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Carb concerns

Carb concerns

cyberworm

Jeeper
Posts
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Location
Venice CA
Vehicle(s)
1984 CJ7 258 I6 Carter 2BBL. 33" Hercules Trail Digger M/T 6" spring lift D300/T15. Aluminum Valve Cover.
Good afternoon everyone. I'm looking at purchasing an 84 CJ7 with the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l .

I've asked another question in a different section, but now I have another one. :)

I've put a deposit down on this CJ, and climbed all around and under the vehicle checking out points that need to be repaired, replaced, etc. On thing that the dealer had mentioned to me is that the carb _might_ need to be rebuilt. I know the basics about car maintenance, though in my life all of my vehicles have been fuel injected. What should I look for in terms of problems with this carburetor and whether or not it should be rebuilt? I plan on taking the vehicle to a mechanic of a throuroug inspection before finalizing the deal. If there's a problem(s) that haven't been addressed, the dealer will take care of them as part of the price of the Jeep (he'll send the carb out to be rebuilt if it's needed).

Honestly, I feel like since he's bringing it up I want to say "well, just send it out to be rebuilt so there's no question about it at all, either way." I would like to be in a better position to look at it myself and point out any issues I may see, before I have a mechanic look at it as well. Kind of a "two against one" position, though ultimately I'll go by what my mechanic reports.

Advice/tips?
 
Your 84 should have a carter bad 2 bbl electronic feedback carb. Not exactly the greatest piece of engineering IMO. Remaned from parts houses $250.00-$300.00 . A good rebuild around the same. Here's the rub bbds are bad for wearing out the throttle plate housing (the very base of the carb with the rotating shaft when you move the throttle) where it rotates in the plate ,if this is loose a rebuild may net you nothing,whereas a GOOD rebuilder will put a bushing in to compensate for wear. If its worn your probably better off with a store bought carb. Although I've seen them be as bad or worse than the one you've got at least you can say "hey this ones no good either" and send it back.
Listen for valvetrain noise as rocker arms and pivots will wear causing noise and with no adjustment replacement is around $15.00 times 6.
Also have them check the axle housings themselves for straightness. These axles were more than adaquate for everyday use it didn't take much to bend them into a smile I.E. don't jump them!
 
The later model CJs had a rather complex emmissions system. Consider it an accomplishment if you can figure it out. There is quite an assortment of vacumn lines also. I got a noticeable improvement just by replacing the vacumn lines. Another issue you should be concerened with is checking the oil pressure when you start it up, it will probably be on the low side, so take note of that. You are purchasing a very old vehicle, good luck with that. A remanufactured carb sounds like a good bet.
 
Thanks for the extra engine advice. Fortunately, this particular engine was rebuilt about a year ago, and has (at least I've been told) been sitting for about a year. The engine sounds good overall, though there were some issues that I am having them repair. Otherwise, the carburetor (it's a 2 chamber/barrel) I guess is the last thing that I was concerned with. Overall the engine sounds pretty solid, and was rebuilt by a local machine shop here in L.A. Once I find out who, I'm going to investigate a little to see what all was done and why it was rebuilt. The dealer wasn't entirely sure (or was just trying to downplay it) but thinks it may have seized up.

A couple of things that had me a little concerned, is that the PCV valve on the front of the engine (towards the fan/radiator) seemed really loose. Is that normal? The other thing, (and this is technically for another forum section) is what looks like engine oil on the Transmission (maybe the Transfer Case , off the top of my head I can't recall). There's no spots underneath it, so I'm not sure if it was from a sloppy oil change, or if I should be concerned that something is leaking from the casing? Looking around here, it looks like you can use motor oil in the transfer and/or Transmission ?
 
The pcv valve on the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l six is mounted on top of the valve cover with a rubber gromment and that gromment could be worn out. The oil you see could be from a leaky valve cover which is not uncommon. Using proper sealants with correct application the valve cover can seat quite well.
 
Yep. The rubber grommet/gasket is there. It just seems loose, as in, if I reach past it, and accidentally brush against it, it will move. Is that normal?
 
The PVC valve will be a bit (loose) its just pushed into the gromet.
 
And NOOOOO! You can't use motor oil in anything except the motor!
 
And NOOOOO! You can't use motor oil in anything except the motor!

Haha. Ok. :). Couldn't hurt to ask. I've been browsing the forum like crazy reading about everything everyone here is doing/have done. It's enjoyable, and from everything I've read, I've got a fair amount of respect for all of ya. Can't wait to join in all of the fun.:chug:
 

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