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'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
Patched my frame on my CJ8 for 4 years running (failing inspections) before I bit the bullet and found a frame on CL only 3 hours away. Being on the east coast, I was prepared to drive a while to get one. I got lucky as this one was rust free.
How long did it take to do the swap? My CJ7 has nothing but power steering and few wires, a plus. Being a fiberglass tub it's lighter. How about additional cost?
Right off I see a new body mount kit.
New motor mounts.
A good power washing and POR15 for the frame.
Changing all the fluids front & rear end and Transfer Case .
Need leaf spring bushings.
How long did it take to do the swap? My CJ7 has nothing but power steering and few wires, a plus. Being a fiberglass tub it's lighter. How about additional cost?
Right off I see a new body mount kit.
New motor mounts.
A good power washing and POR15 for the frame.
Changing all the fluids front & rear end and Transfer Case .
I would plan on everything you take apart being worn and needing replaced, then be pleasantly surprised if it doesn't.... not being a wise ***, that's what I did. You've got steering shaft wear parts, stabilizer bar bushings, shocks, exhaust hanger hardware, drive line u-joints, etc. hard parts should be ok, but figure every nut, bolt, joint, bushing, bearing, and hose will need attention. The actual disassembly isn't bad - I was lucky and the PO that did the tub swap lathered all the hardware in anti-seize so I didn't break a single bolt, but you figure all that hardware that hasn't been done that way has been in place for 30 years and likes where it is.
Chances are your rear drive shaft u-joints are ok, as you would have noticed issues already, but check the front drive shaft and axle u-joints. But do expect broken bolts or the nuts breaking loose and just spinning. Soak everything in PB Blaster for a week prior to disassembly. And bag and label EVERYTHING!! Amazing what you will forget in a month.
My biggest problem is space - I have a cluttered one car garage - NOT conducive to a complete disassembly. If you have the room, a frame swap isn't really that bad. But I warn you - seriously - do NOT paint anything prior to reassembly......... when I got the donor frame home, I pressure washed it inside and out, got it all painted, then realized everything I was about to put back on looked like . 4 years later I'm just now ready for paint.......
Take your time, keep everything organized, and you shouldn't have any trouble. Get the Jeep up on jack stands with the front accessible. Swap the springs and axles over first, and set that on wheel dollies. Then rent / borrow / buy off Craigslist an engine hoist and swap over engine, Transmission , and Transfer Case . Get the fuel tank, exhaust, steering stuff swapped over. Install new fuel and brake lines along with a new fuel pump and fuel filter - you'll thank yourself later. Once the rolling chassis is done. Empty the tub, stick the new body mounts on the new frame, move the tub over, then the grill, fenders, and hood, get them all straight and lock em down. Reinstall all the from the tub, have a beer, and relax........ Doesn't sound too bad when you say it fast LOL
Tough to buy sight unseen..........most of J&W's vehicles came from the West but no guarantee as he bids on many wrecked auctions and no telling where they originated from............most of the CJ7 era frames had rust problems in the rear boxed section just to the rear of where the axle would be although in the extreme climates where salt is used on roads they can be rusted almost anywhere but mostly on the bottom side of the rail front / rear where moisture and chemicals collect...
Throttle Down Customs makes a good product and at $1900 bucks plus shipping as compared to other used frames near $1500 net cost at least there is no surprise.........
I would plan on everything you take apart being worn and needing replaced, then be pleasantly surprised if it doesn't.... not being a wise ***, that's what I did. You've got steering shaft wear parts, stabilizer bar bushings, shocks, exhaust hanger hardware, drive line u-joints, etc. hard parts should be ok, but figure every nut, bolt, joint, bushing, bearing, and hose will need attention. The actual disassembly isn't bad - I was lucky and the PO that did the tub swap lathered all the hardware in anti-seize so I didn't break a single bolt, but you figure all that hardware that hasn't been done that way has been in place for 30 years and likes where it is.
Chances are your rear drive shaft u-joints are ok, as you would have noticed issues already, but check the front drive shaft and axle u-joints. But do expect broken bolts or the nuts breaking loose and just spinning. Soak everything in PB Blaster for a week prior to disassembly. And bag and label EVERYTHING!! Amazing what you will forget in a month.
