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Carburator

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Carburator
T

Turbotom

Jeeper
Posts
34
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Location
Minneapolis MN
Vehicle(s)
83 cj7, TF999, D300, D30, AMC20
I recently bought a 1983 CJ in pretty good shape but of course needs some tender loving care.

I first bought an aluminum valve cover. Put it on and my severe oil leak went away. Or it appears to as I haven't been able to drive it much due the no idle.

This brings me to my next task getting the motor to idle. after reading forums about the nutter bypass I performed the wiring portion of the procedure then pull the stepper motor to find it completely froze up. I sprayed some cleaner in it without much success then put it back it. I looked down in the carb and the metering needle shoulder look like they are 3/16/to 1/4 of an inch from the back of the carb. Started the vehicle and let the choke do it's job as soon as the engine warmed up and the choke opened the engine will not idle. I can't time the motor because I can't get an idle. I can't follow the idle set up procedures because I can't get it to idle setting the high speed idle on the second cam. I pulled the Venturi cluster out and things looked good. My next step is to pull it again to see if they are possibly plugged.

I would like to keep the carb but feel it's going to be a constant pain. I see a lot of thoughts pro and con to doing a weber conversion. I look at a conversion as a bit of a blessing but like originality at the same time. I can eliminate a lot of devices that could easily fail given there age.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
 
Instead of a weber I think you would be better off with a MC2100.
 
I like the MC2100 as well, great carb and has a round air cleaner mounting plate to boot


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Also, what about rebuilding what you have? It costs about $20 for the gasket kit


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Thanks for your responses. I'm thinking rebuilding the carb makes the most sense for now then I can drive it around for a while to see what other issues I have to deal with. The problem is the stepper motors seized up. I'm going to try and loosen it up or I'll have to buy one on eBay. I found one for 49.00. I did the nutter bypass so I just need the stepper motor for setting the needle valves.

I'll let you know if I get it running with the carb rebuild.

Any particular rebuild kit?
 
If you did the nutter. You don't need the stepper at all.
Also-You removed the signal to the stepper to operate.
Get a vacuum gauge and turning each idle-mix screw the EXACT same from fully closed. Come out about 1 3/4 turns and tune to the highest vac reading with steady needle. Keep your idle around 650-700 rpm with you headlights on.
Make sure your manifold bolts are TIGHT and all vacuum hoses seal well.
Watch out for the Ebay :dung:. Lots of those are china knock-offs and they are 100% POS.
I get my kits from NAPA.......
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
If you did the nutter. You don't need the stepper at all.
Also-You removed the signal to the stepper to operate.

LG
Click to expand...

But it still needs to be set all the way in for it to work the way it's suppose to.
 
I understand I took the stepper motor out of the picture but I still need it and can't move the needles because it's sexed up. It physically still needs to be on the carb and from what I'm reading the needles need to be set about an 1/8 inch from the rear of the carb.
Thanks for the setting advice about buying on Ebay and how to set it up once I get the needles set right.
 
Remove the stepper w/pins. Pull the pins outward as far as they will go. Reinstall.:chug:
LG
 
When I had the stepper motor off the other day I couldn't move the pins in or out. I'll try what you say. Maybe I can figure out how to get them moving one way or the other.

The more I think about this the more I think I have more problems than just the stepper motor. The carb was rebuilt a couple of years ago. I pulled the carb last weekend to pull the stepper motor and at the same time I pulled the top of the carb off to pull the Venturi. the carb looked really good inside.

I'm thinking maybe I'm missing a vacuum leak. Are there issues with the intake manifold leaking?
 
Take the carb off. Turn it over-see the 2 screws that hold the base to the center section? Make sure they are 'TITE'.
Have you ck'd the bolts on the intake to be sure they are 'TITE'?
The stepper pins will move. They are kinda hard to pull and you have to pull both at the same time.
LG
 
I bought a rebuilt one from Carquest when I gave up on the one I had and it ran even worse then the one I had. After tearing into it I found the metering rods were sticking. I think these Carbs are garbage. Get a MC2150 and save yourself all the headaches.
 
Thanks guys. I'm going to pull it and play with it a little longer. I don't want the carb to win. When and if it does I'll look into the MC carbs.
 
I've got the 2150 on my AMC 360, but several jeep guys like the 2100 better. They say that the altitude compensation device on the 2150 reduces gas mileage. I'm thinkin' simple is better.
 
I pulled my oem carb today and took it apart and cleaned everything up. Ran a wire through the venturi's put it all back together and it worked. I can now get the engine to idle. I timed it and it's running pretty darn good. I still need to play with the sol vac to get it working properly but I'm on the right path. I was so close to buying the MC 2150 this morning but didn't. Feeling pretty good about things now. I can at least drive it for a bit and start documenting what I need to do next. By the way I got the stepper motor adjusted. I pulled on the needles until it came apart. I found out to adjust it you actually need to screw it in and out by turning the center post between the needles.
 
What is wrong with the sol-vac?
Sol-Vac
LG
 
I'm not sure exactly. I haven't really had a chance to set it up. I need to get a tach so I can run it through it's set up procedures to see if it works properly. Right now I've bypassed the solenoid on the valve cover so it has constant vacuum keeping the plunger out. I then set my idle with it this way. I did put 12 volts to it last week and the plunger moved so it works.
 
Do the vac and 12vdc settings separate. That is-disco the 12vdc for setting the vac side rpm, and the vac(plug the hose)when set'n the 12vdc rpm.
LG
 
Just put on a Weber WK 551 and could not be happier with the results. My carter was apparently trashed. Bolted Weber on and it cranked and ran amazingly from the get go. I bought the fuel pressure regulator, but have not put it on yet. So far the power is even and is leaps and bounds better with out of the box settings. I test it more this week, but so far Best 250 spent on my CJ so far.
 
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