting and rewelding the mount on the frame. I assume the gas tank will need to be removed to weld there.

Problem #2 is the two front side body mounts have bolts broken off in the nuts, so there's nothing really holding them on. I bought replacement bolts but couldn't get them to go in. At first I thought I bought the wrong size so I pulled one from the middle position to check. The ones I bought are the same size, which led me to find the broken bolts. This also led me to problem 3.

Problem #3 is that now I can't get the bolt I removed back in. It starts then blinds. I'm thinking maybe the nut shifted. Of course it's the middle one so I can't get to it. Is the only way to cut a hole in the floor to access this nut?

Tons of pics for reference, and I appreciate suggestions. I'm not very mechanical and don't have the tools, but I have friends and beer.

 

[TSB8C]

Check here for calculating amount of lift in various spots (body, springs, etc). Lift Calcs

Broken body mount bolts? Welcome to CJs. You may need to cut into the tub from underneath in the "channels" where the captive nuts are or through the floor from above to access them and get them out. This is quite common. When I replaced my body mount bushings, I had to cut into the channels from underneath on a few of them as the bolts were rusted into the nuts and broke off trying to remove them. I used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut a "tab" I could bend out of the way to gain access, then bend back over the opening and weld back shut. Saved going through the floor for me.

Those rear mounts with no bushings must be a great ride </sarcasm>.

The Superlift spring part # you mentioned states it's 2.5", not 5". What about shackles? Any extra length there? Stock would have been 3" eye-to-eye.

 

[jimonfly]

Check here for calculating amount of lift in various spots (body, springs, etc). Lift Calcs

Broken body mount bolts? Welcome to CJs. You may need to cut into the tub from underneath in the "channels" where the captive nuts are or through the floor from above to access them and get them out. This is quite common. When I replaced my body mount bushings, I had to cut into the channels from underneath on a few of them as the bolts were rusted into the nuts and broke off trying to remove them. I used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut a "tab" I could bend out of the way to gain access, then bend back over the opening and weld back shut. Saved going through the floor for me.

Those rear mounts with no bushings must be a great ride </sarcasm>.

The Superlift spring part # you mentioned states it's 2.5", not 5". What about shackles? Any extra length there? Stock would have been 3" eye-to-eye.

The Lift Calc link is how I calculated mine. 27.5" at the bottom of the rocker, less 18" stock = 9.5". I'm on 33's, which is 2", for 7.5", and there is 2" of body lift, which equates to 5.5" of suspension lift. The shackles are 4", not 3, so that accounts for 1/2" of the lift, leaving 5" for the springs. It also looks like the same springs are on the front and rear (all "R"), instead of the "F" being on the front.

I'll look at cutting into the channels rather than the floor. That seems less invasive and easier to cover up later. The videos I've seen going through the floor show a 4" hole saw, which seems hard to cover up later. I don't have carpet, and the floors are bed-lined.

And, yes, the ride is not great with the steel tubes on the rear.

 

[TSB8C]

I've seen springs add more or less lift than advertised. My rear springs claimed a 4" lift, but didn't provide that amount. I had to add longer shackles to achieve the lift amount I wanted and to match the front springs of a different brand. So wouldn't be surprised there. I also agree on the 4" holes in the floor. Also no carpet and just bed lined. In my case it was much easier to just cut through the channels and weld them closed. Slight grinding and some paint and all good.