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CJ-7 Frame

CJ-7 Frame
shum8 said:
Not too bad what you can see..... problem is, there's a lot of frame you can't see. Wouldn't it be nice if the sellers would provide accurate descriptions before you make the trip? Surface rust is to be expected and not a big deal. My donor frame had one spot about the size of a playing card I cut out and welded in new steel. Good luck - looking forward to seeing more descriptive pics....
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It's supposed to be part free so I can look at it and POKE at it sat morning. I will take a trailer with me since it's a good 3 hour ride.
I told him I will be bringing an awl, chisel and BMFH.
 
Well, when it's all said and done, fix the frame you have, blast it, paint it and sell it... You'll recoup some of the cost. But do know that once you start this project you'll have opened Pandora's Box with regard to all the things (upgrades / freshen-ups) that you'll find you should do "while you have it apart..." :D
 
^^^^:agree:

Like I said earlier - do not but a single can of paint, and throw out any you have already....


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OK forgot about this one just received the pictures. This one is about 4 hours and he has two. This one and another that still had the body on it. He says no THRU rust just plenty of surface. He's asking $250.00.
 
007 said:
Well, when it's all said and done, fix the frame you have, blast it, paint it and sell it... You'll recoup some of the cost. But do know that once you start this project you'll have opened Pandora's Box with regard to all the things (upgrades / freshen-ups) that you'll find you should do "while you have it apart..." :D
Click to expand...
I thought this thru every way I could.:confused:
I am convinced of the low miles, 105,000.0 it has a fiberglass tub, it does run good, front end is tight no wander like my others.
If I start over will I gain anything?
I know I can part it out and at least break even, it came with a fiberglass top and original metal doors and a bikini top and half doors. Which I haven't figured out the purpose of yet. And everything does work.
 
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45frank said:
I thought this thru every way I could.:confused:
I am convinced of the low miles, 105,000.0 it has a fiberglass tub, it does run good, front end is tight no wander like my others.
If I start over will I gain anything?
I know I can part it out and at least break even, it came with a fiberglass top and original metal doors and a bikini top and half doors. Which I haven't figured out the purpose of yet. And everything does work.
Click to expand...

I'm in no way suggesting you part it out and start over... I'm just saying that odds are it won't end with just a frame swap. I mean with everything out it all becomes a consideration - gaskets / seals / clutch / body mounts / engine mounts / Transmission mounts / Transfer Case mounts / exhaust hangers / some wiring / brake lines / and the list goes on and on. I mean, if something is suspect you don't want to put it back on the new frame and it's true that there's no better/easier time to replace a lot of stuff than when you already have it out/off.

That said - when you're done you'll know exactly what you have and how it's put together - so all is not lost. :chug:
 
45frank said:
It's supposed to be part free so I can look at it and POKE at it sat morning. I will take a trailer with me since it's a good 3 hour ride.
I told him I will be bringing an awl, chisel and BMFH.
Click to expand...

Add a heavy duty wire brush, scraper and work gloves to that list.
Don't forget eye protection!
LG
 
007 said:
I'm in no way suggesting you part it out and start over... I'm just saying that odds are it won't end with just a frame swap. I mean with everything out it all becomes a consideration - gaskets / seals / clutch / body mounts / engine mounts / Transmission mounts / Transfer Case mounts / exhaust hangers / some wiring / brake lines / and the list goes on and on. I mean, if something is suspect you don't want to put it back on the new frame and it's true that there's no better/easier time to replace a lot of stuff than when you already have it out/off.

That said - when you're done you'll know exactly what you have and how it's put together - so all is not lost. :chug:
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I totally understand! I have started a list and am up to $700.00 already in mounts, gas and brake lines and as you say the list goes on paint and just keep going, body mount kit and other things.
 
OK Saturday just turned into Monday now. I will be getting one by early next week or at least making a decision. The amount of DISHONESTY is just disgusting!
One says free shipping but at the END says $500.00 Handling Charge.
Another gave me a price over the phone so I asked for pictures and a quote and his quote is now $200.00 more in writing, then I was told between $650.00 and $800.00 for shipping now it's $850.00 for shipping. This is BS. Oh and no pictures they just pick the best available! Really people work like this?
 
Welcome to the world we live in now, everybody is just out to make a buck and don't care who the screw to get it :( I wish you luck
 
Have located a few more locally one only 50 minutes away.
He gave a price raw and Blasted and Powder coated.
What are the Opinions on powder coating a Frame?
 
It would be important to make sure any rust inside a boxed area was handled as best as it can be, just as you would regardless of the coating. It will make grounding things to the frame more difficult, but that's okay just run grounding blocks with direct connections to battery.


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007 said:
It would be important to make sure any rust inside a boxed area was handled as best as it can be, just as you would regardless of the coating. It will make grounding things to the frame more difficult, but that's okay just run grounding blocks with direct connections to battery.


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The tub is fiberglass so I planned on running a block to the rear someplace anyway.
 
PC is a PITA to deal with if you have to weld. Also-The frame rusts from the inside out. Can't PC the inside.
Take your hammer etc, and inspect the bare frame before you buy it.
LG
 
I must of contacted more folk then I thought last week. This one is damaged but only $100.00. And about 4 hrs or so away. With the rain today I didn't get to make my rounds but tomorrow plan on leaving at eight and looking at three and having one here by Friday.
So far the closest is the most expensive and the furthest the cheapest with the one in the middle in the middle. From 50 minutes to 4 hrs.
 
Mine cracked in the same spot. Easy fix with a doubler plate.
LG
 
45frank said:
I must of contacted more folk then I thought last week. This one is damaged but only $100.00. And about 4 hrs or so away. With the rain today I didn't get to make my rounds but tomorrow plan on leaving at eight and looking at three and having one here by Friday.
So far the closest is the most expensive and the furthest the cheapest with the one in the middle in the middle. From 50 minutes to 4 hrs.
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Turn the frame over and look at it from the bottom side.............the rust is always on the inside bottom of the rails lowest point , where dirt , water and road debris can accumulate over time.......
 
tarry99 said:
Turn the frame over and look at it from the bottom side.............the rust is always on the inside bottom of the rails lowest point , where dirt , water and road debris can accumulate over time.......
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I've got a wire brush, hammer, scraper and chisel already in the truck for tomorrow and a good flashlight.
Does anyone before painting the frames drill hole in the low spots to let water drain?
 
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