My biggest problem is space - I have a cluttered one car garage - NOT conducive to a complete disassembly. If you have the room, a frame swap isn't really that bad. But I warn you - seriously - do NOT paint anything prior to reassembly......... when I got the donor frame home, I pressure washed it inside and out, got it all painted, then realized everything I was about to put back on looked like . 4 years later I'm just now ready for paint.......
Take your time, keep everything organized, and you shouldn't have any trouble. Get the Jeep up on jack stands with the front accessible. Swap the springs and axles over first, and set that on wheel dollies. Then rent / borrow / buy off Craigslist an engine hoist and swap over engine, Transmission , and Transfer Case . Get the fuel tank, exhaust, steering stuff swapped over. Install new fuel and brake lines along with a new fuel pump and fuel filter - you'll thank yourself later. Once the rolling chassis is done. Empty the tub, stick the new body mounts on the new frame, move the tub over, then the grill, fenders, and hood, get them all straight and lock em down. Reinstall all the from the tub, have a beer, and relax........ Doesn't sound too bad when you say it fast LOL
Good explanation right here. Like I mentioned, I got "new" axles as well so borrowed some wheels and tires to use as I built my rolling chassis. This helped me leave the Scrambler in the driveway while I built the chassis in my garage. I also installed a new gas tank. I only pulled parts off of the old frame as needed. I have an HOA so I needed to keep the Jeep in the driveway looking "drivable". Then one weekend I borrowed an engine hoist, fedd some friends beer and pizza and we moved the drivetrain (and installed a new clutch). Worked in the garage more. Then a few weeks later, fed some friends some more beer and pizza and moved the tub. It went pretty smoothly. Quicker than I thought. And these were both in January with snow on the ground. A lot of snow for the body swap.
I only forgot to undo one wire before moving the tub. That was the pink wire to the sending unit for the fuel. Oops.
Good luck. Patience will help a lot. A friend of mine says he does it in a week. I took many months due to my work, winter weather, and finding out I needed to obtain parts and spending the time to get them.
Tough to buy sight unseen..........most of J&W's vehicles came from the West but no guarantee as he bids on many wrecked auctions and no telling where they originated from............most of the CJ7 era frames had rust problems in the rear boxed section just to the rear of where the axle would be although in the extreme climates where salt is used on roads they can be rusted almost anywhere but mostly on the bottom side of the rail front / rear where moisture and chemicals collect...
Throttle Down Customs makes a good product and at $1900 bucks plus shipping as compared to other used frames near $1500 net cost at least there is no surprise.........
Waiting on pictured from someone in Southern SC about three hours from me. He's parting out a 77 and says the frame is ?good?, heard that one before. Has nothing left but a useless body and four wheels.
We'll see!
I spent the morning under it (in the rain) and I did add the brake lines and fuel lines. I'm a McMaster-Carr fanatic so nuts and bolts should be OK plus there are two places here local that has every nut and bolt ever made.
U-joints look good, shocks don't look to old but won't know till I remove them of course. Front end is tight.
I've had my own HVAC/Plumbing business for more than a decade and I need a plan before I do ANYTHING. Yeah folks call me strange.
Gotcha - well, he won't sell junk I know. He's pretty good to work with. Forgive me for maybe skipping some of the thread...can yours be fixed either by you or someone else? Sure beats a swap in most cases...
OK received pictures from South Carolina today. He want $400.00. I'm thinking if there is no THRU rust when I go see it it's a keeper since everyone else wants about thirteen hundred with delivery. He says the one with the red is the worse one.
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
Not too bad what you can see..... problem is, there's a lot of frame you can't see. Wouldn't it be nice if the sellers would provide accurate descriptions before you make the trip? Surface rust is to be expected and not a big deal. My donor frame had one spot about the size of a playing card I cut out and welded in new steel. Good luck - looking forward to seeing more descriptive pics....
. 4 years later I'm just now ready for paint....... 
Just for that BS I wouldn't buy from them. Sorry.
