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CJ7 - New Replacement Tub ?'s

CJ7 - New Replacement Tub ?'s
You do know that you should use rubber body mounts right?
Most people buy the 24" piece from 4wd and cut the piece to lenght as
sometimes the body to frame mounts differ a little.
 
Yea I have the rubber bar cut up. My buddy had already cut it to the 2" pieces.

Something else I thought odd was that the tub does not use the mounts at the bumper crossmember. Only uses the back 2 under the seat between wheel wells. We were thinking we needed to add some extra supports below the roll bar down to frame. I also have a newer style roll bar that mounts to floor behind front seats.

What did you guys use on the floor and on the bottom of the tub? I'm looking at the Raptor Upol spray on kit.

More questions later. I'm still making cardboard templates off old rusty.

Thanks.
 
My body doesn't have any mounts at the back either, but it hasn't been a problem and I carry a toolbox and my cooler in the back when wheel'n.
I do have my roll bar conected to a frame mounted piece of tube though in the rear. Also one of the 1/2" bolts for the front mount on the roll bar goes through the body to the frame mount also.
Not much help on the coating though, mine was gell coated so I didn't do anything extra.
 
I bought a Omix CJ5 tub with all of the sheet metal for around $4000.. It was junk.. Nothing was straight and all of the welds had to be re-done (looks like they did not use a gas on the mig..or used a coat hanger).. Spoke with the vendor's office in GA and after sending 100 photos they would replace it "if" I paid all of the shipping.. I promised myself I would never.. ever.. buy another... After about 60 hrs of work and a gallon of filler its looks "ok".. nothing lined up and everything had to be reworked and modified.. unless you own a body shop or you are a metal working genius.. walk away and get a fiberglass or a used tub..

Ron S


Omix jeep tubs :biggun:
 
So does anyone know why I need a 1" body lift for the glass tub?

I have 2.5 suspension lift plus 3/8 from HD shackles so 2 7/8" total. Going with 32" tires.

I just don't want to mess with steering shaft or clutch extensions.
 
Um, why don't you just get a later model YJ tub? Cheap and mounts right up. With a little modding you can make it look like a 7 tub. I have a YJ tub. Cheapest solution IMO.

Edit, saw you said no YJ tub. If you don't want to spend a lot of money then it is your best bet. I don't really see what the big deal is.
 
Rollingalong said:
I bought a Omix CJ5 tub with all of the sheet metal for around $4000.. It was junk.. Nothing was straight and all of the welds had to be re-done (looks like they did not use a gas on the mig..or used a coat hanger).. Spoke with the vendor's office in GA and after sending 100 photos they would replace it "if" I paid all of the shipping.. I promised myself I would never.. ever.. buy another... After about 60 hrs of work and a gallon of filler its looks "ok".. nothing lined up and everything had to be reworked and modified.. unless you own a body shop or you are a metal working genius.. walk away and get a fiberglass or a used tub..

Ron S


Omix jeep tubs :biggun:
Click to expand...
Or get a Willy Overland tub. They take the junk tubs and rework them. I was impressed with Willys Overlands work. A bit pricier but it fits. ;)
 
I already have the new glass tub in my garage. Right now it's on sawhorses and I'm adding all the holes in the firewall.

No problem with the tub so far. I think I will take some measurements when i get to the shop and see if the extra 1" (2" total spacer length) is a result of the glass tub does not have the U channels across the bottom of the tub. Those channels were about 1" tall.

Just trying to avoid steering shaft extension or having a funky adapter plate for the clutch pivot.

And i don't want any more extra space between 32" tire and the fender flares than I have to have...
 
Well, here's my new fiberglass tub with pretty much all the holes added. I also posted this in my build thread. But it looks like a lot of people are checking this thread out as well.

Not a bad process overall if you have your original tub available. Lots of big pieces of cardboard, a sharpie and an exacto knife. I did rivet in a section from my metal tub for the throttle cable.

My Dremel with a tile cutting bit worked amazingly well. Used a jigsaw for the larger openings. Lots of dust, so be sure to use a respirator and goggles if you do one of these.

