Build Thread CJ8 to M170 Build (somewhat)

Build Thread CJ8 to M170 Build (somewhat)

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Posts
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Location
Florida
Vehicle(s)
'84 CJ8; AMC360 w/Holley 600 CFM mechanical secondaries; TF-999 Auto; D-300; D-30F/D-44R, '86 CJ7; 258; T-176; D-30F/D-44R; '80 CJ7 304 Stock; '74 CJ5 304 Stock;
I don't think I have ever posted my build although it reflects in my sig line.

CJ8 Build Thread

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Thanks,
Jim

P.S. I voted 8/180
 
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I remember that one from another site. Not the one its hosted on but another. Anyhow I enjoyed it. How about some recent stuff on it. Love the longer wheelbase Jeep and military theme. :)
 
Click on the CJ8 Build Thread on the 1st post and it will take you to the consecutive post.

Starts on page 1 and page 2 ends w/the newest additions with more to come.

I have to remove the intake (leaking H20) and put another gasket on it.

I did install a engine block heater and on page 2 you can see the pics etc.

I host the street2mud site so I can remember/archive great posts etc.
 
Thanks Pete, The Jeep arrived a few weeks ago. It sat in Florida for a year and the U-POL Raptor bed liner spray looks great, no fading etc. I'm happy. Now back to work.

I rebuilt the 600cfm Holley last week but it is supposed to be 9* by Thursday etc so I might put off the intake till it warms up. I don't have a heater like the one I see in your post, buuuuuuuurrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
 
Well I replaced the leaking intake gasket due to previous owners poor installation.

Removing the intake
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Intake gasket installed by previous owner
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Starting to remove the intake gasket
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Intake removed and flipped for cleaning, notice anything, no RTV etc
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Getting ready to clean the block etc
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Cleaned block not ready to scrape off where the intake goes
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Block cleaned
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Intake cleaned
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Intake installed
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The rubber gasket kept bulging out so I just used RTV after two complete tries. The rear one worked and I did trim them per the directions.
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Look what came out of the intake when I flipped it
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I also need to get a twin stick boot. I have two D-300 stock shift arms. Is there one that will fit out of the 4wdH catalog, or do I need to look else where.

Thanks,
Jim

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Well I bought some new gauges for the build and a Lokar throttle cable. I used Summit gauges because Auto Meter was just to expensive for mechanical gauges. I looked on the box and Summit gauges were made in Twain, go figure. We will see how long they last then go from there. I bought the cluster (cheaper/right color) and will use them separately.

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Mechanical temp gauge
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I couldn't use the radiator neck so I had to use the intake port for the mechanical gauge.
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Mechanical oil gauge
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Volt meter
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Sorry for the blurred pics, weird day w/the light.
 
I also need to get a twin stick boot. I have two D-300 stock shift arms. Is there one that will fit out of the 4wdH catalog, or do I need to look else where.

Thanks,
Jim

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Check out the stuff at JBFAB.NET. I got my kit there and am very happy with it. It's the one NOVAK marks-up and sells on their site. The shift boot is nice and they sell it separate for $27 bucks...

JB Custom Fabrication: Shifter boots

Cheers, :chug:
TrebleHook
 
I had good oil pressure. It was the temp sending unit, I replaced it w/a mechanical gauge, works well.

Oil pressure is 45psi warm.

Is this what you mean or did I miss something.

Thanks,
Jim
 
Installed the Volt meter gauge above the Temp gauge and using the angle like the others it fit straight above the stock temp location. If you do not use the angle set up it will hit the factory air duck and won't fit.
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Bought some dumps 2-1/4" so when I want to be loud I can :)
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Installed steering wheel and painted seat brackets and re-installed.
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Adjusted the passenger door and waiting for the drivers side door striker to come in along w/the factory knobs for the twin stick.
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Painted the 1/2 hard top and installed.
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Installed the seat belts but I need two seat belt extensions 12-18" due to the CJ8 set up and connecting to the roll bar.
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Installed NOS side mirror and I want to powder coat the side mirrors arm black.
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Installed air filter system.

I still have to do the door side panels, rock guards, touch up and paint the doors as well as clean up the inside. Still little things to do.


Also need to bleed brakes, install NOS review mirror, check fuel sending gauge in tank w/a spare I have to see if the gauge registers.

I am taking the exhaust to a guy in town to do. I bought all the stuff and returned it because he can do it for the same price and probably better.

So in the mean time I did drive it around the property here and washed it :)
 
Installed the shift lever seal and adjusted the bands on the TF-999 transmission.

Transmission looks excellent and I did have to drop the valve body.

Refilled tranny pan etc and now she shifts great and no leaks.

Next week, the exhaust.
 
Temp sending unit test:
Temp Sending Unit Test AMC 360 v8 - YouTube

NOTE: I checked the fuel sender again and it doesn't work either. Read below.


1. Still No juice and fuse is good.

2. Have power to Fuel gauge but they both don't work.

3. Did the ground to sender w/Key on to see if the gauge moved, it didn't.

4. Question:
Does some one have a GOOD picture of the dash wiring so I can check mine against it just to make sure.

BTW-I installed manual oil/temp/voltmeter gauge in the dash. But would still like to get the fuel working, if not, then I'll buy one and I guess use the power lead to the original fuel gauge.

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5. OK, After checking everything SEEMS like I have NO juice @ the fuse. I pulled the fuse to check the block and NO JUICE on the prongs.

6. Question:
Does this mean when I plugged it in they may have missed?

Or ?

7. I do after checking (w/the key on) have power to the red wire going to the gauge. Hope it didn't fry it.


Here is an old pic of my dash wiring:
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8. OK, Checked Peaches (1986 CJ7) Jeep and the ACC.LPS (3amp fuse) does not have juice w/a test light and key in the on position. W/key on, the red wire going to her fuel gauge is hot....... SAME AS MINE.

9. I noted that she has a Purple wire w/a orange stripe going to her temp gauge whereas MINE has a purple wire w/a white stripe (1984 CJ8).

10. I'll check tomorrow and see if I have a purple wire w/a orange stripe for the temp.

11. What I can't figure out is why w/the Key one the ACC.LPS on both Jeeps w/the fuse removed has no power.

12. Also, I did pull the wire apart @ the tank and no power w/a test light @ the plug in going to the tank.
 
OK, did some testing and although I do have power @ the red wire I am not getting results as per the write up. And I am way above OHMS on A to I = 50ohms. A to S/S to I = nothing. I do have good grounds on the speedo and all over the Jeep as I have added a bunch of grounds and a dash ground directly from the battery.

** I think my best bet (since I have mechanical gauges) is just to buy a fuel gauge and install it using the RED wire as my HOT and the pink going to the sender.

Reason, I'm not so sure about these after market CJ gauge speedo inserts UNLESS you guys think they are decent.

Please let me know what you have found using these after market CJ insert gauges.

Thanks,
Jim
 
I just OHMed out the PINK wire from the gauge to the tank connection @ the frame and it did OHM out so what i think I'm gonna do is buy a fuel gauge (correct ohms needed in the gauge) and use the RED feed wire and the PINK to the tank. Hopefully that should work.
 

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