The best way I have found to bleed the brakes is to put a length of 1/8 inch vacuum line on the end of the bleed port and and drop the other end in a glass jar with enough fluid in it to keep the hose end submerged. Open the valve and pump the brake until the bubbles stop. close the valve, remove the hose and go to the next closest. Keep an eye on the reservoir level and keep the end of the hose submerged as long as the valve is open. Your way works well enough but this way you don't blow fluid all over the floor and in fact you can just dump it back in the reservoir.
did you replace the master as well??
Did you prime the master cylinder??
One other thing to remember, Brake fluid is the best paint remover in the world. It will go to bare metal before you can wipe it off.
Not sure if I understand. Do you bleed the brakes with 2 people? If you have someone hold the brake pedal down as you tighten up the bleeder valve that should work. If you press on the brake untill fluid shoots out. Then get out. The brake will suck air when you release the pedal. Never release the pedal until you can tighten the bleeder valve. Otherwise you will get air in the brake lines.
Not sure what you mean here?did you depress the button on the proportioning valve??
Yes i primed it.Did you prime the master cylinder??
One other thing to remember, Brake fluid is the best paint remover in the world. It will go to bare metal before you can wipe it off.
Thats what im thinking for the front brake! because after my buddy pumped the brakes and i loosened the bleeder nothing really came out just kinda dripped...so i did it like 5 times and finally it shot out and it tightened it. But i still dont have any pressure really...i drove it to work today bc i had no choice but i have to pump the brakes about 5 times before it stops hitting the floor. BTW is it ok to drive on the busted bearing???I remember when I bled my rear brakes...I thought they would never bleed. I swear it took forever, I was beginning to think I had a leak in the system pulling in air somewhere. Eventually, I was successfull.
Thats what im thinking for the front brake! because after my buddy pumped the brakes and i loosened the bleeder nothing really came out just kinda dripped...so i did it like 5 times and finally it shot out and i tightened it. But i still dont have any pressure really...i drove it to work today bc i had no choice but i have to pump the brakes about 5 times before it stops hitting the floor. BTW is it ok to drive on the busted bearing???I remember when I bled my rear brakes...I thought they would never bleed. I swear it took forever, I was beginning to think I had a leak in the system pulling in air somewhere. Eventually, I was successfull.
ANYONE got a link on how to replace a front wheel bearing? youtube only has rear ones
Don't just walk away from that shop! Run!
All axles have some sort of bearing supporting the hub or the wheel. The Dana 30 has an inner and outer wheel bearing as well as a needle bearing that supports the axle shaft.
Did the grinding start after the brake replacements or has it been there for a while?
Your going to need to dig into the axle, take it apart and do some diagnoses. I suspect that a shoe is not installed correctly, the star wheel has fallen down or something along those lines.
Do you have locking hubs? I would look very closely at those breaks before I took a hub apart.
Interesting that you have a 77 with drum breaks on the front, disks were the preferred choice after 75.
Dana 30 break down #1 -->> Dana Model 30 Front Axle for Jeep CJ5, CJ7, & CJ8 Scrambler at Morris 4x4 Center
Brakes -->> Jeep CJ5, CJ7 & CJ8 Scrambler Brake Parts
Online service manual -->> Jeep Informational Center at Morris 4x4 Center