Here are some questions for some of you guys that have done fiberglass: 1. I have about 1/2 gallon of POR15 left from my frame. I was thinking to use that on the bottom of tub and engine side of the firewall. ??? I've read that POR15 sticks really well to rough fiberglass. As will be the case for the front of the firewall and the bottom of the tub.

2. I was going to use the Raptor Upol kit on the floor. Any experience there? I've read that's a great kit and works well for floors. Gotta rough it up with some 40 or 60 grit and spray it on. ???


 
Thanks man. I feel good about the decision.

This tub was originally ordered from 4wd Hardware. I am almost positive it was made by Kentrol. It's an older tub that was probably bought 5 or so years ago. A body guy here in town had it for a customer that changed his mind to just repair his steel tub.

It seems strong. I don't plan to do much heavy off-roading in it, so I haven't been too concerned about strength.

The firewall at the pedals / steering is steel reinforced. Looks to be about 3/32" thick steel between 1/8" glass walls.

The floor I think is layered wood / glass. The remaining sides, cowl, etc are pretty thick. I'd say about 3/16-1/4" in most areas.

I will probably reinforce the rear roll bar mount and tie into the frame.

I am also kinda glad it does not have the tailgate option. I found a bumper mounted swing away tire carrier at a local junkyard for $125. That included the bumper too!

Only I have left mainly is the clutch linkage attachment. We are waiting to get the tub on frame and see what kind of angles we have there before I drill mounting holes.
 
I think the POR15 would work good for that and I've never heard anything bad about raptor liner but I wouldn't use 40 or 60 grit, 80 is what I would use. You don't want to get into the gellcoat to much.
 
Ok new question. Any suggestions on adding heat shield to glass tub?
 
Use Lizard Skin on the bottem.
 
Just my two cents- I acquired an '89 yj tub with frame, junk engine and good tranny for $900. It's likely cheaper and easier to modify a YJ tub than to modify an aftermarket tub.
I've read accounts of where the aftermarket tubs are never square. I don't know how you'd fix that; and for four grand I'd just buy another complete CJ.
 
My jeep has an old AJ tub with a glass grill as well. Seems very strong to me. Doesn't even flex when I stand in it and I am 270lbs. I must admit I am rather impressed with it. But I am also new to educated adult jeepin.
 
Lots of people seem to look at this thread. So here's an updated pic of the body mounted and one piece front attached. Advice to anyone is have lots of 1/8" stainless for thru hole reinforcements and 1/4" stainless for threaded reinforcements. I basically sandwich the fiberglass walls between all mounted items and steel reinforcements.

Overall, I like it. The one piece will take a little body work to fit just right against the tub. It seems about 1/4"-3/8 narrow cross-car than the tub.

 
Bucks86Renegade said:
Just my two cents- I acquired an '89 yj tub with frame, junk engine and good tranny for $900. It's likely cheaper and easier to modify a YJ tub than to modify an aftermarket tub.
I've read accounts of where the aftermarket tubs are never square. I don't know how you'd fix that; and for four grand I'd just buy another complete CJ.
Click to expand...
It may be cheaper but def. not easier, provided you spend a couple hundred more and get one from Willy's Overland in Ohio. They take those chitty San Juan ones from the Philippines and make all the correct mods to it. And they supposedly stand behind their work according to their president. Shipping included would have been right under $4k to my door in Pa.
 
Shell Valley offers complete kits and tubs at a great price, I purchased mine 3 years ago and no issue's, I got mine with the color option and didn't have to pay for all the body work and paint and if it gets scratched it doesn't show. They also offer Jeep bodies in 3 different fiberglass styles, standard fiberglass, fiberglass with Kevlar and a heavy duty. Very happy with mine and my father also purchased one. Talk to Dana at Shell Valley, he is great to work with.
 
Shell valley stuff looks awesome, so the gelcoat never has to be painted? Did you have to drill all the holes and mounting locations as well? Did you opt for the heavier duty or kevlar version?
 
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