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building a 304

building a 304

IOPort51

NOT the voice of reason Jeep-CJ.com
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Somewhere along the line I managed to end up with a relatively low mileage AMC 304 taking up space in my shop. I am toying withe idea of building/rebuilding it for an undetermined project some time in the some when.

It will be balanced, have a 3 angle valve job, after market intake and carb with headers.

now for the questions: when installing a new cam shaft is it necessary to use new bearings?

I understand the AMC V8s have or develop oiling problems, would anyone care to elaborate on this?

I understand the distributor gear can be a problem, are there any other Quirks I need to be aware of??:cool:
 
I would replace the cam bearings while rebuilding the rest of the engine.
In fact they should knock them out before hot tanking it.
If it were a fresh rebuild with only a few thousand miles I would say maybe not, depending on how they looked.
 
Yes, if you are going to tear the bottom end apart, balance it, and replace the main and rod bearings, I recommend you replace the cam bearings also. Oil system mods are fairly easy, follow the instructions. Hardest one (and really not hard) was tapping the main oil galley and running a supplemental oil line back to the 6/8 cylinder lifter oiling galley. Instead of hard line, I used AN fittings and a pre-made braided stainless line that I picked up from Summit.
 
Somewhere along the line I managed to end up with a relatively low mileage AMC 304 taking up space in my shop. I am toying withe idea of building/rebuilding it for an undetermined project some time in the some when.

It will be balanced, have a 3 angle valve job, after market intake and carb with headers.

now for the questions: when installing a new cam shaft is it necessary to use new bearings?

I understand the AMC V8s have or develop oiling problems, would anyone care to elaborate on this?

I understand the distributor gear can be a problem, are there any other Quirks I need to be aware of??:cool:

When I take my blocks (any brand) to the machine shop I always have them knock in new cam bearings and freeze plugs no point of spending a lot of dough on a rebuild just to have some 50 cent bearing blow it up, my machine shop always got the stuff as a kit from his supplier. I also love having my 3 angle valve jobs done on a serdi valve machine, I have them cut the throat back (better flow think head porting)
The distributor gear problem is because of the chinese :dung: not being matched hardness with the factory cam gear, keep your stock gear and swap it onto whatever distro you use that way you have proven matched set
much love to the author of the attached oil mod documents, I think he is even form Texas :chug:
AMC V8 Oiling System Modifications
 
I would replace the cam bearings while rebuilding the rest of the engine.
In fact they should knock them out before hot tanking it.
If it were a fresh rebuild with only a few thousand miles I would say maybe not, depending on how they looked.

I have built quite a few and #1 is if you are boring .030, calculate you compression. Some of the AMC 304 's (most all later AMC's) come with a dished piston to lower the compression.

Amc's have a decent combustion head and flow from the factory. A flat top piston with regular "eye brow" valve reliefs will make a dramatic improvement.

Installing a new cam, with the wrong lobe center, along with stock compression, will offer very little performance considering the time and money spent.

My last build was a 360, installing factory 343 pistons puts the calculated compression over 10.5 to one. It really pushes the limit of pump gas but it. But it can handle a decent cam making the dynamic comp ratio under 10.

these can get you close.

Engine Compression Ratio (CR) Calculator

http://www.summitracing.com/expertadviceandnews/calcsandtools/compression-calculator
 

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