Brakes and such

[oldjoe]

Ok, I am new to the Jeep world. I am restoring a very rusty 1960 CJ5 which has been sitting in a cowpasture for about 15 years. I rebuilt the Master cyl. and made new brake lines. Now I need to address the wheel cylinders. Only problem is that I cannot seem to get the drums off. I know that there has to be a little secret here that I am not privey too.... Thanks for any info.
Joe

 

[thiswontbetooexpensive]

I bet they are seized up. Try and using a really big puller set after you lube up the center where it meets the hub well.

BFH won't do you much good here. A little hammer with well placed taps should do the trick.......

Try and get a pressure washer inside the little holes in the back if you can.


This won't be too expensive Dear! That's what I keep saying. Over and over again.

 

[tinhorn]

The secret is probably rust. On the other hand, my Chilton book says you have to drive or press out the lug bolts. I'm not sure this is right.

You may need to back off the brake adjustment. You can spend $100+ on a drum puller or you can go to youtube and view some of the low-buck processes there for getting those suckers off.

 

[73CJ]

The star wheel adjuster has to be backed way off. They can be rusted and then it gets interesting.

Can you rotate the drums?

More than likely the drums are shot. Worst case, get the torch out and have at them. Don't over heat the axle. Cut cool cut cool. . .

 

[thiswontbetooexpensive]

The star wheel adjuster has to be backed way off. They can be rusted and then it gets interesting.

Can you rotate the drums?

More than likely the drums are shot. Worst case, get the torch out and have at them. Don't over heat the axle. Cut cool cut cool. . .

Agreed. I got both of my rear drums for less than $50 for the set without core returns. I haven't cut drums off before, but have a lot of time behind a cutting torch. A wet rag is your friend. A bucket of ice water is handy to re-cool the rag as well.


This won't be too expensive Dear! That's what I keep saying. Over and over again.

 

[tinhorn]

Judging by the pictures in my Chilton manual, the star adjusters are best manipulated after setting your Jeep up on your workbench or table where they can be easily accessed instead of trying to work on them laying on your back in the shadows of the vehicle while wearing your reading glasses so you can see what you're doing.

 

[73CJ]

You have to back them off by going through the slot in the backing plate. They came with rubber plugs.

Once removed, they can be cleaned up on the bench.

 

[oldjoe]

There seems to be something different about these drums from what I see in the parts book. First off, they appear to be 11" instead of 9". Also there is a flat plate on the outside of the drum. Is it possible that these drums are on the inside of the hub with studs pressed through both? Lastly there are no slots on the bottom of the backing plates for backing the brakes off. I know, there has to be right? Well, there aren't.
Scratching my head here.....

 

[73CJ]

Pics needed. . .

 

[thiswontbetooexpensive]

Pics needed. . .

What he said.


This won't be too expensive Dear! That's what I keep saying. Over and over again.

 

[oldjoe]

Pics needed. . .

Here are a couple of shots of the front with the lockout removed.

 

[oldjoe]

Hey guys, with a little dirty work I finally figured it out. It seems that this old jeep has been modified with some more recent parts. The origional drums, hubs, and backing plates were replace somewhere along the way with more recent counterparts. This explains the 11 inch shoes. On these more recent hubs, the drum is mounted behind the hub flange with the studs pressed through from behind. With this settup, the only way to get to the shoes is to remove the spindle assymbly. Anyway thanks for your answers and I am sure that I will have many more questions before driving off into the sunset with this little Jeep. Old Joe

 

[mtnwhlr]

Glad to hear you got it, working on old Jeep is a big learning experience. Do you feel any smarter?

 

[73CJ]

Pics made it clear as you figured out, you have to pull the hubs.

 

[tarry99]

Ok, I am new to the Jeep world. I am restoring a very rusty 1960 CJ5 which has been sitting in a cowpasture for about 15 years. I rebuilt the Master cyl. and made new brake lines. Now I need to address the wheel cylinders. Only problem is that I cannot seem to get the drums off. I know that there has to be a little secret here that I am not privey too.... Thanks for any info.
Joe

On a 1960 some of the early Dana 44 's had 3 flathead screws that were holding the drum to the hub...........look around the flat surface that the wheel would locate against.........3 sloted screws..........need an impact driver after you put some heat to them............although sometimes you get lucky and they will unscrew..............Obviously make sure the brakes are backed off via the star adjuster.